Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream

Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream
3.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
5.8 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.8 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.7Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream:

  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.7 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Basic moisturizer for oily skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Rather humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.8 out of 10 and a moderate humectancy of 5.8 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%).

This product, when used alone as a moisturizer, can provide light humectant hydration in a fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. This could work for people with oily skin who need a basic level of hydration.

Since it contains a moderate amount of humectants, it can also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Some anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.7 out of 10.

It contains 3 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈0.3%),
     a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).
  • Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈0.3%),
     or Vitamin C, a popular ingredient, yet with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy, as confirmed by a single clinical study involving 20 participants (Humbert et al.). This study showed that a cream with a relatively high concentration of 5% ascorbic acid reduced the average wrinkle depth by 7% after 6 months of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without ascorbic acid).
Among others, Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream also contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Adenosine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, and Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Citrate
Function:
Origin:
Isononyl Isononanoate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol Denat.
Function:
Origin:
Steareth-21
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Function:
Origin:
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Cyclohexasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Steareth-2
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Iris Pallida Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
t-Butyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Cellulose Gum
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
PEG-8
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
Chitosan
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Glycolic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Oleate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Behentrimonium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Isopropyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Acetic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Angelica Archangelica Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Maltodextrin
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Sclerotium Gum
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
5.8
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.6
3.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 5.8 10
5.8
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.6 20
1.8
3.0
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 5.8 10
5.8
All humectants
5.8
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 3.6 20
1.8
All occlusives
3.6
3.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
1.5 /10 5 0.3 0.1
2.5 /10 5 0.3 0.1
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.7
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Glycolic Acid
0.1
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbic Acid
0.1
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.7
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.1 3 No
All antioxidants
2.1
Ascorbic Acid
0.3
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
0.3
BHT
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.9 5 No
All soothing
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %55
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Sodium Citrate
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Sodium CitrateA salt of citric acid that has a salty and tart flavor and is used as a fragrance. It is mildly basic, meaning that its addition to a skincare product can adjust the pH upward.
Isononyl Isononanoate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Isononyl IsononanoateAn ester of a branched fatty acid with a branched fatty alcohol. It is an easily spreadable emollient that has a silky, dry, non-greasy feel on the skin.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Alcohol Denat.
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains additives that make it unsafe to consume. It is mainly used as a solvent and an antimicrobial agent. A major drawback to alcohol denat. is that it dries out the skin.

Steareth-21
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Steareth-21One of several emulsifiers in the 'steareth' group that helps oils and water mix, especially in highly acidic emulsions. It also offers a cleansing effect to the skin.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A polymeric ingredient that works best in water-based formulas to create gel textures. It helps to stabilize emulsions and control viscosity.
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %1
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Cyclohexasiloxane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CyclohexasiloxaneA clear silicone fluid with very low viscosity that is commonly used as a solvent and emollient. It has excellent spreadability, rubs in quickly, and leaves a silky smooth after-feel on the skin.
Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bifida Ferment LysateA mixture of probiotic bacteria. According to the patent holder, it contains enzymes that are able to repair damaged DNA in skin cells. A single study confirms that it is able to reduce skin sensitivity.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Steareth-2
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Steareth-2A waxy, naturally derived or synthetic emulsifier that can handle extreme formula conditions such as a low pH. It offers emulsifying properties to a formula by helping oils and water to mix.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA polymeric ingredient that creates lightweight and refreshing gel textures. It also works as a viscosity controlling agent.
Iris Pallida Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Iris Pallida Root Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilAn occlusive moisturizing oil expressed from soybeans. It does not leave an oily feeling on the skin due to its low content of saturated fatty acids. Glycine soja oil contains emollient fatty acids and a significant amount of antioxidants.
Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlcoholAn effective antimicrobial ingredient that kills bacteria, fungi, and even some viruses. It is also an excellent solvent and astringent. Alcohol helps to create lighter and less viscous products. It can, however, be dehydrating and skin-sensitizing.
t-Butyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
t-Butyl Alcohol
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Cellulose Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cellulose GumA polymer that is derived from its namesake, cellulose, which is plant-based. It has many formula-helper benefits, including thickening and product stabilization.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

PEG-8
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-8A synthetic liquid that serves as a humectant. It also works as a solvent because of its ability to dissolve a wide range of ingredients.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
Chitosan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ChitosanA film-forming polysaccharide derived from the shells of shrimp, crabs, and other crustaceans. It is a very special ingredient that is used to form protective films on wounds in order to promote wound healing.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Glycolic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycolic Acid

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Sorbitan Oleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan OleateA vegetable-based ingredient that stabilizes mixtures of oil and water. Sorbitan oleate serves primarily as an emulsifier that produces water-in-oil emulsions.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Behentrimonium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Behentrimonium Chloride
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Potassium Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium PhosphateA salt of phosphoric acid that normally acts as a weak base.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed ExtractAn antioxidant and emollient extract derived from coffee beans. It has been proven to improve collagen and elastin production in the skin. A small clinical study tested the anti-aging effects of coffee berry extract, and the results were very promising.
Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Isopropyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Isopropyl AlcoholA synthetic solvent that thins out products and negates unwanted foaming behavior.
Acetic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetic Acid
Angelica Archangelica Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Angelica Archangelica Root Extract
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract
Maltodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MaltodextrinA formula helper manufactured from starch. It has a sweet flavor and is often used in rinse-off products to support their foaming structure. Maltodextrin is also used to stabilize emulsions and to absorb and bind other ingredients in the formula.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium Aluminum SilicateA naturally occurring clay that is hygroscopic, which means that it easily absorbs water. This ingredient is thus commonly used as an absorbent and emulsion stabilizer. It also modifies slip by improving the spreadability of the products it is used in.
Lactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Ascorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbic Acid

Also known as vitamin C, this multi-benefit ingredient has proven anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-pigmentation efficacy. It degrades easily when exposed to air and light, so it requires proper packaging to maintain its stability.

Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclerotium GumA thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Sorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbic AcidAn organic acid that can be naturally found in the berries of the Mountain ash, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It is used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent, protecting a skincare product from spoiling.