Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel

Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel
5.1
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers

Review

Results you may expect from using Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel has an anti-wrinkle rating of 5.0 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel has a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.2 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈7.5%) and Propylene Glycol (est. ≈3.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 5.0 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinal (est. ≈0.05%),
 also known as retinaldehyde, a potent ingredient of the retinoid group, with confirmed anti-wrinkle capabilities.
 
Among others, Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel also contains Retinyl Palmitate, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Retinyl Palmitate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Skin soothing

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Sesderma Azelac Moisturizing Gel is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (est. ≈5.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
Water
7.5
Propanediol
5
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
3
Propylene Glycol
2.5
Polysorbate 20
2
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
1.5
Lecithin
1.3
Triethanolamine
1
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
0.3
Alcohol
0.3
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
0.3
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
0.3
Azelaic Acid
0.3
Benzyl Salicylate
0.3
C13-14 Isoparaffin
0.3
Cetylpyridinium Chloride
0.3
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
0.3
Citronellol
0.3
Ethylhexylglycerin
0.3
Hydrochloric Acid
0.3
Hydrogenated Lecithin
0.3
Laureth-7
0.3
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
0.3
Linalool
0.3
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.3
Mica
0.3
Niacin
0.3
Panthenol
0.3
Pantolactone
0.3
Fragrance
0.3
Phenoxyethanol
0.3
Phytosphingosine HCl
0.3
Potassium Sorbate
0.05
Retinal
0.3
Retinyl Palmitate
0.3
Silybum Marianum Extract
0.3
Sodium Chloride
0.3
Sodium Cholate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Sodium Hydroxide
0.3
Tin Oxide
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Tranexamic Acid
0.3
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Triethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Benzyl Salicylate
Function:
Origin:
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Function:
Origin:
Cetylpyridinium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citronellol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Hydrochloric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Laureth-7
Function:
Origin:
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Linalool
Function:
Origin:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Mica
Function:
Origin:
Niacin
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Pantolactone
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Phytosphingosine HCl
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Retinal
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Silybum Marianum Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Cholate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Tin Oxide
Function:
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Tocopherol
Function:
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Tranexamic Acid
Function:
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Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
13.5
7.5
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 13.5 10
10.0
7.5
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
7.5
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 13.5 10
10
All humectants
13.5
7.5
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
5 /10 0.05 0.05 5
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
5
Retinal
5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
5 /10
when present at, %
0.05
in this formula, est. %
0.05
Retinyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.2 3 No
All antioxidants
1.2
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.3
Silybum Marianum Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 6.2 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
6.2
5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Propanediol
Est. %7.5
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Est. %5
Function
Origin
Potassium Azeloyl DiglycinateA modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid.
Propylene Glycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)One of two the most commonly used mineral sunscreens. It can absorb UV light, including UVB – which causes burning, tanning, and even skin cancer. Also used as a colorant, titanium dioxide gives a product a bright white color.
Lecithin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Triethanolamine
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
TriethanolamineA clear, colorless, and highly viscous liquid, this ingredient is an excellent pH adjuster. When it is necessary to neutralize an acidic solution or to generally increase the pH of a product, triethanolamine is a common choice.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA polymeric ingredient that creates lightweight and refreshing gel textures. It also works as a viscosity controlling agent.
Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlcoholAn effective antimicrobial ingredient that kills bacteria, fungi, and even some viruses. It is also an excellent solvent and astringent. Alcohol helps to create lighter and less viscous products. It can, however, be dehydrating and skin-sensitizing.
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate CopolymerA synthetic ingredient that forms a gel when mixed with water. It can thus thicken and stabilize a product.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Benzyl Salicylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Benzyl SalicylateA fragrance ingredient with a sweet, floral, and slightly balsamic scent. It is one of the twenty-six fragrances that are considered allergens according to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), and so its use is restricted.
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
C13-14 IsoparaffinA lightweight petroleum derivative. It is a very thin liquid that functions as an emollient and a solvent for other liquids (such as thicker oils or silicones).
Cetylpyridinium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetylpyridinium Chloride
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root ExtractAn extract derived from chicory roots. It contains a large amount of humectant moisturizing polysaccharides and oligosaccharides.
Citronellol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CitronellolA fragrant compound found naturally in many essential oils (mainly lemongrass). It can have a lemon or a rose scent. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid products with citronellol, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Hydrochloric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrochloric Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated LecithinA version of plain lecithin that has been saturated with hydrogen atoms. This ingredient can be derived from plants, like soy or sunflower, from egg yolks, or made synthetically. Its major function is to emulsify water and oils.
Laureth-7
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Laureth-7A mild but effective functional ingredient. It can emulsify (efficiently mix water and oil) without needing too much in a formula.
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LinaloolA fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilA fragrant and antioxidant essential tea tree oil praised for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. Tea tree oil helps to treat acne, inflamed skin, and small wounds. It might, however, cause allergies and skin irritations.
Mica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MicaA mineral powder made up of silicates with several functions (the main one being as a colorant). It has a shimmery appearance, making it highly desirable in certain cosmetic products. Mica also helps the product to apply more smoothly.
Niacin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
NiacinAn active form of vitamin B3 that is used to support and restore the healthy appearance of the skin, although it is less effective than Niacinamide.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Pantolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PantolactoneA vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Phytosphingosine HCl
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phytosphingosine HCl
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Retinal
Est. %0.05
Function
Origin
Retinal

A potent ingredient of the retinoid group with confirmed anti-wrinkle capabilities.

Retinyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Retinyl PalmitateAn esterified form of retinol – it combines retinol and palmitic acid into one molecule. Retinyl palmitate is less irritating than retinol but also much less effective in its anti-aging and acne-reducing effects.
Silybum Marianum Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Silybum Marianum ExtractAn extract from the seeds of the milk thistle. It is a powerful antioxidant that is able to protect the skin from UV-induced damage.
Sodium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.

Sodium Cholate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Cholate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Tin Oxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tin OxideA multi-functional mineral that increases the physical space a product takes up, increases the viscosity of liquid products, and, when used as an opacifying agent, makes a transparent or translucent product become opaque or solid in color.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Tranexamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tranexamic AcidA synthetic amino acid that is used as an astringent to stop the bleeding from small cuts. It also has proven anti-pigment and redness-reducing effects.
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ ExtractAn emollient extract obtained from the germ part of the wheat grain. It contains proteins, fatty acids, vitamins E and B, as well as various other antioxidants. It has been claimed to have anti-pigment activity.