Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Review

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum
5.3
/ 10
Moisturizing
6.9 Humectancy icon Humectancy
3.7 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Review

Does Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum has to offer:
 
  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.3 out of 10.
  • Modest anti-wrinkle efficacy: Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Key Benefits of Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum:
 

Lightweight Moisturizer Well-Suited for Combination and Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.3 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Rather humectant. It has a high humectancy of 6.9 out of 10, primarily due to the substantial concentration of Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈2.0%), and a moderate occlusivity of 3.7 out of 10, mainly due to the significant content of Squalane (est. ≈6.0%).

This type of moisturizer is well-suited for people with combination and oily skin who want significant hydration in a relatively lightweight, non-greasy formula. It combines a substantial amount of humectants with a limited amount of occlusive to enhance moisturizing efficacy without feeling too heavy.

This product may also be an option for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures, as it balances significant moisturizing potential with a relatively lightweight texture.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to combination and oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Modest Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum has a modest level of anti-wrinkle efficacy, rated 2.5 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinol (est. ≈0.1%), 
 the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
 
Among others, Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum also contains contains Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Beta-Glucan, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum to your skincare routine:
 

May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Retinol

This product contains retinol, which offers powerful anti-wrinkle benefits. The mechanism behind retinol’s action is boosting cell turnover. This process exposes new, more delicate skin, making it more vulnerable to sun damage.

As a result, using products with retinol may increase the skin's sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

To protect the skin, dermatologists recommend applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 throughout the duration of retinol treatment, along with avoiding direct sun exposure. Retinol should be used at night, as it is sensitive to sunlight and can lose its potency when exposed to UV rays.

Please always check the manufacturer's instructions for using the retinol-containing products, either on their website or product label.

Pros & Cons of Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing well-suited for combination and oily skin
  • Also an option for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing enhancement, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Offers modest anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons: 

  • May increase skin photosensitivity due to retinol

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Hexyldecanol
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyacetophenone
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Function:
Origin:
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Function:
Origin:
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Function:
Origin:
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
Function:
Origin:
Abies Sibirica Oil
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Glucan
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxystearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Isostearate
Function:
Origin:
Laureth-23
Function:
Origin:
Trideceth-6 Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Benzyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Linalool
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
6.9
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
7.5
6.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 6.9 10
6.9
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 7.5 20
3.7
6.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 6.9 10
6.9
All humectants
6.9
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 7.5 20
3.7
All occlusives
7.5
6.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Beta-Glucan
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.5 3 No
All antioxidants
2.5
Hydroxyacetophenone
1
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Beta-Glucan
0.3
BHT
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.9 5 No
All soothing
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Squalane
Est. %6
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Hexyldecanol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
HexyldecanolAn oil-like ingredient (ester) that is more stable and easy to incorporate than some other oil-based emollients. It is used in water-free and stick products.
Propanediol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %1
Function
Origin
HydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateThe newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf ExtractA soothing and astringent extract derived from the fragrant, spicy leaves of rosemary. It has strong antioxidant properties. Rosemary extract can reduce signs of inflammation and also acts as an emollient and antimicrobial agent.
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower OilA fragrant essential oil with a distinct, rose-like scent derived from rose geranium. It is widely used in aromatherapy and massage therapy to ease tension. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood OilA rare and expensive fragrant essential oil obtained from the Brazilian rosewood.
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf OilAn essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Eucalyptus globulus, a tall, evergreen, Australian tree with waxy leaves. It mostly consists of cineole – which has potent antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity.
Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Santalum Album (Sandalwood) OilA fragrant essential oil derived from sandalwood trees.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran ExtractAn extract from rice bran, the brown outer part of the rice kernel. It contains emollient fatty acids and antioxidants such as tocopherols (vitamin E) and γ-oryzanol.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) ExtractAn emollient extract derived from sunflower seeds that is packed with skin-benefiting ingredients such as squalene, phytosterols, phospholipids, amino acids, and antioxidant vitamin E.
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cupressus Sempervirens OilAn essential oil with a woody and piny aroma that is obtained from the twigs and leaves of the Italian cypress.
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
Abies Sibirica Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Abies Sibirica Oil
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Beta-Glucan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-GlucanA special polysaccharide obtained from cereals, mushrooms, yeast, bacteria, and some species of seaweed. It is a promising anti-wrinkle, wound healing, antioxidant, and moisturizing ingredient.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Cetyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl PalmitateA moisturizing occlusive and emollient wax ester that consists of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid. In nature, cetyl palmitate is found, and was first identified, in spermaceti, a waxy substance from inside the skull of the sperm whale.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Hydroxystearic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxystearic AcidA strongly emollient and occlusive saturated fatty acid isolated from castor oil.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Sorbitan Isostearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan IsostearateA mild yet powerful emulsifier primarily utilized to produce water-in-oil emulsions. It helps to create a particularly rich and substantial emulsion.
Laureth-23
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Laureth-23Laureth-23 is a strong emulsifier that is perfect for bringing oils into water-based products. It can be used to mix fragrance or to add to shampoos. It plays nicely with other emulsifiers and ingredients, and can show synergy when used with other emulsifiers of the same type like Laureth-7.
Trideceth-6 Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trideceth-6 Phosphate
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A polymeric ingredient that works best in water-based formulas to create gel textures. It helps to stabilize emulsions and control viscosity.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Benzyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Benzyl Alcohol

A multifunctional ingredient that is supplied as a clear, colorless liquid. Its main function is as a flavoring agent and fragrance. It also acts as a broad-spectrum preservative, solvent, and viscosity-controlling agent that thins the product.

Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LinaloolA fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.