Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 Review

Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30
3.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
6.4 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
30
SPF icon
SPF
Review

Does Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 has to offer:
 
  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.2 out of 10.
  • Moderate to high sun protection for daily outdoor activities

Key Benefits of Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 3.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a high humectancy of 6.4 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Moderate to high sun protection for daily outdoor activities

With an SPF of 30, Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 provides moderate to high sun protection, making it suitable for daily use during moderate sun exposure, such as commuting or light outdoor activities.

This level of SPF offers excellent defense against UVB rays, blocking up to 97% of harmful radiation. When labeled as broad-spectrum, these products also protect against UVA rays, which are responsible for skin aging and hyperpigmentation.

For optimal protection, choose products labeled broad-spectrum to ensure defense against both UVA rays, which contribute to skin aging and pigmentation, and UVB rays that cause sunburn.

This level of SPF works well for skin types mildly prone to sunburn. It is particularly suitable for low-to-moderate UV index environments and non-tropical climates. However, it is not recommended for prolonged outdoor exposure or intense UV conditions. Reapplication every two hours is essential to maintain effectiveness.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30 to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing enhancement for any skincare routine
  • Provides moderate to high sun protection, suitable for daily use during moderate sun exposure and light outdoor activities in non-tropical climates

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer
  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Homosalate
Function:
Origin:
Octocrylene
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Octisalate
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Avobenzone
Function:
Origin:
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Function:
Origin:
VP/Eicosene Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate
Function:
Origin:
Saccharide Isomerate
Function:
Origin:
Tapioca Starch
Function:
Origin:
Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Function:
Origin:
Terpineol
Function:
Origin:
Thymol
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Behenyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Citrate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyacetophenone
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Linalool
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Geraniol
Function:
Origin:
Citronellol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
6.4
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 6.4 10
6.4
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
3.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 6.4 10
6.4
All humectants
6.4
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.2 3 No
All antioxidants
1.2
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Hydroxyacetophenone
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 1.2 5 No
All soothing
1.2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Homosalate
Est. %9
Function
Origin
HomosalateA synthetic chemical UV filter that protects against harmful UVB radiation.
Octocrylene
Est. %6
Function
Origin
OctocryleneA synthetic compound that protects skin against harmful ultraviolet light.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Octisalate
Est. %3
Function
Origin
OctisalateA UVB sunscreen also known as ethylhexyl salicylate. It is normally paired with UVA sunscreens to provide broad-spectrum protection. Octisalate also protects other ingredients, like colorants and antioxidants, from deterioration due to exposure to UV light.
Silica
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Avobenzone
Est. %2
Function
Origin
AvobenzoneA popular sunscreen that protects against UVA rays, which cause premature aging and skin cancer. Avobenzone degrades after about 30 minutes of sun exposure and becomes ineffective. It is therefore often paired with UV-filter stabilizers such as octocrylene.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateA synthetic emollient ester. It works to improve the appearance of the skin by filling in the microcracks on the surface, thereby making the skin appear softer and smoother. It imparts a lightweight, velvety feel.
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Butyloctyl SalicylateA synthetic emollient and solvent. It is primarily used as a carrier oil to disperse minerals in, including pigments and sunscreen minerals. It can also absorb UV light, thus boosting the SPF of sunscreen products.
VP/Eicosene Copolymer
Est. %1
Function
Origin
VP/Eicosene Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate
Saccharide Isomerate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Saccharide IsomerateA naturally-derived humectant that provides moisturization at low levels and is less sticky than other humectants like glycerin.
Tapioca Starch
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tapioca StarchTapioca starch is used to absorb excess oil and provide slip for dry powder formulations.
Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit OilAn essential oil derived from cilantro seeds. It has a warm, nutty, and spicy aroma and contains fragrant linalool, borneol, and pinene.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateThe most researched derivative of vitamin C. It boosts collagen synthesis, thereby improving skin structure and elasticity. SAP is effective in the treatment of inflamed acne lesions and has a weak but positive effect on pigmentation issues.
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark ExtractA potent, soothing extract from the bark of the white willow. It has potent anti-inflammatory effects due to its salicin content. Tannins from the willow bark extract have astringent effects and can aid in the skin’s healing process.
Terpineol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Terpineol
Thymol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Thymol
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

An essential oil derived from the peels of the sweet orange. It is commonly used as a fragrance because of its pleasant, citrusy scent. The main constituent of the essential oil is limonene (up to 96%).

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium Cetyl PhosphateA powerful emulsifier that can even mix particularly problematic water and oil blends. It is also a surfactant perfect for cleansing products that effectively rinse off oil and dirt particles from the surface of the skin.
Arachidyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Arachidyl AlcoholA non-drying fatty alcohol that functions as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controlling agent. It also produces a mattifying effect when applied in a skincare product onto the skin.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Behenyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Behenyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol with emollient properties. It is used as a co-emulsifier and thickener and tends to result in a product with a smooth and creamy application texture.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Arachidyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Arachidyl GlucosideA mild cleanser and emulsifier that helps oil and water to mix and form emulsions.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA chelating agent that disables harmful heavy metal ions present in skincare.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Sodium Citrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium CitrateA salt of citric acid that has a salty and tart flavor and is used as a fragrance. It is mildly basic, meaning that its addition to a skincare product can adjust the pH upward.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LinaloolA fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Geraniol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Geraniol

A fragrant, volatile, plant-based, liquid chemical that can be naturally found in many essential oils (specifically rose, palmarosa, citronella). It has a rose-like scent. It is a potential irritant and may cause an allergic reaction in some people.

Citronellol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citronellol

A fragrant compound found naturally in many essential oils (mainly lemongrass). It can have a lemon or a rose scent. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid products with citronellol, or at least do a patch test before using it.