Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum

Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
0.3 Humectancy icon Humectancy
10.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
0.1Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum:

  • Strong occlusive moisturizing. This exceptionally occlusive moisturizer, ideal for dry and very dry skin, has a moderate moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10, impaired by the lack of humectants.
  • Little anti-wrinkle effect: Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 0.1 out of 10, so you may expect a positive, although insignificant, effect on wrinkles.

Moisturizer with the right occlusivity for dry to very dry skin, ideally to be used with extra humectants

According to CreamScan analysis, Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more occlusive. It has a low Humectancy of 0.3 out of 10 and a maximum Occlusivity of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Dimethicone (est. ≈22.0%) and Phenyl Trimethicone (est. ≈4.0%).

This type of product, when used as a standalone moisturizer, can deliver an exceptional level of occlusive hydration that is adequate for dry to very skin. The occlusive profile of Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum suggests a rich, thick texture, making it perfectly suited for dry skin.

However, it contains a low level of humectants, and people with dry skin would definitely benefit from adding more humectants to their moisturizing routine beyond what this product offers. If this is your only moisturizer, it may be worth including a humectant-rich product, such as a serum, in your skincare routine.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Little anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum has a minimal anti-wrinkle rating of 0.1 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈0.3%), 
 or Vitamin C, a popular ingredient, yet with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy, as confirmed by a single clinical study involving 20 participants (Humbert et al.). This study showed that a cream with a relatively high concentration of 5% ascorbic acid reduced the average wrinkle depth by 7% after 6 months of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without ascorbic acid).
 
Among others, Hourglass N 28 Primer Serum also contains contains Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
40
22
11
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Dimethiconol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
Function:
Origin:
Phenyl Trimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Geranium Maculatum Oil
Function:
Origin:
Dicapryl Succinate
Function:
Origin:
Octyldodecanol
Function:
Origin:
Panthenyl Triacetate
Function:
Origin:
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Function:
Origin:
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
Function:
Origin:
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
Function:
Origin:
Styrax Benzoin Resin Extract
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Function:
Origin:
Tridecyl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Sphingolipids
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Function:
Origin:
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Function:
Origin:
Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Function:
Origin:
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Function:
Origin:
PEG-8
Function:
Origin:
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
29.9
22.0
4.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 0.3 10
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 29.9 20
10.0
22.0
4.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
0.3
All humectants 0.3 10
0.3
All humectants
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
22
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 29.9 20
10.0
All occlusives
29.9
22.0
4.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
2.5 /10 5 0.3 0.1
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0.1
Ascorbic Acid
0.1
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Retinyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.1 3 No
All antioxidants
2.1
Ascorbic Acid
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
0.3
Tocopheryl Linoleate
0.3
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
0.3
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.9 5 No
All soothing
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %40
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Dimethicone
Est. %22
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Dimethiconol
Est. %11
Function
Origin
DimethiconolA synthetic dimethicone with rich, non-tacky emolliency. It features the typical sensorial profile of silicones, with high spreadability and a luxurious, oil-free after-feel. Dimethiconol can also serve as an antifoaming agent.
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Phenyl TrimethiconeA silicone fluid that is used as an occlusive moisturizer. It applies smoothly to the skin and reduces the tack associated with organic oils.
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) OilAn essential oil derived from common, or true, lavender. It is used in skincare for its lovely, calming scent. Like all essential oils, however, it may cause a contact skin allergy in more sensitive individuals.
Geranium Maculatum Oil
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Geranium Maculatum OilAn essential oil obtained from the above-ground parts of wild geranium. It mainly consists of volatile fragrant compounds that give it its characteristic rose-like scent.
Dicapryl Succinate
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Dicapryl Succinate
Octyldodecanol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
OctyldodecanolAn emollient fatty alcohol that spreads easily without leaving a greasy residue on the skin. It is also used as a solvent and dispersing agent for other ingredients.
Panthenyl Triacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Panthenyl Triacetate
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Octyldodecyl MyristateA luxurious feeling ester that remains light and silky despite its richness.
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf OilA fragrant essential oil distilled from the flower buds of cloves (a culinary spice). It contains an essential oil which is mainly comprised of eugenol – a compound with a sweet, gingerbread-like scent.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

An essential oil derived from the peels of the sweet orange. It is commonly used as a fragrance because of its pleasant, citrusy scent. The main constituent of the essential oil is limonene (up to 96%).

Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Leaf Oil
Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Amyris Balsamifera Bark OilA fragrant oil derived from the bark of the Amyris tree, also known as torchwood. It gives off a relaxing, woody scent and sometimes substitutes sandalwood oil.
Styrax Benzoin Resin Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Styrax Benzoin Resin Extract
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Retinyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Retinyl PalmitateAn esterified form of retinol – it combines retinol and palmitic acid into one molecule. Retinyl palmitate is less irritating than retinol but also much less effective in its anti-aging and acne-reducing effects.
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateAn emollient blend of a compound used in the production of lubricants and caprylic and capric fatty acids.
Tridecyl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tridecyl Stearate
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood OilA rare and expensive fragrant essential oil obtained from the Brazilian rosewood.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil

A fragrant essential oil extracted from the rind or peel of a lemon. It is mainly comprised of limonene (up to 70%) and has a fresh, citrusy scent. Lemon peel oil may cause a sun-induced skin rash in people with a sensitivity towards citrus fruits.

Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf OilAn essential oil distilled from the leaves of rosemary. It is used as a fragrance in skincare and has a spicy, earthy, camphoraceous scent. It also has antioxidant properties according to some research.
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Sphingolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sphingolipids
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Est. %0.2
Function
Origin
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

A fragrant essential oil obtained from the flowers of the tropical ylang-ylang tree. It is a popular ingredient in skincare, as well as in aromatherapy, perfumes, and the food industry for its sweet, floral, slightly fruity, jasmine-like scent.

Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Borago Officinalis Seed OilA fatty emollient and occlusive oil expressed from the seeds of borage flowers. It has a uniquely high content of a rare gamma-linolenic acid and also contains squalene, phytosterols, and vitamin E.
Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) OilAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient fatty oil expressed from the seeds of a yellow-flowered plant which often opens its flowers in the evening (hence the name). It is light and suitable for problematic, eczematous, and inflammation-prone skin.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Seed OilAn occlusive fatty oil extracted from the seeds of the tea bush that contains emollient oleic and linoleic acids, as well as vitamin E.
Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed OilAn emollient and occlusive fatty oil expressed from American hazelnuts. It mainly contains unsaturated fatty acids. Other beneficial compounds include vitamin E, squalene, and phytosterols. Phenolics and lignans act as astringents.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilA liquid plant wax, also known as Jojoba oil, pressed from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis. These seeds can contain up to 50% of liquid wax. It is used as an occlusive moisturizer, emollient, and emulsifier.
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed OilDerived from the seeds of the famous Hawaiian kukui nut tree, this oil is a great emollient and occlusive moisturizer that is rich in fatty acids.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

A famous olive oil widely used in skincare as an emollient and occlusive moisturizer. It contains mainly unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidant flavonoids, and oleuropeins. Olive oil is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.

Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosa Canina Seed OilRosehip oil derived from the seeds of the dog rose shrubs. It contains mainly linoleic and linolenic emollient fatty acids (and other polyunsaturated fatty acids), as well as a very high amount of antioxidant carotenoids.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) OilAn emollient and occlusive oil derived from sweet almonds. It has a favorable fatty acid composition (mainly oleic and linoleic acids), and a high content of vitamin E. Almond oil is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.
PEG-8
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-8A synthetic liquid that serves as a humectant. It also works as a solvent because of its ability to dissolve a wide range of ingredients.
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pelargonium Graveolens OilA fragrant essential oil with a rose-like scent obtained from the leaves of rose geranium. It is sometimes added to a more expensive rose oil in order to produce larger volumes.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Ascorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbic Acid

Also known as vitamin C, this multi-benefit ingredient has proven anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-pigmentation efficacy. It degrades easily when exposed to air and light, so it requires proper packaging to maintain its stability.

Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.