Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair
6.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
2.5 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
$$$$

Review

Results you may expect from using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair:

  • Significant moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Highly moisturizing: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair has a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 2.5 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinol (est. ≈0.1%), 
 the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
 
Among others, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin soothing

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
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Ratings

All humectants
18.2
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
5.0
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 18.2 10
10.0
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 5.0 20
2.5
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 18.2 10
10
All humectants
18.2
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
2.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 5.0 20
2.5
All occlusives
5.0
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
9
0.3
All antioxidants 9.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
9.3
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
9
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
9
0.3
All soothing 9.3 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
9.3
9
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Est. %9
Function
Origin
A gelatinous juice from Aloe vera leaves that acts as a powerful humectant, emollient, and antioxidant. It contains enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that soothe irritated skin and have wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Est. %3
Function
Origin
An emollient ester that is derived from palm and palm kernel oil and is known for its velvety soft skin feel and excellent spreading properties.
Squalane
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
An occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Cetyl Caprylate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

PEG-8
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic liquid that serves as a humectant. It also works as a solvent because of its ability to dissolve a wide range of ingredients.
Stearic Acid
Est. %1
Function
Origin
A saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
C14-22 Alcohols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A naturally-derived emulsion stabilizer that has a light feel. It is not a drying alcohol, in fact the emulsions it helps create can make the skin feel soft and cushioned.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Cetyl Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A silicone-based emollient and occlusive ingredient that provides slip and adds shine to formulas.
Xylitylglucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An emollient extract from rice bran, the brown outer part of the rice kernel. It includes palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acids, and antioxidants such as tocopherols and γ-oryzanol.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The most researched derivative of vitamin C. It boosts collagen synthesis, thereby improving skin structure and elasticity. SAP is effective in the treatment of inflamed acne lesions and has a weak but positive effect on pigmentation issues.
Aminomethyl Propanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic ingredient that helps to adjust the pH of a product to make it less acidic.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Also known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Ethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Lactamide MEA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
This surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A powerful emulsifier that can even mix particularly problematic water and oil blends. It is also a surfactant perfect for cleansing products that effectively rinse off oil and dirt particles from the surface of the skin.
Sodium PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
One of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Anhydroxylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A derivative of xylitol, a naturally occurring sugar alcohol. It has humectant moisturizing properties.
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Cetyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A moisturizing occlusive and emollient wax ester that consists of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid. In nature, cetyl palmitate is found, and was first identified, in spermaceti, a waxy substance from inside the skull of the sperm whale.
Citronellol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant compound found naturally in many essential oils (mainly lemongrass). It can have a lemon or a rose scent. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid products with citronellol, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A complex of copper and two amino acids. It may stimulate the production of collagen in the skin because of the supply of copper, thus resulting in anti-wrinkle effects. This, however, has not been confirmed by studies.
Geraniol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant, volatile, plant-based, liquid chemical that can be naturally found in many essential oils (specifically rose, palmarosa, citronella). It has a rose-like scent. It is a potential irritant and may cause an allergic reaction in some people.
Glucose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A simple sugar that is also one of two components of sucrose, or table sugar. It is used as a humectant in skincare products. Glucose is also used to flavor lip care cosmetics because of its mildly sweet taste.
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant essential oil distilled from a lavender hybrid of the two most common lavender species: true lavender and spike lavender. It contains linalool and linalyl acetate as well as eucalyptol and camphor, which altogether give it a cooling, lavender scent.
Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Magnesium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A chloride salt with a bitter taste and the ability to thicken water-in-oil emulsions.
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A derivative of glucose. It is allegedly an activated form of glucose that may be able to serve as an energy source to the skin, although this claim has not been supported by any research.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant essential oil with a distinct, rose-like scent derived from rose geranium. It is widely used in aromatherapy and massage therapy to ease tension. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A small, peptide-like ingredient designed to improve skin firmness and hydration by stimulating the production of proteins and peptidoglycans in the skin.
Xylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An organic compound that is most well-known for its use as a sweetener that also protects your teeth from cavities. Xylitol is used in skincare as a moisturizing humectant and has been shown to improve the protective barrier function of the skin.