Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly Review

Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Review

Does Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈9.0%) and Sodium Hyaluronate (est. ≈2.5%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Sodium Hyaluronate (est. ≈2.5%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract may reduce wrinkles, its efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer
  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
80
9
2.5
2.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Maclura Cochinchinensis Leaf Prenylflavonoids
Function:
Origin:
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Haslea Ostrearia Extract
Function:
Origin:
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Function:
Origin:
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Phenethyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.8
9
2.5
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.8 10
10.0
9
2.5
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
2.5
0.3
All humectants 11.8 10
10
All humectants
11.8
9
2.5
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 6.1 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
6.1
Sodium Hyaluronate
2.5
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract
0.3
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
0.3
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
0.3
Corallina Officinalis Extract
0.3
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
0.3
Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract
0.3
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
0.3
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
0.3
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract
0.3
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 1.8 5 No
All soothing
1.8
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %80
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Carbomer
Est. %2.4
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylhydroxamic AcidA chelating agent used alongside preservatives in order to boost their antimicrobial activity.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract

Derived from lemon peels, this fresh and citrusy extract contains mostly fragrant limonene, but also antioxidant flavonoids and organic acids.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract is the same extract as Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract. It has antioxidant properties and gives a skincare product a fresh orange scent. It also works as a thickener due to its pectin content. Read more about the extract here: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Leaf Oil
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit ExtractA fragrant and flavoring extract derived from vanilla pods. Vanillin is the main compound responsible for its scent and taste. Other compounds present in the vanilla pod are antioxidant and soothin tannins, polyphenols, and free amino acids.
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf OilA fragrant essential oil distilled from the flower buds of cloves (a culinary spice). It contains an essential oil which is mainly comprised of eugenol – a compound with a sweet, gingerbread-like scent.
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Maclura Cochinchinensis Leaf Prenylflavonoids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Maclura Cochinchinensis Leaf Prenylflavonoids
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit ExtractObtained from the fruits of the lowbush blueberry, this purple-blue extract is rich in antioxidant vitamin C and anthocyanins.
Haslea Ostrearia Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Haslea Ostrearia Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melia Azadirachta Leaf ExtractAn antimicrobial and antioxidant extract derived from Neem leaves – an Indian traditional medicine. Neem leaves have been found to possess antibacterial and antifungal activity. It is also a prospective anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melia Azadirachta Flower ExtractAn antioxidant extract derived from the flowers of the Indian lilac, also known as Neem. It is often used in traditional medicine in India. The Neem flower extracts contain limonoids, which are currently under research for their anti-pigment activity.
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Corallina Officinalis ExtractAn extract from red marine alga, Corallina officinalis is used in skincare for its antioxidant properties. It also contains an immense amount of calcium and special, sulfur-containing polysaccharides.
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coccinia Indica Fruit ExtractAn extract derived from the cucumber-like fruits of ivy gourd. It contains a large amount of soothing mucilage as well as some antioxidant carotenoids. It has also been shown that the extract may have some anti-allergy properties.
Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit ExtractAn under-researched extract obtained from the eggplant fruit. Eggplant contains plant pigments called anthocyanins and phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acid, which are excellent antioxidants.
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Flower ExtractAn extract obtained the flowers of Aloe vera – which are a rich source of antioxidant flavonoids (mainly apigenin). It also contains a bit of the emollient mucilage.
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf ExtractAn extract derived from the leaves of Holy Basil, also known as Tulsi, a traditional herb used in Ayurveda medicine. It contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory rosmarinic acid, galic acid, flavonoids, and a sweet-scented essential oil.
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf ExtractA fragrant extract derived from the flowering basil plant that contains essential oil and antioxidants such as terpenes, flavonoids, and vitamin K.
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root ExtractAn extract derived from the thick roots of curcuma (turmeric), a famous yellow spice and a major ingredient in curry powder. It is used in skincare for its proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Phenethyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phenethyl AlcoholA multifunctional ingredient that primarily serves as a preservative. Derived from the Chinese cinnamon tree, it provides broad-spectrum protection for skincare products through its antimicrobial efficacy.
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Sodium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.