Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum
5.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.7 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Does Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.7 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈9.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈6.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, and Gluconolactone. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that Dermalogica Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil (est. ≈2.5%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
C15-19 Alkane
Function:
Origin:
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Trehalose
Function:
Origin:
Poria Cocos Polysaccharide
Function:
Origin:
Papain
Function:
Origin:
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Function:
Origin:
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Terminalia Arjuna Extract
Function:
Origin:
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Phytosterols
Function:
Origin:
Algin
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Phytosteryl Oleate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Serine
Function:
Origin:
Oleic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Inositol
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Carrageenan
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Methylpropanediol
Function:
Origin:
Proline
Function:
Origin:
Xylitol
Function:
Origin:
Calcium Gluconate
Function:
Origin:
Pantolactone
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Aminomethyl Propanol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
27.6
9
6
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.4
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 27.6 10
10.0
9
6
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.4 20
1.7
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
6
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 27.6 10
10
All humectants
27.6
9
6
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 3.4 20
1.7
All occlusives
3.4
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 4.9 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
4.9
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
2.5
Dunaliella Salina Extract
0.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
0.3
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Phytosterols
0.3
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.6 5 No
All soothing
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %55
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Propanediol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

C15-19 Alkane
Est. %3
Function
Origin
C15-19 Alkane
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Salvia Hispanica Seed OilAn oil extracted from Chia seeds. It has a unique ratio of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, making it the richest source of polyunsaturated fatty acids. It also contains antioxidant phytosterols and tocopherols (vitamin E).
Sodium PCA
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Trehalose
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
TrehaloseA sweet-tasting saccharide that can be found in various yeasts and fungi and that is manufactured from starch for cosmetic purposes. It is one of the most popular sugars in skincare and is mainly used for its humectant properties.
Poria Cocos Polysaccharide
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Poria Cocos Polysaccharide
Papain
Est. %1
Function
Origin
PapainAn enzyme that is obtained from papaya fruits. It acts as a mild exfoliant with skin-softening benefits.
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dunaliella Salina ExtractDerived from a species of bright red algae, this extract contains the potent antioxidant beta-carotene, as well as a humectant moisturizing glycerol.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphateOne of the most recent vitamin C derivatives. Although the manufacturer claims it has all the powers of ascorbic acid (e.g., it is collagen-boosting and able to treat hyperpigmentation), this has not been proven in scientific studies.
Terminalia Arjuna Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Terminalia Arjuna Extract
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp ExtractA fungi extract. The mushroom contains various proteins, fiber, and humectant and antioxidant polysaccharides - which help to restore the water and collagen content in the skin.
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Phytosterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhytosterolsA plant-based version of cholesterol that is used for its emollient properties in skincare. The richest sources of phytosterols are corn, rapeseed, and wheat germ oil.
Algin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlginA plant-based ingredient that can form gels when added to water, so it can thicken water-based products. Algin serves as a binding agent, where it helps hold the other ingredients in the product together and prevents them from separating.
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

A fragrant essential oil obtained from pomelo peels - sometimes mislabeled as grapefruit. The high limonene content is responsible for its citrusy scent. It may induce sun allergies in people sensitive to citrus fruits.

Phytosteryl Oleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phytosteryl Oleate
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Serine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SerineA non-essential amino acid, meaning that our body can produce it. It is the largest constituent of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and is used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient.
Oleic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Oleic AcidAn omega-9 fatty acid commonly found in vegetable oils. It is occlusive moisturizing, emollient and emulsifying.
Inositol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
InositolA humectant moisturizing, sugar-like compound that is present in all the cells of the body, but especially the brain. It is manufactured from sugar beets or carob tree pods for skincare purposes.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Betaine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Carrageenan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarrageenanA gum-like thickener derived from a species of red algae called Irish moss. It helps to form a soft film on the skin, and aids in stabilizing product forms.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Methylpropanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethylpropanediolMethylpropanediol is a unique glycol that contains two primary hydroxyl groups. That makes methylpropanediol a powerful humectant and an excellent solvent.
Proline
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ProlineThe best humectant moisturizer of all the amino acids. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and increases hydration in the top layers of the skin. It also has antioxidant activity and helps to heal damaged skin.
Xylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
XylitolAn organic compound that is most well-known for its use as a sweetener that also protects your teeth from cavities. Xylitol is used in skincare as a moisturizing humectant and has been shown to improve the protective barrier function of the skin.
Calcium Gluconate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Calcium GluconateA white crystalline powder that can act as a humectant when dissolved into water. It is also a chelating agent.
Pantolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PantolactoneA vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Aminomethyl Propanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminomethyl PropanolA synthetic ingredient that helps to adjust the pH of a product to make it less acidic.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Gluconolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.