Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream Review

Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream
6.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
2.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
6Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream has to offer:
 
✅ Significant moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.
✅ Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream is effective in minimizing wrinkles.
✅ Soothing: Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
✅ Antioxidant protection

  

Key Benefits of Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream:
 

🔵 Lightweight Moisturizer Perfect for Combination and Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream is highly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 2.4 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propylene Glycol (est. ≈6.0%), Gluconolactone (est. ≈5.0%) and Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%).

This type of moisturizer is ideal for people with combination and oily skin who want maximum hydration in a relatively lightweight, non-greasy formula. It combines a significant amount of humectants with a limited amount of occlusive ingredients to boost moisturizing efficacy without feeling too heavy.

This product may also be a good choice for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures, as it balances significant moisturizing potential with a relatively lightweight texture.

💧 A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to combination and oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

🟣🟣 Significant Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream has a high anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%),
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream also contains contains Gluconolactone and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.
 
While this does not categorically rule out the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were available to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.
 
Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

🍀 Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

🔴 Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Azelaic Acid (est. ≈9.0%) and Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

📌 Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Pros & Cons of Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

🟩 Pros:

✅ When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing perfect for combination and oily skin
✅ Also a good choice for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures
✅ As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
✅ Lightweight texture
Delivers signficant anti-wrinkle efficacy thanks to Niacinamide
✅ Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
✅ Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide
 

⭕ Cons: 

✅ We couldn't find any
   

Summary: Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream

 
Based on the ingredient list analysis, CreamScan AI suggests that Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream
 is specifically effective in treating wrinkles, containing ingredients with solid, robust evidence of anti-wrinkle efficacy.
 

When used alone, it delivers lightweight, humectant-rich moisturizing, perfect for combination and oily skin. It's also a great option for those with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures. As part of a moisturizing routine, it provides a humectant boost, beneficial for all skin types.

Rich in antioxidants, Underated Azelaic Acid 9% GDL 5% Niacinamide 4% Cream helps protect against free radical damage and offers multiple benefits for all skin types, including preventing premature aging, defending against environmental damage, and calming inflammation. This product is also formulated with a high concentration of soothing ingredients, offering the potential to calm and comfort irritated skin. Whether you’re experiencing redness, irritation, or general sensitivity, its soothing properties may help restore balance and provide relief.
 
📌 Fact check. At CreamScan, we are committed to accuracy and fairness. If you spot any errors or something that doesn’t seem right, please click here to let us know. We regularly update the ingredient lists and monitor the latest research on ingredient efficacy to ensure that our information remains as complete and precise as possible. The information provided here is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional advice. We do not guarantee the efficacy or safety of any product, as individual results may vary.

 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
9
6
5
4.2
4.1
4
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
C15-19 Alkane
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Behenyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Stearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Function:
Origin:
Alpha-Arbutin
Function:
Origin:
Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Function:
Origin:
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
17.4
6
5
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
4.8
4.2
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 17.4 10
10.0
6
5
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 4.8 20
2.4
4.2
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
5
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 17.4 10
10
All humectants
17.4
6
5
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
4.2
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 4.8 20
2.4
All occlusives
4.8
4.2
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 4 6
n/a
- 5 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
6
Niacinamide
6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
4
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
5
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.5
Niacinamide
4
Alpha-Arbutin
0.3
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
0.3
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
9
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 14.8 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
14.8
9
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %55
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Propylene Glycol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Gluconolactone
Est. %5
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %4.2
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
C15-19 Alkane
Est. %4.1
Function
Origin
C15-19 Alkane
Niacinamide
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Arachidyl Alcohol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Arachidyl AlcoholA non-drying fatty alcohol that functions as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controlling agent. It also produces a mattifying effect when applied in a skincare product onto the skin.
Behenyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Behenyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol with emollient properties. It is used as a co-emulsifier and thickener and tends to result in a product with a smooth and creamy application texture.
Arachidyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Arachidyl GlucosideA mild cleanser and emulsifier that helps oil and water to mix and form emulsions.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Stearic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Stearic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterA semi-solid, buttery fat extracted from the seeds of the Shea tree that is a wonderful occlusive and emollient ingredient mainly comprised of fatty acids. Shea butter contains a large amount of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds.
Alpha-Arbutin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Alpha-Arbutin
Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root ExtractAn extract derived from the thick roots of curcuma (turmeric), a famous yellow spice and a major ingredient in curry powder. It is used in skincare for its proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilA fragrant and antioxidant essential tea tree oil praised for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. Tea tree oil helps to treat acne, inflamed skin, and small wounds. It might, however, cause allergies and skin irritations.
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark ExtractA potent, soothing extract from the bark of the white willow. It has potent anti-inflammatory effects due to its salicin content. Tannins from the willow bark extract have astringent effects and can aid in the skin’s healing process.
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit ExtractA soothing, cooling, and emollient extract derived from cucumbers. Cucumber has been used in skincare for centuries and is used to treat skin problems such as eye swelling, sunburn, and itchy and irritated skin.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf ExtractA soothing and astringent extract derived from the fragrant, spicy leaves of rosemary. It has strong antioxidant properties. Rosemary extract can reduce signs of inflammation and also acts as an emollient and antimicrobial agent.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Acrylates CopolymerA synthetic polymer that can come in various forms and is often used to create light gel-like textures. Some versions can also create a light film on the skin.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.