SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum

SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum
5.4
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.8 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Does SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.8 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (est. ≈35.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, and Ubiquinone. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables (est. ≈6.0%) and Alpha-Arbutin (est. ≈3.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
35
22
11
6
3
2.9
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.03
Est. %
Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Function:
Origin:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables
Function:
Origin:
Alpha-Arbutin
Function:
Origin:
Isoceteth-20
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Function:
Origin:
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Ergothioneine
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Sericin
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Ubiquinone
Function:
Origin:
Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Aminobutyric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Phytosterols
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Tocotrienols
Function:
Origin:
Squalene
Function:
Origin:
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Behenyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Arachidyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Steareth-10
Function:
Origin:
Steareth-20
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Maltodextrin
Function:
Origin:
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Aminomethyl Propanol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxycitronellal
Function:
Origin:
Linalool
Function:
Origin:
Coumarin
Function:
Origin:
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Function:
Origin:
Geraniol
Function:
Origin:
Isoeugenol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
39.3
35
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 39.3 10
10.0
35
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
35
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 39.3 10
10
All humectants
39.3
35
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
All occlusives
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ubiquinone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
6
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 11.7 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
11.7
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables
6
Alpha-Arbutin
3
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Ubiquinone
0.3
Phytosterols
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Squalene
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media
Est. %35
Function
Origin
Human Fibroblast Conditioned MediaA biotechnological mixture of various skin growth factors. It is thought to be able to stimulate the growth and regeneration of all skin layers, although the use of growth factors in skincare is still controversial.
Water
Est. %22
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Est. %11
Function
Origin
Cetyl EthylhexanoateA clear, pale yellow liquid, that functions as an emollient and a solvent, meaning that it is useful for dissolving oil-soluble ingredients.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables
Alpha-Arbutin
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Alpha-Arbutin
Isoceteth-20
Est. %2.9
Function
Origin
Isoceteth-20A synthetically produced emulsifier and surfactant. It can create foam for mild cleansing or help stabilize oil-in-water emulsions.
Arachidyl Alcohol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Arachidyl AlcoholA non-drying fatty alcohol that functions as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controlling agent. It also produces a mattifying effect when applied in a skincare product onto the skin.
Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterA semi-solid, buttery fat extracted from the seeds of the Shea tree that is a wonderful occlusive and emollient ingredient mainly comprised of fatty acids. Shea butter contains a large amount of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateA lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. According to a recent clinical study, THDA has all the capabilities of regular vitamin C, including anti-wrinkle and anti-pigment activity.
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipalmitoyl HydroxyprolineAn amino acid derivative. It helps with skin moisturization and may have wrinkle-reducing effects.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Ergothioneine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ErgothioneineA naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Hydrolyzed Sericin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Sericin
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Ubiquinone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
UbiquinoneAlso known as Coenzyme Q10, this bright orange antioxidant supports the skin's energy metabolism. It also offers some anti-pigment action. Dietary supplementation of Ubiquinone improves the appearance of wrinkles.
Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate FiltrateA humectant moisturizing ingredient made from Saccharomyces yeast culture that contains various enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and beta-glucan.
Aminobutyric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminobutyric AcidAlso called GABA, this amino acid is emollient and attracts water to the skin’s surface. It may also assist in speeding up the barrier repair process.
Phytosterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhytosterolsA plant-based version of cholesterol that is used for its emollient properties in skincare. The richest sources of phytosterols are corn, rapeseed, and wheat germ oil.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Tocotrienols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocotrienols
Squalene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualeneOne of the main ingredients in the skin’s sebum. It helps to rebuild the natural oily film on the skin’s surface and to prevent transdermal water loss. Squalene is listed among common comedogenic ingredients by acne.org.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran WaxA solid, strongly emollient, and occlusive moisturizing wax obtained from rice bran oil. It is also used as a formula helper.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Oleifera Leaf ExtractAn emollient extract derived from the leaves of the Tea-oil Camellia, which is native to Southeast Asia. It contains astringent and wound-healing tannins that create a tightening feeling on the skin and can speed up the healing process of small cuts.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl PalmitateA rich emollient without the oily after-feel, making it a popular replacement for mineral oil. It is derived from natural sources such as palm oil and palm kernel oil. Ethylhexyl palmitate is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Silica Dimethyl SilylateA synthetic 'filler' powder primarily used as a formula helper. It is added in skincare products to adjust their consistency and thickness.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Behenyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Behenyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol with emollient properties. It is used as a co-emulsifier and thickener and tends to result in a product with a smooth and creamy application texture.
Arachidyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Arachidyl GlucosideA mild cleanser and emulsifier that helps oil and water to mix and form emulsions.
Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Steareth-10
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Steareth-10
Steareth-20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Steareth-20A white to light brown reaction product of a clear gas and stearyl alcohol. Like the other steareth ingredients, steareth-20 is a waxy emulsifier that can help to form a stable emulsion, even in extreme conditions.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Maltodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MaltodextrinA formula helper manufactured from starch. It has a sweet flavor and is often used in rinse-off products to support their foaming structure. Maltodextrin is also used to stabilize emulsions and to absorb and bind other ingredients in the formula.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateA synthetic emollient ester. It works to improve the appearance of the skin by filling in the microcracks on the surface, thereby making the skin appear softer and smoother. It imparts a lightweight, velvety feel.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Aminomethyl Propanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminomethyl PropanolA synthetic ingredient that helps to adjust the pH of a product to make it less acidic.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylhydroxamic AcidA chelating agent used alongside preservatives in order to boost their antimicrobial activity.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Hydroxycitronellal
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxycitronellal

A fragrant compound with a scent reminiscent of lilies and sweet tropical melon. It can be found in many different essential oils (such as palmarosa, ylang-ylang, and lemongrass essential oil) but is manufactured synthetically from citronellal.

Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LinaloolA fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Coumarin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coumarin

A plant-based fragrant compound that occurs in sweet-smelling grass, sweet woodruff, and sweet clover. It has a sweet and vanilla-like scent in high concentrations and a similar scent to freshly mowed grass in low concentrations.

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Alpha-Isomethyl IononeA fragrance ingredient that is supplied as a pale, yellow liquid. The scent it emits is very clean and features notes of violet and orris. Alpha-isomethyl is also used as a flavoring agent in lip care products and even in some foods and drinks.
Geraniol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Geraniol

A fragrant, volatile, plant-based, liquid chemical that can be naturally found in many essential oils (specifically rose, palmarosa, citronella). It has a rose-like scent. It is a potential irritant and may cause an allergic reaction in some people.

Isoeugenol
Est. %0.03
Function
Origin
Isoeugenol

A fragrant compound found in ylang-ylang essential oil that has a vanilla-like, creamy, and sweet aroma.