Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 Review

Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
50
SPF icon
SPF
Review

Does Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Very high sun protection for prolonged sun exposure, such as spending the day at the beach, hiking, or outdoor sports.

Key Benefits of Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50:
 

Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.4 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈6.0%) and Propylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Very high sun protection for prolonged sun exposure, all skin types, and high-risk conditions

With an SPF of 50, Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 provides very high sun protection, suitable for intense sun exposure in tropical climates, beach vacations, or high-altitude environments.

This level of SPF blocks 98% or more of UVB rays, offering the highest level of defense against sunburn. Broad-spectrum formulations also provide strong protection against UVA rays, which are responsible for skin aging, pigmentation, and DNA damage.

For optimal protection, choose products labeled broad-spectrum to ensure defense against both UVA rays, which contribute to skin aging and pigmentation, and UVB rays that cause sunburn.

This level of SPF is ideal for all skin types, particularly fair, sensitive, or post-treatment skin (e.g., after laser or chemical procedures). It is also highly recommended for individuals at greater risk of skin cancer.

For extended outdoor activities or water exposure, choose a water-resistant formula and reapply every two hours for maximum effectiveness.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 to your skincare routine:
 

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically exclude the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were accessible to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Provides very high sun protection, ideal for intense sun exposure in tropical climates, high-altitude environments, and beach vacations, suitable for all skin types

Cons: 

  • Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Octinoxate
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Function:
Origin:
Octisalate
Function:
Origin:
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Function:
Origin:
Avobenzone
Function:
Origin:
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Function:
Origin:
Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Mica
Function:
Origin:
Isostearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-2
Function:
Origin:
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
4-Butylresorcinol
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol Denat.
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol Cocoate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Decyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Diacetyl Boldine
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Disodium Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Ethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Oleate
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Hexylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Phenethyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Polysilicone-11
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Cholate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Tranexamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.5
6
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.5 10
10.0
6
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 11.5 10
10
All humectants
11.5
6
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.8 3 No
All antioxidants
1.8
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
0.3
4-Butylresorcinol
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
BHT
0.3
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.6 5 No
All soothing
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %55
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Octinoxate
Est. %9
Function
Origin
OctinoxateA chemical sunscreen also known as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. It protects against UVB, which causes the skin to burn and tan and can lead to certain types of skin cancers. For broad-spectrum protection claims, octinoxate should be paired with a UVA sunscreen.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Propylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Octisalate
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
OctisalateA UVB sunscreen also known as ethylhexyl salicylate. It is normally paired with UVA sunscreens to provide broad-spectrum protection. Octisalate also protects other ingredients, like colorants and antioxidants, from deterioration due to exposure to UV light.
Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %2
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineA synthetic "chemical" sunscreen ingredient that protects against UV damage and offers better stability and safety compared to some other traditional organic suncreen ingredients.
Avobenzone
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
AvobenzoneA popular sunscreen that protects against UVA rays, which cause premature aging and skin cancer. Avobenzone degrades after about 30 minutes of sun exposure and becomes ineffective. It is therefore often paired with UV-filter stabilizers such as octocrylene.
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Polymethyl MethacrylateA powdered ingredient with an impressive sensory profile that gives off a creamy, sometimes velvety feeling on the skin. It is made up of tiny microspheres that roll smoothly across the skin and create slip and high spreadability.
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneA silicone with the unusual trait of being able to disperse in water. It moisturizes the skin as a humectant and leaves a soft and smooth after-feel. This ingredient also has foam-boosting properties.
Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower ExtractA soothing extract obtained from the flowers of the common daisy with additional astringent and wound healing benefits.
Mica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MicaA mineral powder made up of silicates with several functions (the main one being as a colorant). It has a shimmery appearance, making it highly desirable in certain cosmetic products. Mica also helps the product to apply more smoothly.
Isostearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Isostearyl Alcohol
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)One of two the most commonly used mineral sunscreens. It can absorb UV light, including UVB – which causes burning, tanning, and even skin cancer. Also used as a colorant, titanium dioxide gives a product a bright white color.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-2
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-2
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA derivative of vitamin C. Its stability in skincare formulations is better than ascorbic acid’s, although clinical studies are yet to indicate whether it has the same collagen-boosting benefits.
4-Butylresorcinol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
4-Butylresorcinol
Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlcoholAn effective antimicrobial ingredient that kills bacteria, fungi, and even some viruses. It is also an excellent solvent and astringent. Alcohol helps to create lighter and less viscous products. It can, however, be dehydrating and skin-sensitizing.
Alcohol Denat.
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains additives that make it unsafe to consume. It is mainly used as a solvent and an antimicrobial agent. A major drawback to alcohol denat. is that it dries out the skin.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
Butylene Glycol Cocoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol Cocoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Decyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Decyl GlucosideA surfactant that can function as both a cleansing agent and emulsifier. As a cleansing agent, it is very mild on the skin. As an emulsifier, decyl glucoside will produce oil-in-water emulsions. It is naturally derived from vegetable oils and starch.
Diacetyl Boldine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Diacetyl Boldine
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Dipotassium Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium Phosphate
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Disodium Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium PhosphateAn inorganic ingredient primarily used in skincare products as a pH adjuster.
Ethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ethylcellulose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Glyceryl Oleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl OleateA nonionic surfactant that can be used as an emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, and thickener in both skin cleansers and leave-on skincare products.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Hexylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hexylene GlycolA multifunctional ingredient that is best known for its use as a solvent. It can dissolve both water-based ingredients and oils. For this reason, it can also function as an emulsifier, allowing oil and water ingredients to mix and remain stable.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melissa Officinalis Leaf ExtractA fragrant extract derived from lemon balm leaves with antioxidant and antiviral flavonoids and terpenes. It has a lovely, fresh, lemon-like scent.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Phenethyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phenethyl AlcoholA multifunctional ingredient that primarily serves as a preservative. Derived from the Chinese cinnamon tree, it provides broad-spectrum protection for skincare products through its antimicrobial efficacy.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Polysilicone-11
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysilicone-11A synthetic rubber-like substance of the silicone family that has no color or distinct scent. These are large molecules that cannot penetrate the skin but instead create a thin silky film on the skin's surface.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Potassium Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium PhosphateA salt of phosphoric acid that normally acts as a weak base.
Silica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Sodium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.

Sodium Cholate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Cholate
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Tranexamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tranexamic AcidA synthetic amino acid that is used as an astringent to stop the bleeding from small cuts. It also has proven anti-pigment and redness-reducing effects.
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine