P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule Review

P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
6.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Review

Does P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 6.5 out of 10, P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule is effective in minimizing wrinkles.

Key Benefits of P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule:
 

Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.4 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Gluconolactone (est. ≈6.0%), Methylpropanediol (est. ≈4.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Significant Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule has a high anti-wrinkle rating of 6.5 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinal (est. ≈0.05%),
     also known as retinaldehyde, is a potent retinoid with anti-wrinkle efficacy confirmed by a single clinical study involving 125 participants (Creidi et al.). This study demonstrated that a cream containing 0.05% retinal reduced the average wrinkle depth by 8% after 18 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without retinal).
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈1.0%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
Among others, P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule also contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Gluconolactone, Adenosine, Lactobacillus Ferment, and Bakuchiol. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Pros & Cons of P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of P.Calm Retinolagen Ampoule to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Delivers signficant anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons: 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.05
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Methylpropanediol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Polyglycerin-3
Function:
Origin:
Tromethamine
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Soluble Collagen
Function:
Origin:
C12-14 Pareth-12
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Gluceth-20
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Gluceth-10
Function:
Origin:
Glycereth-26
Function:
Origin:
Coptis Japonica Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Function:
Origin:
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Succinic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Polyacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Viola Odorata Flower/Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Lactobacillus Ferment
Function:
Origin:
Cymbopogon Martini Oil
Function:
Origin:
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Polylactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Function:
Origin:
Cholesterol
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Retinal
Function:
Origin:
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols
Function:
Origin:
Ceteth-5
Function:
Origin:
Ceteth-3
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Function:
Origin:
Bakuchiol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
19.9
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 19.9 10
10.0
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 19.9 10
10
All humectants
19.9
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
5 /10 0.05 0.05 5
6 /10 4 1 1.5
n/a
- 6 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
6.5
Retinal
5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
5 /10
when present at, %
0.05
in this formula, est. %
0.05
Niacinamide
1.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
1
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
6
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Lactobacillus Ferment
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Bakuchiol
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
6.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.5 3 No
All antioxidants
2.5
Niacinamide
1
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
0.3
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
0.3
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
0.3
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
0.3
Bakuchiol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 2.5 5 No
All soothing
2.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Gluconolactone
Est. %6
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Methylpropanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
MethylpropanediolMethylpropanediol is a unique glycol that contains two primary hydroxyl groups. That makes methylpropanediol a powerful humectant and an excellent solvent.
Glycerin
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Polyglycerin-3
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Polyglycerin-3
Tromethamine
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
TromethamineAn ingredient based on amino acids that is commonly used as a pH adjuster. It has a high pH, which means that it is basic (alkaline), so adding tromethamine to a skincare product will increase its overall pH level.
Niacinamide
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Soluble Collagen
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Soluble CollagenA protein obtained from farm or marine animals. Collagen molecules are too big to penetrate the skin so when they are applied via a skincare product they sit on top of the skin and act as humectant moisturizers.
C12-14 Pareth-12
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
C12-14 Pareth-12
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Methyl Gluceth-20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Methyl Gluceth-20A humectant synthetically derived from glucose. It takes on the form of a clear, syrupy liquid.
Methyl Gluceth-10
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Methyl Gluceth-10A synthetic, humectant moisturizing ingredient derived from glucose.
Glycereth-26
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycereth-26

A glycerin-based ingredient with humectant moisturizing properties. It is an excellent emulsifier and thickener.

Coptis Japonica Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coptis Japonica Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA polymeric ingredient that creates lightweight and refreshing gel textures. It also works as a viscosity controlling agent.
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Eclipta Prostrata ExtractA soothing extract of false daisy that contains a variety of active anti-inflammatory phytochemicals such as flavonoids, terpenes, phytosterols, and special compounds called thiopenes.
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coccinia Indica Fruit ExtractAn extract derived from the cucumber-like fruits of ivy gourd. It contains a large amount of soothing mucilage as well as some antioxidant carotenoids. It has also been shown that the extract may have some anti-allergy properties.
Succinic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Succinic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PolyacrylateThis white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Viola Odorata Flower/Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Viola Odorata Flower/Leaf Extract
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Extract
Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Punica Granatum Fruit ExtractA pomegranate fruit extract that contains antioxidant polyphenols and a rare emollient punicic acid. It is aimed at dry, irritated skin.
Lactobacillus Ferment
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactobacillus FermentA biotechnological product – a mixture of metabolic products of Lactobacillus culture. Some Lactobacillus forms have been reported to have anti-wrinkle and barrier repairing effects, as well as able to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and gloss.
Cymbopogon Martini Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cymbopogon Martini OilA fragrant essential oil distilled from an Indian grass species known as palmarosa. It has two rose-scented volatile compounds - geraniol and nerol.
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lavandula Hybrida OilA fragrant essential oil distilled from a lavender hybrid of the two most common lavender species: true lavender and spike lavender. It contains linalool and linalyl acetate as well as eucalyptol and camphor, which altogether give it a cooling, lavender scent.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf OilAn essential oil distilled from the leaves of rosemary. It is used as a fragrance in skincare and has a spicy, earthy, camphoraceous scent. It also has antioxidant properties according to some research.
Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Glyceryl Caprylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl CaprylateA waxy solid derived from vegetable oils that has emollient and emulsifying properties. It is also known to boost the efficacy of organic acid preservatives by destabilizing the microbe's cell membrane.
Polylactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polylactic Acid
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed OilAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient oil extracted from macadamia nuts. It is clear and pale yellow with a pleasant nutty aroma and contains oleic and palmitoleic fatty acids, tocopherols, phytosterols, squalene, and polyphenols.
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated LecithinA version of plain lecithin that has been saturated with hydrogen atoms. This ingredient can be derived from plants, like soy or sunflower, from egg yolks, or made synthetically. Its major function is to emulsify water and oils.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateA vegetable glycerin or synthetically produced emulsifier and gentle cleansing agent. It won't leave skin feeling tight or dry when used to cleanse.
Cholesterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CholesterolAn emollient and important barrier repairing lipid, effective when combined with fatty acids and ceramides. Around 25% of the skin’s lipid layer is made up of cholesterol and it is found in the membrane of every single cell in our body.
Silica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Retinal
Est. %0.05
Function
Origin
Retinal

A potent ingredient of the retinoid group with confirmed anti-wrinkle capabilities.

Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) SterolsBrassica campestris sterols are a mixture of sterols (fat-like compounds) obtained from rapeseed oil. They are used as an emollient additive to the oil base of a cosmetic product. Read more about rapeseed oil here: Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil.
Ceteth-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceteth-5
Ceteth-3
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceteth-3
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium Cetyl PhosphateA powerful emulsifier that can even mix particularly problematic water and oil blends. It is also a surfactant perfect for cleansing products that effectively rinse off oil and dirt particles from the surface of the skin.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateAn antioxidant that protects vulnerable ingredients from the damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, which can also lead to the generation of damaging free radical species.
Bakuchiol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BakuchiolA newly discovered bioactive obtained from the seeds of Babchi. It boosts collagen production like retinol, but with fewer side effects. Its effects include reduced wrinkles and faded pigmentation.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.