Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum

Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
5.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Does Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 5.5 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.4 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Pentylene Glycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 5.5 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Niacinamide (est. ≈2.0%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
Among others, Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum also contains Adenosine, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Adenosine provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈2.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Isohexadecane
Function:
Origin:
Isononyl Isononanoate
Function:
Origin:
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Function:
Origin:
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Function:
Origin:
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Function:
Origin:
Lauroyl Lysine
Function:
Origin:
Octyldodecanol
Function:
Origin:
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Dicaprylyl Ether
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Function:
Origin:
Behenyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Phenethyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Poloxamer 188
Function:
Origin:
Polycaprolactone
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Laurate
Function:
Origin:
Steareth-100
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Function:
Origin:
Chlorphenesin
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
15.9
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 15.9 10
10.0
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 15.9 10
10
All humectants
15.9
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 2 3
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
5.5
Niacinamide
3
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
2
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 3.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
3.5
Niacinamide
2
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
0.3
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
0.3
All soothing 2.3 5 No
All soothing
2.3
2
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Niacinamide
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Isohexadecane
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
IsohexadecaneA clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as an emollient. It is made up of pure hydrocarbons and leaves a dry feeling on the skin upon application. It also increases the spreadability of a product.
Isononyl Isononanoate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Isononyl IsononanoateAn ester of a branched fatty acid with a branched fatty alcohol. It is an easily spreadable emollient that has a silky, dry, non-greasy feel on the skin.
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Diisopropyl Sebacate
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
4-t-ButylcyclohexanolA powerful bioactive compound designed to soothe irritated, burning, and itchy skin. The effectiveness of its soothing properties has been proven by clinical trials and it is often combined with other soothing ingredients.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterA dipeptide-based ingredient claimed to stimulate elastin production and reduce the appearacne of wrinkles and sagging skin.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Lauroyl Lysine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lauroyl LysineA synthetic insoluble powder that improves the texture of a product, leaving the skin silky smooth and absorbing oils and sweat.
Octyldodecanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
OctyldodecanolAn emollient fatty alcohol that spreads easily without leaving a greasy residue on the skin. It is also used as a solvent and dispersing agent for other ingredients.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateAn antioxidant that protects vulnerable ingredients from the damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, which can also lead to the generation of damaging free radical species.
Sodium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA chelating agent that disables harmful heavy metal ions present in skincare.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Dicaprylyl Ether
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dicaprylyl EtherA fast-spreading and very lightweight emollient. It is used to reduce the tack and oiliness of oil-based formulas and gives the skin a dry, silky after-feel. It is also a great solvent.
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener with gelling properties. The products containing this ingredient frequently feature lightweight and refreshing aesthetics upon application to the skin.
Behenyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Behenyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol with emollient properties. It is used as a co-emulsifier and thickener and tends to result in a product with a smooth and creamy application texture.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Cetearyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl GlucosideAn emulsifier that creates stable mixtures of oil in water that feel soft and spread easily. Cetearyl glucoside is sold with cetearyl alcohol as an emulsifier blend and also provides some body to the formula.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilAn occlusive moisturizing oil expressed from soybeans. It does not leave an oily feeling on the skin due to its low content of saturated fatty acids. Glycine soja oil contains emollient fatty acids and a significant amount of antioxidants.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Phenethyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phenethyl AlcoholA multifunctional ingredient that primarily serves as a preservative. Derived from the Chinese cinnamon tree, it provides broad-spectrum protection for skincare products through its antimicrobial efficacy.
Poloxamer 188
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Poloxamer 188
Polycaprolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polycaprolactone
Sorbitan Laurate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan LaurateSorbitan laurate is a sugar-based emulsifier similar to sucrose palmitate. It keeps oil broken into small droplets throughout water because of its chemical shape and nature (this is how most oil-in-water emulsifiers work by the way). These kinds of emulsifiers are mild enough to even be used in food preparations.
Steareth-100
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Steareth-100
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)An orange-red plant pigment with powerful antioxidant activity.
Chlorphenesin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ChlorphenesinA preservative and broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent that protects products from a wide range of bacteria and fungi.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.