facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% Review

facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05%
5.5
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
5.4Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Review

Does facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% has an anti-wrinkle rating of 5.4 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05%

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05%:
 

Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.0 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈9.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈6.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Considerable Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 5.4 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinal (est. ≈0.05%),
     also known as retinaldehyde, is a potent retinoid with anti-wrinkle efficacy confirmed by a single clinical study involving 125 participants (Creidi et al.). This study demonstrated that a cream containing 0.05% retinal reduced the average wrinkle depth by 8% after 18 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without retinal).
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
Among others, facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% also contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Gluconolactone, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈2.5%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Pros & Cons of facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05%

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of facetheory Retinal Supreme Multicream 0.05% to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Provides considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution

Cons: 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.05
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
C15-19 Alkane
Function:
Origin:
Coco-Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
Function:
Origin:
Hydrated Silica
Function:
Origin:
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Mannitol
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
Function:
Origin:
Hectorite
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Levulinate
Function:
Origin:
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyapatite
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Phytate
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Powder
Function:
Origin:
Sclerotium Gum
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Cellulose Gum
Function:
Origin:
Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum
Function:
Origin:
Chondrus Crispus Powder
Function:
Origin:
Glucose
Function:
Origin:
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Function:
Origin:
Retinal
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
18.4
9
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.9
1.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 18.4 10
10.0
9
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.9 20
1.0
1.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 18.4 10
10
All humectants
18.4
9
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 1.9 20
1.0
All occlusives
1.9
1.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
5 /10 0.05 0.05 5
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 2.5 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
5.4
Retinal
5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
5 /10
when present at, %
0.05
in this formula, est. %
0.05
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
2.5
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.3
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
2.5
Mannitol
1
Niacinamide
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Chondrus Crispus Powder
0.3
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1
0.3
All soothing 1.3 5 No
All soothing
1.3
1
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
C15-19 Alkane
Est. %4
Function
Origin
C15-19 Alkane
Coco-Caprylate
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Coco-CaprylateA naturally-derived or synthetically produced oil with a very light feel. An alternative to silicones, this ingredient spreads quickly and doesn't leave a residue on skin.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA derivative of vitamin C. Its stability in skincare formulations is better than ascorbic acid’s, although clinical studies are yet to indicate whether it has the same collagen-boosting benefits.
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
Hydrated Silica
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Hydrated SilicaA form of silicone dioxide, the major component of sand, that contains varying amounts of water. It has several purposes but is most commonly used as an abrasive (as an eco-conscious alternative to polyethylene microbeads).
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel OilA fatty oil expressed from the seed kernels of apricot fruits. This oil is an emollient and occlusive moisturizer comprised of around 60% oleic acid, followed by linoleic and palmitic acid, carotenoids, vitamin E, and other antioxidant compounds.
Mannitol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
MannitolA sweet-tasting, sugar-derived, humectant alcohol that can stabilize a skincare formula and offer some antioxidant and soothing properties.
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-4 CaprateA natural surfactant that softens the appearance of skin and forms oil and water mixtures.
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
Hectorite
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hectorite
Sodium Levulinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium LevulinateA sodium salt of levulinic acid that is used as an antimicrobial and preservative agent, inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria in a product.
Gluconolactone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Glyceryl Caprylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl CaprylateA waxy solid derived from vegetable oils that has emollient and emulsifying properties. It is also known to boost the efficacy of organic acid preservatives by destabilizing the microbe's cell membrane.
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated Castor OilA processed, butter-like castor oil. It is solely comprised of occlusive moisturizing and emollient saturated fatty acids and is best suited for dry skin. It can also act as a thickener and emulsifier.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Hydroxyapatite
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyapatite
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder
Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Sodium Phytate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PhytateSodium phytate is a chelating agent that serves to remove heavy metal ions from water. Removing metal ions helps other ingredients, such as antioxidants and preservatives, to perform better and keep products from separating.
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Powder
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Powder
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclerotium GumA thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Cellulose Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cellulose GumA polymer that is derived from its namesake, cellulose, which is plant-based. It has many formula-helper benefits, including thickening and product stabilization.
Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) GumAlso known as carob gum, this ingredient is a plant-based formula helper extracted from carob tree seeds. It consists of film- and gel-forming polysaccharides called galactomannans.
Chondrus Crispus Powder
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chondrus Crispus PowderAn antioxidant powder made from a dried marine algae called Irish moss. It contains a humectant moisturizing algal polysaccharide called carrageenan, and can also act as a multifunctional formula helper.
Glucose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlucoseA simple sugar that is also one of two components of sucrose, or table sugar. It is used as a humectant in skincare products. Glucose is also used to flavor lip care cosmetics because of its mildly sweet taste.
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chlorella Vulgaris ExtractA dried mass of tiny, single-cell green algae. It is widely used as a food source or dietary supplement since it is rich in proteins, amino acids, minerals, and vitamins. This dark green extract is used as an antioxidant agent in skincare.
Retinal
Est. %0.05
Function
Origin
Retinal

A potent ingredient of the retinoid group with confirmed anti-wrinkle capabilities.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateThe newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Lactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

A synthetically made peptide that works as a signal peptide, increasing the production of collagen in the skin.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11