Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex

Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex
4.9
/ 10
Moisturizing
4.3 Humectancy icon Humectancy
5.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
3.4Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
$$$$

Review

Results you may expect from using Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.9 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex has an anti-wrinkle rating of 3.4 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex has a moisturizing rating of 4.9 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? This product has relatively comparable levels of humectancy and occlusivity: a moderate humectancy of 4.3 out of 10, primarily due to the substantial concentration of Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%), and a moderate occlusivity of 5.6 out of 10, mainly due to the high content of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (est. ≈9.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 3.4 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈3.0%),
     highly effective in peelings, yet with below-average anti-wrinkle efficacy when used in leave-on skincare products.
 
Among others, Epicuren Discovery Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex also contains Retinyl Acetate, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Retinyl Acetate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.
 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
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Ratings

All humectants
4.3
4
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
11.1
9.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 4.3 10
4.3
4
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 11.1 20
5.6
9.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
4.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
0.3
All humectants 4.3 10
4.3
All humectants
4.3
4
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
9
1.5
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 11.1 20
5.6
All occlusives
11.1
9.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
1.5 /10 5 3 0.9
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
3.4
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Glycolic Acid
0.9
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
3
Retinyl Acetate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
3.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
All antioxidants 0.3 3 No
All antioxidants
0.3
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
None
All soothing 0 5 No
All soothing
0
None
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %9
Function
Origin
A natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
A naturally-derived thickening agent that dissolves in water.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Glycolic Acid
Est. %3
Function
Origin

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Cetearyl Olivate
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
A multifunctional ingredient derived from plants that primarily serves as an emulsifier. Supplied as a waxy ivory-colored flake, it can also be used as an emollient and slip modifier that gives a product an overall light, silky finish.
Sorbitan Olivate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
An ester of sorbitol (a type of sugar alcohol) and olive oil fatty acids. It is used as an emulsifying agent to stabilize oil droplets in water (or vice versa).
Squalane
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
An occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
A naturally-derived emollient ester. It is a blend of caprylates and caprates and, relative to other emollients, is lightweight and dry on the skin. As a result, coco-caprylate/caprate serves as a natural alternative to volatile silicones.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
An emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Phenethyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A multifunctional ingredient that primarily serves as a preservative. Derived from the Chinese cinnamon tree, it provides broad-spectrum protection for skincare products through its antimicrobial efficacy.
Retinyl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An esterified vitamin A that has improved stability. It is not yet known if it gets converted into retinoic acid in the skin or if has the same anti-aging properties as retinol.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A liquid plant wax, also known as Jojoba oil, pressed from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis. These seeds can contain up to 50% of liquid wax. It is used as an occlusive moisturizer, emollient, and emulsifier.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A famous olive oil widely used in skincare as an emollient and occlusive moisturizer. It contains mainly unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidant flavonoids, and oleuropeins. Olive oil is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.

Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant oil extracted from tangerine peels that, like other citrus peels, contains a citrusy-scented phytochemical known as limonene.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Decyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A surfactant that can function as both a cleansing agent and emulsifier. As a cleansing agent, it is very mild on the skin. As an emulsifier, decyl glucoside will produce oil-in-water emulsions. It is naturally derived from vegetable oils and starch.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fragrant essential neroli oil distilled from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It has a rich, orange-floral scent with fresh and spicy notes.