SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream Review

SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream
5.5
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Ingredients

SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream Ingredients

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Full Ingredient List (INCI):

Water, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Squalane, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Salicylic Acid, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
Review

Does SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream Work?

 
According to CreamScan's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream has to offer:
 
✅ Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.
✅ Soothing: SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
✅ Antioxidant protection

  

Key Benefits of SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream:
 

🔵 Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.0 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

💧 A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

🍀 Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract (est. ≈9.0%) and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

🔴 Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

📌 Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream

 
CreamScan identified a few things to consider before adding SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream to your skincare routine:
 

⚠️ Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Ascorbyl Palmitate, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Ascorbyl Palmitate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically rule out the possibility that Ascorbyl Palmitate may reduce wrinkles, its efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were available to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

📌 Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

🟩 Pros:

✅ When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
✅ As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
✅ Lightweight texture
✅ Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
✅ Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, specifically Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
 

⭕ Cons: 

⚠️ Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy
   

Summary: SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream

 
Based on the ingredient list analysis, CreamScan AI suggests that SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream
, when used alone, delivers lightweight, humectant-rich moisturizing, making it ideal for oily skin. As part of a moisturizing routine, it provides a humectant boost, beneficial for all skin types.
 
Rich in antioxidants, SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream helps protect against free radical damage and offers multiple benefits for all skin types, including preventing premature aging, defending against environmental damage, and calming inflammation. This product is also formulated with a high concentration of soothing ingredients, offering the potential to calm and comfort irritated skin. Whether you’re experiencing redness, irritation, or general sensitivity, its soothing properties may help restore balance and provide relief.
 
That said, there are some things about SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream worth noting.
 
If one of your main reasons for considering SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cream is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, its anti-wrinkle efficacy is questionable. None of the ingredients in this product provide substantial evidence of their anti-wrinkle efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.
 
📌 Fact check. At CreamScan, we are committed to accuracy and fairness. If you spot any errors or something that doesn’t seem right, please click here to let us know. We regularly update the ingredient lists and monitor the latest research on ingredient efficacy to ensure that our information remains as complete and precise as possible. The information provided here is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional advice. We do not guarantee the efficacy or safety of any product, as individual results may vary.

 

Ingredient Breakdown

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Stearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Aminomethyl Propanol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.2
6
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.9
1.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.2 10
10.0
6
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.9 20
1.0
1.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 11.2 10
10
All humectants
11.2
6
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 1.9 20
1.0
All occlusives
1.9
1.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
9
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 17.8 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
17.8
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
9
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
6
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
1
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
0.3
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
0.3
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
0.3
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 7.5 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
7.5
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit ExtractAn extract derived from the berries of the bilberry plant, sometimes called European blueberry. It is rich in antioxidant anthocyanins and astringent tannins.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceA gelatinous juice from Aloe vera leaves that acts as a powerful humectant, emollient, and antioxidant. It contains enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that soothe irritated skin and have wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Cetyl EthylhexanoateA clear, pale yellow liquid, that functions as an emollient and a solvent, meaning that it is useful for dissolving oil-soluble ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Squalane
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) ExtractAn antioxidant extract from sugarcane, the famous crop used to make sugar. It acts as a humectant and exfoliating agent – the little sugar crystals mechanically remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Stearic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Stearic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium Aluminum SilicateA naturally occurring clay that is hygroscopic, which means that it easily absorbs water. This ingredient is thus commonly used as an absorbent and emulsion stabilizer. It also modifies slip by improving the spreadability of the products it is used in.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

An extract from the fruit of the sweet orange. It contains fragrant sweet orange essential oil, high amounts of antioxidant flavonoids (mainly hesperidin), and carotenoids – which give it the orange color.

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract

A fragrant extract from lemon peels that contains various antioxidant flavonoids, organic acids, and limonoids – which are currently under investigation as potential anti-wrinkle and anti-pigment compounds.

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) ExtractAn antioxidant extract from sugar maple bark and sap – the same sweet sap used to make maple syrup. It has a faint vanilla smell and is used in skincare for its exfoliating properties. This is because of the small sugar crystals present in the extract.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Althaea Officinalis Root ExtractA soothing extract obtained from the marsh-mallow plant. It contains anti-inflammatory polyphenols and antioxidant polysaccharides.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower ExtractDerived from German chamomile flowers, this extract is especially known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. It contains two soothing compounds called chamazulene and bisabolol, as well as antioxidant flavonoids.
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Soy ProteinA mixture of proteins obtained from soybeans. It can have many different functions depending on the manufacturer, although it is most commonly used in skincare products as a humectant moisturizing ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Aminomethyl Propanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminomethyl PropanolA synthetic ingredient that helps to adjust the pH of a product to make it less acidic.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.