SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum

SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum
5.1
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers

Review

Results you may expect from using SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.
  • Soothing: SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.2 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, due to the high content of Gluconolactone (est. ≈15.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈15.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈2.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Gluconolactone and Centella Asiatica Extract, two ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Centella Asiatica Extract (est. ≈2.0%), Sophora Flavescens Root Extract (est. ≈2.0%), Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract (est. ≈2.0%), and others.

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin soothing

Based on the ingredient list analysis, SkinInspired AHA BHA PHA Desqua Mate Face Serum is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Salicylic Acid (est. ≈2.0%), Centella Asiatica Extract (est. ≈2.0%), Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract (est. ≈2.0%), and others.

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
15
Gluconolactone
15
Potassium Acetate
15
Propanediol
2
Salicylic Acid
2
Centella Asiatica Extract
2
Polysorbate 80
2
Water
2
Butylene Glycol
2
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
2
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
2
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
2
Octyldodecanol
2
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
2
Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Fruit Extract
2
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
2
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
2
Betaine
2
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
2
Allantoin
2
Hydroxyethylcellulose
2
Sodium Hyaluronate
2
DMDM Hydantoin
0.3
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
0.3
Disodium EDTA
0.3
Sodium Hydroxide
0.3
Triethanolamine
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Fragrance
Est. %
Gluconolactone
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Centella Asiatica Extract
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 80
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Octyldodecanol
Function:
Origin:
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
DMDM Hydantoin
Function:
Origin:
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Triethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
42.0
15
15
2
2
2
2
2
2
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 42 10
10.0
15
15
2
2
2
2
2
2
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
15
15
2
2
2
2
2
2
All humectants 42 10
10
All humectants
42.0
15
15
2
2
2
2
2
2
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 15 -
n/a
- 2 -
Total
0
Gluconolactone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
15
Centella Asiatica Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
2
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
0.3
All antioxidants 14.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
14.3
Centella Asiatica Extract
2
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
2
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
2
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
2
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
2
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
2
Sodium Hyaluronate
2
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
All soothing 14 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
14
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Gluconolactone
Est. %15
Function
Origin
GluconolactoneA PHA derived from glucose. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and acts as a penetration enhancer for other ingredients. It has also been shown to assist in the treatment of acne and the prevention of photoaging.
Potassium Acetate
Est. %15
Function
Origin
Potassium Acetate
Propanediol
Est. %15
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Centella Asiatica Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Centella Asiatica ExtractAn extract from the leaves of the Gotu kola. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It increases the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.
Polysorbate 80
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 80A non-ionic surfactant, which means that it contains no chemical charges. It can be used as a mild cleansing agent in skin cleansing products but is more commonly used for its emulsifying abilities.
Water
Est. %2
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractA powerful antioxidant, soothing, and astringent extract derived from the roots of Baikal/Chinese skullcap. It contains various unique flavonoids that are believed to soothe irritated and inflamed skin and protect from UV-induced oxidative damage.
Octyldodecanol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
OctyldodecanolAn emollient fatty alcohol that spreads easily without leaving a greasy residue on the skin. It is also used as a solvent and dispersing agent for other ingredients.
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Fruit Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Piper Nigrum (Pepper) Fruit Extract
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Magnolia Officinalis Bark ExtractAn antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory extract from Magnolia tree bark, which is popular in Chinese traditional medicine. It is also a prospective anti-pigment ingredient.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceA gelatinous juice from Aloe vera leaves that acts as a powerful humectant, emollient, and antioxidant. It contains enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that soothe irritated skin and have wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Betaine
Est. %2
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilA fragrant and antioxidant essential tea tree oil praised for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. Tea tree oil helps to treat acne, inflamed skin, and small wounds. It might, however, cause allergies and skin irritations.
Allantoin
Est. %2
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %2
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

DMDM Hydantoin
Est. %2
Function
Origin
DMDM HydantoinA synthetic antimicrobial agent that provides broad spectrum protection.
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Iodopropynyl ButylcarbamateA highly effective preservative against fungi, specifically mold and yeast. It is cost-effective, functions at very low levels, and also provides some protection against bacteria.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Triethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TriethanolamineA clear, colorless, and highly viscous liquid, this ingredient is an excellent pH adjuster. When it is necessary to neutralize an acidic solution or to generally increase the pH of a product, triethanolamine is a common choice.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.