Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum

Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum
5.7
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
10Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.7 out of 10.
  • Potent anti-wrinkle effect. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 10 out of 10, Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum is highly potent in reducing wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.7 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.4 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈6.0%), Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%) and Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum has a maximum anti-wrinkle rating of 10 out of 10.

It contains 3 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈1.0%),
     the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients.
  • Asiaticoside (est. ≈0.3%),
     derived from the plant Centella asiatica, an ingredient with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy confirmed by one study.
Among others, Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Bakuchiol, Retinyl Palmitate, Adenosine, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, and some others. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
Water
6
Butylene Glycol
4
Glycerin
3
Niacinamide
2
Dibutyl Adipate
1.5
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
0.6
Bakuchiol
1
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
1
1,2-Hexanediol
1
Hydrogenated Lecithin
1
Betaine
1
Hydroxyacetophenone
0.3
Retinyl Palmitate
1
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
1
Tocopherol
1
Retinol
0.3
Allantoin
0.3
Panthenol
0.3
Polysorbate 20
0.3
Adenosine
0.3
Cetearyl Alcohol
0.3
Disodium EDTA
0.3
Stearic Acid
0.3
Dipropylene Glycol
0.3
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
0.3
Polydextrose
0.3
Ceramide NP
0.3
Asiaticoside
0.3
Madecassic Acid
0.3
Asiatic Acid
0.3
Ceramide NS
0.3
Cholesterol
0.3
Phytosphingosine
0.3
Ferulic Acid
0.3
Ceramide AS
0.3
Ceramide AP
0.3
Copper Tripeptide-1
0.3
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
0.3
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
0.3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
0.3
Ceramide EOP
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Dibutyl Adipate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Bakuchiol
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyacetophenone
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Stearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Dipropylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Function:
Origin:
Polydextrose
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Asiaticoside
Function:
Origin:
Madecassic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Asiatic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NS
Function:
Origin:
Cholesterol
Function:
Origin:
Phytosphingosine
Function:
Origin:
Ferulic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide AS
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide AP
Function:
Origin:
Copper Tripeptide-1
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide EOP
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
15.2
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.8
1.5
1.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.7
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 15.2 10
10.0
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.8 20
1.4
1.5
1.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.7
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 15.2 10
10
All humectants
15.2
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
1
0.3
All occlusives 2.8 20
1.4
All occlusives
2.8
1.5
1.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 1 10
6 /10 4 3 4.5
3 /10 0.1 0.3 3
n/a
- 0.6 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
10
Retinol
10
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
1
Niacinamide
4.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
3
Asiaticoside
3
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
3 /10
when present at, %
0.1
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Bakuchiol
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.6
Retinyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Madecassic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Asiatic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Copper Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
3
1
1
0.6
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 6.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
6.5
Niacinamide
3
Hydroxyacetophenone
1
Tocopherol
1
Bakuchiol
0.6
Asiaticoside
0.3
Ferulic Acid
0.3
Copper Tripeptide-1
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 4.2 5 No
All soothing
4.2
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Niacinamide
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Dibutyl Adipate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Dibutyl AdipateDescription is coming soon
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Bakuchiol
Est. %0.6
Function
Origin
BakuchiolA newly discovered bioactive obtained from the seeds of Babchi. It boosts collagen production like retinol, but with fewer side effects. Its effects include reduced wrinkles and faded pigmentation.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA polymeric ingredient that creates lightweight and refreshing gel textures. It also works as a viscosity controlling agent.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated LecithinA version of plain lecithin that has been saturated with hydrogen atoms. This ingredient can be derived from plants, like soy or sunflower, from egg yolks, or made synthetically. Its major function is to emulsify water and oils.
Betaine
Est. %1
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %1
Function
Origin
HydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.
Retinyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Retinyl PalmitateAn esterified form of retinol – it combines retinol and palmitic acid into one molecule. Retinyl palmitate is less irritating than retinol but also much less effective in its anti-aging and acne-reducing effects.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateA useful ingredient for both cleansing and emulsifying purposes. It is a powerful agent for washing away dirt and oils from the skin.
Tocopherol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Retinol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Stearic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Stearic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
Dipropylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipropylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid that has several uses. One of its main functions is as a solvent. Dipropylene glycol is also used to reduce the thickness of skincare products.
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypropyl CyclodextrinA white crystalline powder that can reduce odors coming from other ingredients in a product.
Polydextrose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolydextroseDescription is coming soon
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Asiaticoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiaticoside

A Gotu Kola or Centella Asiatica derivative with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Madecassic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Madecassic AcidAn isolated bioactive compound from Gotu Kola. It increases collagen and hyaluronic acid production in the skin and helps to treat wounds, scars, and burns.
Asiatic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiatic AcidA compound isolated from Gotu Kola, a promising anti-wrinkle medicinal plant from Southeast Asia. It is claimed to increase the production of collagen and help with the wound healing process.
Ceramide NS
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NSA wax-like lipid natural to the skin’s lipid matrix. It is less frequently used but, in combination with other ceramides, can help to restore balance in the skin’s lipid barrier.
Cholesterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CholesterolAn emollient and important barrier repairing lipid, effective when combined with fatty acids and ceramides. Around 25% of the skin’s lipid layer is made up of cholesterol and it is found in the membrane of every single cell in our body.
Phytosphingosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhytosphingosineA key component of ceramides NP, AP, and EOP. It has barrier repair properties and stimulates the production of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor. Phytosphingosine has strong antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, which can be used to treat acne.
Ferulic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ferulic AcidA plant-based phenolic acid with powerful and scientifically proven antioxidant properties. It enhances the effects of vitamins C and E, as well as the UV protective effects of sunscreens.
Ceramide AS
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide ASDescription is coming soon
Ceramide AP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide APPreviously called Ceramide 6 II, Ceramide AP is one of the most common ceramides in the skin. Research has shown that dry, flaky skin has significantly less Ceramide AP. Its application helps to treat dry skin by restoring balance in the skin lipids.
Copper Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Copper Tripeptide-1

A skin-identical, copper-binding peptide that promotes the synthesis of all structural elements in the skin.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

A small synthetic peptide that is thought to act similarly to Botox by calming contractions of the facial muscles and reducing expression wrinkles. The effect is only temporary and it does not improve the skin structure in any way.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

A famous synthetically made peptide that works as a signal peptide, telling skin cells to create more collagen and other structural proteins. It has been clinically tested and found to be effective at reducing fine wrinkles.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

A synthetic peptide that mimics the activity of immunoglobulin G and signals to the skin to stop the inflammation. It has been shown in studies to reduce wrinkles and enhance collagen content.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

A small peptide consisting of three amino acids with anti-wrinkle effects. Together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, it is a part of the popular anti-wrinkle complex called Matrixyl™ 3000.

Ceramide EOP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide EOPFormerly called Ceramide 1, this ingredient is a skin-identical wax-like lipid with an ultra-long fatty acid chain. It restores and stabilizes the skin’s lipid matrix and helps to treat dry and flaky skin, especially when combined with other ceramides.