Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate

Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate
5.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
8.2 Humectancy icon Humectancy
3.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity

Review

Does Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

Lightweight moisturizer perfect for oily to normal skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a very high humectancy of 8.2 out of 10, primarily due to the substantial concentration of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), and a moderate occlusivity of 3.4 out of 10, mainly due to the significant content of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (est. ≈3.0%) and Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (est. ≈2.0%).

This type of moisturizer is ideal for people with oily skin who want maximum hydration in a relatively lightweight, non-greasy formula. It combines a significant amount of humectants with a limited amount of occlusive ingredients to boost moisturizing efficacy without feeling too heavy.

This product may also be a good choice for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures, as it balances significant moisturizing potential with a relatively lightweight texture.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Cyclomethicone
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Behenyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Coco-Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Phytosterols
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Decyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Linalool
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
8.2
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
6.8
3.0
2.0
1.5
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 8.2 10
8.2
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 6.8 20
3.4
3.0
2.0
1.5
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 8.2 10
8.2
All humectants
8.2
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
2
1.5
0.3
All occlusives 6.8 20
3.4
All occlusives
6.8
3.0
2.0
1.5
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
None
Total
0
None
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.1 3 No
All antioxidants
2.1
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
0.3
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
0.3
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
0.3
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
0.3
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
0.3
Phytosterols
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 3.8 5 No
All soothing
3.8
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Cyclomethicone
Est. %4
Function
Origin
CyclomethiconeA blend of emollient silicones that leaves a smooth and non-greasy after-feel. Unlike other types of oils, it does not leave any residue on the skin, which is part of what makes it so popular.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) OilAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient fatty oil expressed from the seeds of a yellow-flowered plant which often opens its flowers in the evening (hence the name). It is light and suitable for problematic, eczematous, and inflammation-prone skin.
Dimethicone
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Behenyl Alcohol
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Behenyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol with emollient properties. It is used as a co-emulsifier and thickener and tends to result in a product with a smooth and creamy application texture.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Portulaca Oleracea ExtractDerived from green or common purslane, this moisturizing extract is particularly rich in alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid, and contains antioxidant glutathione and vitamin E. As a herbal medicine, it is believed to treat headaches and inflammation.
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root ExtractA moisturizing extract derived from the roots of the dwarf lilyturf, also known as mondo grass. It is rich in humectant polysaccharides and contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds.
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel ExtractA beneficial extract obtained from Oat groats popular in products aimed at eczema-prone skin. It contains skin healing beta-glucan, anti-inflammatory phenolic compounds, antioxidant flavonoids, various lipids, proteins, and moisturizing amino acids.
Coco-Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coco-GlucosideA mild cleansing and foaming agent. It can be used on its own as a gentle cleanser in a skin cleansing product or can be combined with more powerful cleansing agents, called anionic surfactants, to make them milder on the skin.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15

Description is coming soon

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl EthylhexanoateA clear, pale yellow liquid, that functions as an emollient and a solvent, meaning that it is useful for dissolving oil-soluble ingredients.
Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root ExtractA fragrant and anti-inflammatory extract derived from ginger roots. It is a major part of Chinese traditional medicine. In can increase blood circulation, which helps with skin healing and skin metabolism.
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Boerhavia Diffusa Root ExtractA soothing extract derived from punarnava, an Ayurvedic herb. It contains anti-inflammatory and wound healing rotenoids, terpenoids, and organic acids.
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) OilA fatty oil expressed from the fleshy part of an avocado, used in skincare for its excellent emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Avocado oil contains fatty acids, notably oleic acid (up to 80%), squalene, vitamin E, and carotenoids.
Phytosterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhytosterolsA plant-based version of cholesterol that is used for its emollient properties in skincare. The richest sources of phytosterols are corn, rapeseed, and wheat germ oil.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed ExtractAn emollient extract from sunflower seeds that is packed with beneficial-for-skin ingredients such as squalene, phytosterols, phospholipids, amino acids, and antioxidant vitamin E.
Decyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Decyl GlucosideA surfactant that can function as both a cleansing agent and emulsifier. As a cleansing agent, it is very mild on the skin. As an emulsifier, decyl glucoside will produce oil-in-water emulsions. It is naturally derived from vegetable oils and starch.
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) OilA fragrant essential oil derived from sage with a cooling, robust, and pine-like herbal scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Linalool
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LinaloolA fragrant, volatile compound naturally present in many essential oils. It has a pleasant scent and is often used in skincare products as a fragrance. People with sensitive skin should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.