Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%
6.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
2.5 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers

Review

Does Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%:

  • Significant moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Lightweight moisturizer perfect for oily to normal skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% is highly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 6.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 2.5 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%).

This type of moisturizer is ideal for people with oily skin who want maximum hydration in a relatively lightweight, non-greasy formula. It combines a significant amount of humectants with a limited amount of occlusive ingredients to boost moisturizing efficacy without feeling too heavy.

This product may also be a good choice for people with normal skin who prefer fast-absorbing textures, as it balances significant moisturizing potential with a relatively lightweight texture.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Some anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinol (est. ≈0.1%), 
 the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
 
Among others, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% also contains contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin soothing and calming potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈9.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

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Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
PEG-8
Function:
Origin:
Stearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
C14-22 Alcohols
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Function:
Origin:
Xylitylglucoside
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Aminomethyl Propanol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Ethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Lactamide MEA
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Anhydroxylitol
Function:
Origin:
Apricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Glucose
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Xylitol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
18.2
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
5.0
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 18.2 10
10.0
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 5.0 20
2.5
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
6.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 18.2 10
10
All humectants
18.2
9
4
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
2.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 5.0 20
2.5
All occlusives
5.0
2.5
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
9
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 9.9 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
9.9
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
9
BHT
0.3
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
9
0.3
All soothing 9.3 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
9.3
9
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceA gelatinous juice from Aloe vera leaves that acts as a powerful humectant, emollient, and antioxidant. It contains enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that soothe irritated skin and have wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl EthylhexanoateAn emollient ester that is derived from palm and palm kernel oil and is known for its velvety soft skin feel and excellent spreading properties.
Squalane
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Cetyl Caprylate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Cetyl Caprylate
Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

PEG-8
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
PEG-8A synthetic liquid that serves as a humectant. It also works as a solvent because of its ability to dissolve a wide range of ingredients.
Stearic Acid
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Stearic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polymethyl MethacrylateA powdered ingredient with an impressive sensory profile that gives off a creamy, sometimes velvety feeling on the skin. It is made up of tiny microspheres that roll smoothly across the skin and create slip and high spreadability.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
C14-22 Alcohols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
C14-22 AlcoholsA naturally-derived emulsion stabilizer that has a light feel. It is not a drying alcohol, in fact the emulsions it helps create can make the skin feel soft and cushioned.
Cetyl Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl DimethiconeA silicone-based emollient and occlusive ingredient that provides slip and adds shine to formulas.
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Xylitylglucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
XylitylglucosideAn emollient extract from rice bran, the brown outer part of the rice kernel. It includes palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acids, and antioxidants such as tocopherols and γ-oryzanol.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Aminomethyl Propanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminomethyl PropanolA synthetic ingredient that helps to adjust the pH of a product to make it less acidic.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Ethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ethanolamine
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Lactamide MEA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactamide MEA
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium Cetyl PhosphateA powerful emulsifier that can even mix particularly problematic water and oil blends. It is also a surfactant perfect for cleansing products that effectively rinse off oil and dirt particles from the surface of the skin.
Sodium PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Anhydroxylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AnhydroxylitolA derivative of xylitol, a naturally occurring sugar alcohol. It has humectant moisturizing properties.
Apricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Apricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters
BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Glucose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlucoseA simple sugar that is also one of two components of sucrose, or table sugar. It is used as a humectant in skincare products. Glucose is also used to flavor lip care cosmetics because of its mildly sweet taste.
Magnesium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium ChlorideA chloride salt with a bitter taste and the ability to thicken water-in-oil emulsions.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateThe most researched derivative of vitamin C. It boosts collagen synthesis, thereby improving skin structure and elasticity. SAP is effective in the treatment of inflamed acne lesions and has a weak but positive effect on pigmentation issues.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea TrifluoroacetateA small, peptide-like ingredient designed to improve skin firmness and hydration by stimulating the production of proteins and peptidoglycans in the skin.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Xylitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
XylitolAn organic compound that is most well-known for its use as a sweetener that also protects your teeth from cavities. Xylitol is used in skincare as a moisturizing humectant and has been shown to improve the protective barrier function of the skin.