Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum

Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum
4.3
/ 10
Moisturizing
8.4 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
3.1Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Results you may expect from using Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.3 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 3.1 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum has a moisturizing rating of 4.3 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.2 out of 10 and a very high humectancy of 8.4 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Diglycerin (est. ≈6.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 3.1 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (est. ≈0.3%),
     the only derivative of Ascorbic acid with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy. This ingredient has below-average efficacy, proven by one study.
Among others, Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 0.5 Age Defense Serum also contains Ascorbyl Palmitate, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Ascorbyl Palmitate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
Water
6
Diglycerin
4
Trideceth-9
3
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
2
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1.5
Panthenol
0.1
Retinol
0.3
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Allantoin
0.3
Cholesterol
0.3
Sphingolipids
0.3
Phospholipids
0.3
Lecithin
0.3
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
0.3
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
0.3
Polysorbate 20
0.3
Ethylhexylglycerin
0.3
t-Butyl Alcohol
0.3
Glyceryl Stearate
0.3
Potassium Sorbate
0.3
Glyceryl Oleate
0.3
Sodium Citrate
0.3
Citric Acid
0.3
Salicylic Acid
0.3
Phenoxyethanol
0.3
Disodium EDTA
0.3
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Diglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Trideceth-9
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Cholesterol
Function:
Origin:
Sphingolipids
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
t-Butyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Oleate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Citrate
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
8.4
6
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 8.4 10
8.4
6
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
0.3
Moisturizing rating
4.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 8.4 10
8.4
All humectants
8.4
6
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
2 /10 1 0.3 0.6
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
3.1
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2 /10
when present at, %
1
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
3.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 0.9 3 No
All antioxidants
0.9
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1.5
0.3
0.3
All soothing 2.1 5 No
All soothing
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Diglycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
DiglycerinA powerful humectant that collects moisture, making skin feel hydrated and supple. Diglycerin is less sticky and a stronger humectant, but slower absorbing than standard glycerin.
Trideceth-9
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Trideceth-9Description is coming soon
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl MethoxycryleneDescription is coming soon
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
Panthenol
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) is an oil-soluble derivative of ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, with studies supporting its collagen-boosting and anti-pigment effects.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Cholesterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CholesterolAn emollient and important barrier repairing lipid, effective when combined with fatty acids and ceramides. Around 25% of the skin’s lipid layer is made up of cholesterol and it is found in the membrane of every single cell in our body.
Sphingolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SphingolipidsDescription is coming soon
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides CitrateDescription is coming soon
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A polymeric ingredient that works best in water-based formulas to create gel textures. It helps to stabilize emulsions and control viscosity.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
t-Butyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
t-Butyl AlcoholDescription is coming soon
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Glyceryl Oleate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl OleateA nonionic surfactant that can be used as an emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, and thickener in both skin cleansers and leave-on skincare products.
Sodium Citrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium CitrateA salt of citric acid that has a salty and tart flavor and is used as a fragrance. It is mildly basic, meaning that its addition to a skincare product can adjust the pH upward.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.