Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate

Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate
4.6
/ 10
Moisturizing
8.7 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.4 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
3.3Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
$$$$

Review

Results you may expect from using Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.6 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate has an anti-wrinkle rating of 3.3 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate has a moisturizing rating of 4.6 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.4 out of 10 and a very high humectancy of 8.7 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 3.3 out of 10.

It contains 3 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
  • Ectoin (est. ≈0.3%),
     an amino acid-derived ingredient with average, yet proven by one study, anti-wrinkle efficacy.
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients.
Among others, Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, and Ubiquinone. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Concentrate is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Corallina Officinalis Extract (est. ≈4.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
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Ratings

All humectants
8.7
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 8.7 10
8.7
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
4.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 8.7 10
8.7
All humectants
8.7
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.9 20
0.4
All occlusives
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
2.5 /10 2 0.3 0.4
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
3.3
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Ectoin
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
2
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Lactobacillus Ferment
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ubiquinone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
3.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 7.6 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
7.6
Corallina Officinalis Extract
4
Niacinamide
0.3
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Superoxide Dismutase
0.3
Colloidal Platinum
0.3
Malpighia Emarginata (Acerola) Fruit Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
0.3
Resveratrol
0.3
Ubiquinone
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 3 5 No
All soothing
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Corallina Officinalis Extract
Est. %4
Function
Origin
An extract from red marine alga, Corallina officinalis is used in skincare for its antioxidant properties. It also contains an immense amount of calcium and special, sulfur-containing polysaccharides.
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %2
Function
Origin
A thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Also known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Ceramide AP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Previously called Ceramide 6 II, Ceramide AP is one of the most common ceramides in the skin. Research has shown that dry, flaky skin has significantly less Ceramide AP. Its application helps to treat dry skin by restoring balance in the skin lipids.
Ceramide EOP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Formerly called Ceramide 1, this ingredient is a skin-identical wax-like lipid with an ultra-long fatty acid chain. It restores and stabilizes the skin’s lipid matrix and helps to treat dry and flaky skin, especially when combined with other ceramides.
Phytosphingosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A key component of ceramides NP, AP, and EOP. It has barrier repair properties and stimulates the production of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor. Phytosphingosine has strong antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, which can be used to treat acne.
Cholesterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An emollient and important barrier repairing lipid, effective when combined with fatty acids and ceramides. Around 25% of the skin’s lipid layer is made up of cholesterol and it is found in the membrane of every single cell in our body.
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A white crystalline powder that can reduce odors coming from other ingredients in a product.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A small synthetic peptide that increases the production of collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid in the skin. It has also been shown to reduce wrinkles in combination with other anti-aging ingredients.

Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A fatty oil expressed from the seeds of meadowfoam. It is used in skincare as an occlusive moisturizer and emollient that leaves the skin feeling soft and silky after application.
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A derivative of glucose. It is allegedly an activated form of glucose that may be able to serve as an energy source to the skin, although this claim has not been supported by any research.
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A complex of copper and two amino acids. It may stimulate the production of collagen in the skin because of the supply of copper, thus resulting in anti-wrinkle effects. This, however, has not been confirmed by studies.
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An extract derived from ribwort plantain. It mainly contains a mixture of soothing polysaccharides, antioxidant flavonoids, and anti-inflammatory aucubin. Flavonoids and aucubin are a powerful anti-microbial duo.
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Ergothioneine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Ectoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

An amino acid-derived ingredient with average, yet proven by one study, anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Lactobacillus Ferment
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A biotechnological product – a mixture of metabolic products of Lactobacillus culture. Some Lactobacillus forms have been reported to have anti-wrinkle and barrier repairing effects, as well as able to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and gloss.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A soothing extract obtained from St Paul's wort that is rich in anti-inflammatory phenolic compounds. The extract is widely used in Asian countries as a traditional remedy for inflammatory skin issues and skin-related diseases.
Rabdosia Rubescens Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.
Superoxide Dismutase
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-17
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Colloidal Platinum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Capryloyl Heptapeptide-12
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Colloidal Gold
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A version of plain lecithin that has been saturated with hydrogen atoms. This ingredient can be derived from plants, like soy or sunflower, from egg yolks, or made synthetically. Its major function is to emulsify water and oils.
Isoceteth-20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetically produced emulsifier and surfactant. It can create foam for mild cleansing or help stabilize oil-in-water emulsions.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An ingredient obtained from a bacterial culture. According to the patent holder, it produces a special glycoprotein that promotes collagen and elastin synthesis and moisturizes the skin by drawing water to it.
Proline
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The best humectant moisturizer of all the amino acids. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and increases hydration in the top layers of the skin. It also has antioxidant activity and helps to heal damaged skin.
Alanine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A simple amino acid used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient. It is a part of the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor, a complex mixture of free amino acids and other water-soluble compounds found in skin cells.
Serine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A non-essential amino acid, meaning that our body can produce it. It is the largest constituent of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and is used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient.
Malpighia Emarginata (Acerola) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An extract obtained from the fruits of acerola cherry. It is packed with potent antioxidant vitamin C and carotenoids.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

Description is coming soon

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Under trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Acetyl Tyrosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl tyrosine is a derivative of the amino acid tyrosine. It is used as a tanning agent in skincare, helping pigment cells (melanosomes) to produce more dark skin pigment.
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A blanket term used for plant-based proteins that have been processed into smaller chunks. They add to the skincare product's film-forming and water-binding properties.
Adenosine Triphosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A cellular energy source that is thought to revitalize skin cells.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An antimicrobial and antioxidant extract derived from Neem leaves – an Indian traditional medicine. Neem leaves have been found to possess antibacterial and antifungal activity. It is also a prospective anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Bacopa Monnieri Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Resveratrol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A famous plant-based polyphenol found mainly in red grapes. It is a potent antioxidant, soothing, and wound healing ingredient.
Sodium Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
This white powder is primarily used as a viscosity controlling agent. It is added to the water phase, which then thickens to form a clear gel. Sodium polyacrylate can also serve as an emollient, absorbent, and emulsion stabilizer.
Ubiquinone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Also known as Coenzyme Q10, this bright orange antioxidant supports the skin's energy metabolism. It also offers some anti-pigment action. Dietary supplementation of Ubiquinone improves the appearance of wrinkles.
Mica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A mineral powder made up of silicates with several functions (the main one being as a colorant). It has a shimmery appearance, making it highly desirable in certain cosmetic products. Mica also helps the product to apply more smoothly.