Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque Review

Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque
4.6
/ 10
Moisturizing
9.1 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.9Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 4.6 out of 10.
  • Modest anti-wrinkle efficacy: Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.9 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.6 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a very high humectancy of 9.1 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Modest Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque has a modest level of anti-wrinkle efficacy, rated 2.9 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
Among others, Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque also contains some ingredients marketed often as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Ubiquinone, and Ascorbyl Glucoside. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%) and Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract (est. ≈2.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (est. ≈6.0%), Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (est. ≈4.0%) and Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract (est. ≈2.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque to your skincare routine:
 

May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Retinol

This product contains retinol, which offers powerful anti-wrinkle benefits. The mechanism behind retinol’s action is boosting cell turnover. This process exposes new, more delicate skin, making it more vulnerable to sun damage.

As a result, using products with retinol may increase the skin's sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

To protect the skin, dermatologists recommend applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 throughout the duration of retinol treatment, along with avoiding direct sun exposure. Retinol should be used at night, as it is sensitive to sunlight and can lose its potency when exposed to UV rays.

Please always check the manufacturer's instructions for using the retinol-containing products, either on their website or product label.

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Bio-Crystal Masque to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Offers modest anti-wrinkle efficacy
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Cons: 

  • May increase skin photosensitivity due to retinol
  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Function:
Origin:
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
Function:
Origin:
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Function:
Origin:
Rabdosia Rubescens Extract
Function:
Origin:
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ubiquinone
Function:
Origin:
Lavandula Officinalis Flower Oil
Function:
Origin:
Bacopa Monnieri Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol Alginate
Function:
Origin:
Acacia Senegal Gum
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
9.1
6
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 9.1 10
9.1
6
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
4.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 9.1 10
9.1
All humectants
9.1
6
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.9
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ubiquinone
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Glucoside
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
6
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 13.3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
13.3
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
6
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
2
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract
1.5
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
1.3
Corallina Officinalis Extract
1
Niacinamide
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
0.3
Ubiquinone
0.3
Ascorbyl Glucoside
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 16 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
16
6
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceA gelatinous juice from Aloe vera leaves that acts as a powerful humectant, emollient, and antioxidant. It contains enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that soothe irritated skin and have wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit ExtractA soothing, cooling, and emollient extract derived from cucumbers. Cucumber has been used in skincare for centuries and is used to treat skin problems such as eye swelling, sunburn, and itchy and irritated skin.
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Saxifraga Sarmentosa ExtractA soothing extract obtained from the strawberry saxifrage plant. It contains antioxidant flavonoids.
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit ExtractAn extract obtained from the skin and pulp of grapes. Grape skin and pulp contain antioxidant and astringent flavonoids and tannins, famous resveratrol, and many different organic and phenolic acids.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractA powerful antioxidant, soothing, and astringent extract derived from the roots of Baikal/Chinese skullcap. It contains various unique flavonoids that are believed to soothe irritated and inflamed skin and protect from UV-induced oxidative damage.
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Corallina Officinalis ExtractAn extract from red marine alga, Corallina officinalis is used in skincare for its antioxidant properties. It also contains an immense amount of calcium and special, sulfur-containing polysaccharides.
Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl UreaHydroxyethyl urea is a synthetic derivative of regular urea (read about it here). This ingredient, similarly to urea, is humectant moisturizing and helps to retain more water to the skin’s surface, leaving it more moisturized. There aren't any studies that analyze the effects of this ingredient in great detail.
Glyceryl Caprylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl CaprylateA waxy solid derived from vegetable oils that has emollient and emulsifying properties. It is also known to boost the efficacy of organic acid preservatives by destabilizing the microbe's cell membrane.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sigesbeckia Orientalis ExtractA soothing extract obtained from St Paul's wort that is rich in anti-inflammatory phenolic compounds. The extract is widely used in Asian countries as a traditional remedy for inflammatory skin issues and skin-related diseases.
Rabdosia Rubescens Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rabdosia Rubescens Extract
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melia Azadirachta Leaf ExtractAn antimicrobial and antioxidant extract derived from Neem leaves – an Indian traditional medicine. Neem leaves have been found to possess antibacterial and antifungal activity. It is also a prospective anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Ubiquinone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
UbiquinoneAlso known as Coenzyme Q10, this bright orange antioxidant supports the skin's energy metabolism. It also offers some anti-pigment action. Dietary supplementation of Ubiquinone improves the appearance of wrinkles.
Lavandula Officinalis Flower Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lavandula Officinalis Flower Oil
Bacopa Monnieri Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bacopa Monnieri Extract
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl GlucosideA derivative of vitamin C. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. There are unfortunately no clinical studies on ascorbyl glucoside’s anti-pigment or anti-acne efficacy alone.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Propylene Glycol Alginate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Propylene Glycol Alginate
Acacia Senegal Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acacia Senegal GumA formula helper, also known as gum arabic, derived from the African Acacia tree. It is used in skincare formulas due to its good adhesive and film-forming properties.