Ascorbyl Glucoside

A derivative of vitamin C. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. There are unfortunately no clinical studies on ascorbyl glucoside’s anti-pigment or anti-acne efficacy alone.
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Ascorbyl Glucoside

What is Ascorbyl Glucoside?

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a scientifically formulated derivative of ascorbic acid or vitamin C, synthesized by combining the ascorbic acid with glucose. It is created by attaching one molecule of glucose to one molecule of ascorbic acid. This innovative ingredient provides a highly stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C, able to deliver the abundant benefits of vitamin C to the skin without the typical concerns of stability or irritation.

Ascorbyl Glucoside in Skincare

Ascorbyl glucoside has made its mark in skincare due to its excellent stability, superior to pure ascorbic acid. As a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C, it is widely used in various skincare products ranging from creams, serums to solutions.

Ascorbyl Glucoside Benefits for Skin

Ascorbyl Glucoside offers a wealth of benefits for skin health. Among them:

  1. Anti-Wrinkle. One of the critical roles of Vitamin C in the skin involves stimulating collagen production. Ascorbyl Glucoside, carrying this Vitamin C's attribute, supports collagen synthesis, leading to enhanced skin firmness and elasticity. By doing so, it helps mitigate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, offering a smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

  2. Antioxidant. As an effective derivative of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Glucoside acts as a powerful antioxidant. It neutralizes harmful free radicals from environmental aggressors such as UV rays and pollution, preventing oxidative damage to the skin cells, promoting healthier and more resilient skin.

  3. Anti-Pigmentation. Ascorbyl Glucoside is believed to be reduce skin pigmentation by inhibiting melanin production, resulting in brighter, more even-toned skin.

    There is a single clinical study performed on human volunteers using 2% ascorbyl glucoside in combination with 3,5% niacinamide to treat pigment spots. The results were promising because the active groups’ dark spots had been significantly reduced without any reported side effects.

    There are unfortunately no clinical studies on ascorbyl glucoside alone, nor any studies that compare ascorbyl glucoside to other forms and derivatives of ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl Glucoside vs Vitamin C

When comparing ascorbyl glucoside and vitamin C (ascorbic acid), both offer potent benefits for the skin. However, Ascorbyl Glucoside is less potent but more stable than pure vitamin C, meaning it doesn't degrade as quickly when exposed to light and air. This makes Ascorbyl Glucoside a more reliable ingredient in skincare products, as it retains its efficacy for a longer period.

Ascorbic acid is a fantastic antioxidant, collagen boosting, and anti-pigment ingredient with some serious stability issues. The product degrades and darkens if it is exposed to light, oxygen, or moisture. Ascorbyl glucoside is one of the derivatives created to solve this issue and it appears to be successful so far, though it has mostly only been tested in test-tube experiments.

Scientists claim that ascorbyl glucoside is stable even at a neutral pH and that it is absorbed into the deep layers of the skin and easily converted back into vitamin C, which then fulfills its role as an antioxidant and collagen booster. In all of these parameters, ascorbyl glucoside performed better than regular ascorbic acid.

Is Ascorbyl Glucoside Safe for Skin?

Ascorbyl Glucoside is considered safe for topical use. Unlike some forms of Vitamin C, it is less likely to cause irritation due to its more stable structure. Nonetheless, like any skincare product, it is advisable to conduct a patch test before incorporating it into your routine to ensure it suits your skin type.

Science

1
Stamford N. P. (2012). Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 11(4), 310–317.
2
Starr, N. J., Abdul Hamid, K., Wibawa, J., Marlow, I., Bell, M., Pérez-García, L., Barrett, D. A., & Scurr, D. J. (2019). Enhanced vitamin C skin permeation from supramolecular hydrogels, illustrated using in situ ToF-SIMS 3D chemical profiling. International journal of pharmaceutics, 563, 21–29.
3
Hakozaki, T., Takiwaki, H., Miyamoto, K., Sato, Y., & Arase, S. (2006). Ultrasound enhanced skin-lightening effect of vitamin C and niacinamide. Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI), 12(2), 105–113.