COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum

COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
7.6 Humectancy icon Humectancy
2.7 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.9Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.9 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 2.7 out of 10 and a high humectancy of 7.6 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.9 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈23.0%),
     or Vitamin C, a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, yet with average efficacy confirmed by only one study.
  • Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients.
Among others, COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Caffeine, Adenosine, and Acetyl Glucosamine. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈23.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
55
Water
23
Ascorbic Acid
4
Propanediol
3
Dimethicone
2
Tromethamine
1.5
Panthenol
1.3
Ethyl Ether
1
Squalane
0.3
Caffeine
0.3
Sodium Chloride
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Sodium Sulfite
0.3
Disodium EDTA
0.3
Glutathione
0.3
Adenosine
0.3
Acetyl Glucosamine
0.3
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
0.3
Allantoin
0.3
Dextrin
0.3
Tocotrienols
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil
0.3
Butylene Glycol
0.3
Arginine
0.3
Niacinamide
0.3
Pentylene Glycol
0.3
Alcohol Denat.
0.3
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Methyl Trimethicone
0.3
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
0.3
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
0.3
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
0.3
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Tromethamine
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Ethyl Ether
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Caffeine
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Sulfite
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Glutathione
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Glucosamine
Function:
Origin:
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Dextrin
Function:
Origin:
Tocotrienols
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Arginine
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol Denat.
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Trimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
7.6
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
5.5
3.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 7.6 10
7.6
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 5.5 20
2.7
3.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 7.6 10
7.6
All humectants
7.6
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 5.5 20
2.7
All occlusives
5.5
3.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
2.5 /10 5 23 2.5
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.9
Ascorbic Acid
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
23
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Caffeine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Acetyl Glucosamine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
23
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 26 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
26
Ascorbic Acid
23
Niacinamide
0.3
Caffeine
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Sodium Sulfite
0.3
Glutathione
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
0.3
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
0.3
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 2.4 5 No
All soothing
2.4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %55
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Ascorbic Acid
Est. %23
Function
Origin
Ascorbic Acid

Also known as vitamin C, this multi-benefit ingredient has proven anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-pigmentation efficacy. It degrades easily when exposed to air and light, so it requires proper packaging to maintain its stability.

Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Dimethicone
Est. %3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Tromethamine
Est. %2
Function
Origin
TromethamineAn ingredient based on amino acids that is commonly used as a pH adjuster. It has a high pH, which means that it is basic (alkaline), so adding tromethamine to a skincare product will increase its overall pH level.
Panthenol
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Ethyl Ether
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Ethyl EtherDescription is coming soon
Squalane
Est. %1
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Caffeine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CaffeineAn antioxidant compound that is obtained from coffee and tea leaves. It increases the microcirculation of blood in the skin and is claimed to be able to reduce the appearance of orange peel skin (although the research is lacking).
Sodium Chloride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Sodium Sulfite
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium SulfiteAn inorganic salt that defends against oxidation.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Glutathione
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlutathioneA naturally occurring tripeptide that combats free radicals and acts as a reducing agent.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Acetyl Glucosamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl GlucosamineA body-natural amino-saccharide used in skincare as an anti-pigment ingredient. Some other benefits of acetyl glucosamine include decreased skin flakiness, improved wound healing, and even a slight reduction in facial wrinkles.
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Gardenia Florida Fruit ExtractDerived from the dark orange fruits of a Chinese flowering shrub called Gardenia florida, this extract acts as a yellow pigment.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Dextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DextrinA partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.
Tocotrienols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TocotrienolsDescription is coming soon
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) OilA fatty oil expressed from the pulp of the oil palm fruits. It is mostly composed of occlusive and emollient saturated fatty acids. The unrefined oil has a large amount of antioxidant carotenoids.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Arginine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ArginineA humectant amino acid used to attract water to the skin’s surface. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Arginine can also be used as a pH adjuster.
Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Alcohol Denat.
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains additives that make it unsafe to consume. It is mainly used as a solvent and an antimicrobial agent. A major drawback to alcohol denat. is that it dries out the skin.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Methyl Trimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Methyl TrimethiconeA lightweight and volatile silicone known for its excellent solvency. This silicone has a silky, cushiony feel with excellent lubricity and is commonly used as an emollient in silicone-based skincare products.
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed OilA fatty oil pressed from safflower seeds that is used as an occlusive moisturizer and emollient. It contains unusually high amounts of linoleic acid (up to 70%), as well as antioxidant compounds such as vitamin E, phytosterols, and phenolics.
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Japonica Seed OilExtracted from the seeds of the common camellia, this fatty oil contains emollient and occlusive moisturizing oleic and linoleic acids, as well as vitamin E.
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root ExtractAn antioxidant extract derived from carrots. It is a rich source of the orange-colored beta-carotene (pro-vitamin A). Carrot root extract is often added to skincare products that are aimed at providing a better suntan.
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)An orange-red plant pigment with powerful antioxidant activity.