Alastin Restorative Skin Complex

Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
5.4
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.8 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
4.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using Alastin Restorative Skin Complex:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Alastin Restorative Skin Complex:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Alastin Restorative Skin Complex has an anti-wrinkle rating of 4.5 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Alastin Restorative Skin Complex has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.8 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%) and Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Alastin Restorative Skin Complex has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 4.5 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%),
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients.
 
Among others, Alastin Restorative Skin Complex also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Swertia Chirata Extract. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Alastin Restorative Skin Complex is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈3.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
Water
6
Glycerin
4
Propanediol
3
Niacinamide
2
Isopropyl Palmitate
1.5
Polyacrylate-13
0.3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
0.3
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
0.3
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
0.3
Acetyl Hexapeptide-38
0.3
Phosphatidylserine
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Swertia Chirata Extract
0.3
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
0.3
Ornithine
0.3
Ceramide NP
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Dunaliella Salina Extract
0.3
Phytosterols
0.3
Phospholipids
0.3
Glycolipids
0.3
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
0.3
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
0.3
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
0.3
Betaine
0.3
Squalane
0.3
Lecithin
0.3
Caprylyl Methicone
0.3
Disodium EDTA
0.3
Polysorbate 20
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Butylene Glycol
0.3
Caprylyl Glycol
0.3
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
0.3
Polyisobutene
0.3
Ethylhexylglycerin
0.3
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Isopropyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Hexapeptide-38
Function:
Origin:
Phosphatidylserine
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Swertia Chirata Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Function:
Origin:
Ornithine
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Ergothioneine
Function:
Origin:
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Function:
Origin:
Phytosterols
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Glycolipids
Function:
Origin:
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Function:
Origin:
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Function:
Origin:
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Methicone
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
15.4
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 15.4 10
10.0
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 15.4 10
10
All humectants
15.4
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
All occlusives
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 3 4.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
4.5
Niacinamide
4.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Swertia Chirata Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
4.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.4 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.4
Niacinamide
3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Dunaliella Salina Extract
0.3
Phytosterols
0.3
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
0.3
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
3
All soothing 3 5 No
All soothing
3
3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Niacinamide
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Isopropyl Palmitate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Isopropyl PalmitateAn emollient ester of palmitic acid and isopropanol that gives the skin a smooth, soft, dry, non-oily after-feel. Isopropyl palmitate is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

A short, synthetically made peptide similar to elastin fragments. It works as a signal peptide, stimulating the growth of skin cells and facilitating skin repair. It has been tested mostly in test-tube experiments so far.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

A small peptide consisting of three amino acids with anti-wrinkle effects. Together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, it is a part of the popular anti-wrinkle complex called Matrixyl™ 3000.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl HydroxythreonineA synthetically made peptide that was designed to target the dermo-epidermal junction, where it should stimulate the production of structural proteins. It has not been clinically tested yet.
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-38
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acetyl Hexapeptide-38
Phosphatidylserine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phosphatidylserine
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Swertia Chirata Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Swertia Chirata ExtractAn extract from Swertia chirata, a popular medicinal herb. The plant is a source of various skin healing compounds and has been shown to have the ability to increase skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of vertical wrinkles.
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Ornithine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
OrnithineAn amino acid that is claimed to be able to restore the adipose tissue in the skin, thereby making it look plumper and filled out. This has not been proven by studies as of yet.
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Ergothioneine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ErgothioneineA naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dunaliella Salina ExtractDerived from a species of bright red algae, this extract contains the potent antioxidant beta-carotene, as well as a humectant moisturizing glycerol.
Phytosterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhytosterolsA plant-based version of cholesterol that is used for its emollient properties in skincare. The richest sources of phytosterols are corn, rapeseed, and wheat germ oil.
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Glycolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycolipidsVarious lipids combined with one or more sugars. It can be used as an emulsifier or a very gentle cleanser.
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp ExtractA fungi extract. The mushroom contains various proteins, fiber, and humectant and antioxidant polysaccharides - which help to restore the water and collagen content in the skin.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

A famous olive oil widely used in skincare as an emollient and occlusive moisturizer. It contains mainly unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidant flavonoids, and oleuropeins. Olive oil is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterA semi-solid, buttery fat extracted from the seeds of the Shea tree that is a wonderful occlusive and emollient ingredient mainly comprised of fatty acids. Shea butter contains a large amount of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds.
Betaine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Caprylyl Methicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl MethiconeA liquid silicone with occlusive moisturizing properties. Being compatible with natural oils is a challenge for most silicones, but caprylyl methicone plays well with all types of oils.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylhydroxamic AcidA chelating agent used alongside preservatives in order to boost their antimicrobial activity.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.