Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence Review

Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence
5.4
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.8 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
0.4Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Review

Does Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.
  • Slight anti-wrinkle effect: Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence has an anti-wrinkle rating of 0.4 out of 10, so you may expect a positive, although insignificant, effect on wrinkles.

Key Benefits of Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence:
 

Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.8 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%) and Lactobionic Acid (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Slight Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 0.4 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%), 
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence also contains Lactobionic Acid, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Lactobionic Acid provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s an Exfoliator, It May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Lactic Acid

This product contains lactic acid, a popular AHA known for its ability to gently exfoliate and brighten the skin. It works by removing dead skin cells, revealing new, more delicate skin that is more vulnerable to sun damage.

In smaller quantities, lactic acid is often used as a pH adjuster and may not significantly contribute to exfoliation. However, at higher concentrations, it functions as an effective exfoliant with benefits and risks similar to other AHAs. Products with AHAs, including lactic acid, may increase skin sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

If this product is designed for exfoliation, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily is essential to protect your skin. Always check the label or the manufacturer’s website for specific usage instructions.

Pros & Cons of Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Zelens PHA+ Resurfacing Essence to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Provides slight anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons: 

  • We couldn't find any

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Lactobionic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Palm Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Bromelain
Function:
Origin:
Papain
Function:
Origin:
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Polydextrose
Function:
Origin:
Amylopectin
Function:
Origin:
Dextrin
Function:
Origin:
Fructose
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Glucose
Function:
Origin:
Benzyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Sorbate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Benzoate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
16.8
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.5
1.5
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 16.8 10
10.0
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
1.5
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 16.8 10
10
All humectants
16.8
6
4
3
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
All occlusives 1.5 20
0.8
All occlusives
1.5
1.5
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 3 -
Total
0.4
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Lactobionic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 0.9 3 No
All antioxidants
0.9
Niacinamide
0.3
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract
0.3
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1
0.3
0.3
All soothing 1.6 5 No
All soothing
1.6
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Lactobionic Acid
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Lactobionic AcidA very gentle and non-irritating PHA derived from lactic acid. It has exfoliating and humectant properties and can improve skin elasticity.
Sodium Lactate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) OilAn emollient and occlusive oil derived from sweet almonds. It has a favorable fatty acid composition (mainly oleic and linoleic acids), and a high content of vitamin E. Almond oil is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.
Palm Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Palm Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
Salicylic Acid
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Lactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Bromelain
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BromelainA mixture of enzymes extracted from the pineapple plant. It acts as a skin-softening agent and mild exfoliant by breaking down proteins.
Papain
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PapainAn enzyme that is obtained from papaya fruits. It acts as a mild exfoliant with skin-softening benefits.
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit ExtractAn extract derived from mango fruit that contains antioxidant flavonoids, carotenoids, and anthocyanins, as well as many astringent tannins. It gives a formula a nice, fruity scent.
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit ExtractAn extract from bananas that has a variety of astringent and antioxidant phenolic compounds and that has a sweet, fruity aroma.
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate FiltrateA humectant moisturizing ingredient made from Saccharomyces yeast culture that contains various enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and beta-glucan.
Polydextrose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polydextrose
Amylopectin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Amylopectin
Dextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DextrinA partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.
Fructose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FructoseA natural sugar that moisturizes the skin by drawing water to the surface.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Glucose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlucoseA simple sugar that is also one of two components of sucrose, or table sugar. It is used as a humectant in skincare products. Glucose is also used to flavor lip care cosmetics because of its mildly sweet taste.
Benzyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Benzyl Alcohol

A multifunctional ingredient that is supplied as a clear, colorless liquid. Its main function is as a flavoring agent and fragrance. It also acts as a broad-spectrum preservative, solvent, and viscosity-controlling agent that thins the product.

Potassium Sorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium SorbateA preservative widely used in food and personal care products, available from natural sources or synthetically produced. Potassium sorbate works by inhibiting the growth of yeasts, molds, and some bacteria.
Sodium Benzoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium BenzoateA preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.