The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum

The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum
5.6
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity

Review

Does The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.6 out of 10.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.6 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.2 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Retinyl Acetate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Glycolipids
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Isostearate
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
14.2
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 14.2 10
10.0
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.4 20
1.2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 14.2 10
10
All humectants
14.2
6
4
3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 2.4 20
1.2
All occlusives
2.4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 1 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Retinyl Acetate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.8 3 No
All antioxidants
1.8
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
0.3
Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
None
All soothing 0 5 No
All soothing
0
None
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Propanediol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Dicaprylyl CarbonateA very fast-spreading emollient that gives a product an incredibly lightweight feel. Dicaprylyl carbonate works well as a solvent for suspending insoluble solids such as mineral sunscreens or iron oxide pigments.
Dimethicone
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Retinyl Acetate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Retinyl AcetateAn esterified vitamin A that has improved stability. It is not yet known if it gets converted into retinoic acid in the skin or if has the same anti-aging properties as retinol.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA multi-functional ingredient that forms a polymeric network, thereby thickening the formula and preventing other ingredients from shifting around.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilAn occlusive moisturizing oil expressed from soybeans. It does not leave an oily feeling on the skin due to its low content of saturated fatty acids. Glycine soja oil contains emollient fatty acids and a significant amount of antioxidants.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Glycolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycolipidsVarious lipids combined with one or more sugars. It can be used as an emulsifier or a very gentle cleanser.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateThe newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Sorbitan Isostearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan IsostearateA mild yet powerful emulsifier primarily utilized to produce water-in-oil emulsions. It helps to create a particularly rich and substantial emulsion.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) SterolsA mixture of phytosterols isolated from soybean oil. Phytosterols, when used in skincare products, have emollient properties and can make the skin feel softer and smoother.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateA lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. According to a recent clinical study, THDA has all the capabilities of regular vitamin C, including anti-wrinkle and anti-pigment activity.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hyaluronic Acid

A potent, skin-identical humectant moisturizing ingredient that is able to bind water 1000 times its own weight. The anti-aging benefits of hyaluronic acid are due to its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

Sodium Lactate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

A small peptide consisting of three amino acids with anti-wrinkle effects. Together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, it is a part of the popular anti-wrinkle complex called Matrixyl™ 3000.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

A synthetic peptide that mimics the activity of immunoglobulin G and signals to the skin to stop the inflammation. It has been shown in studies to reduce wrinkles and enhance collagen content.