Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential Review

Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.3Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
  • Modest anti-wrinkle efficacy: Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.3 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Modest Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential has a modest level of anti-wrinkle efficacy, rated 2.3 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Niacinamide (est. ≈1.5%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈0.3%),
     a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).
Among others, Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential also contains Adenosine, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Adenosine provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract (est. ≈6.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈1.5%), Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (est. ≈1.3%), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract (est. ≈1.0%), and others.

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential to your skincare routine:
 

May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Glycolic Acid

This product contains glycolic acid, a popular AHA known for its ability to exfoliate and brighten the skin. Its action works by removing dead skin cells, revealing new, more delicate skin that is particularly vulnerable to sun damage.

As a result, using products with glycolic acid, regardless of concentration, may increase the skin's sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

To counteract this increased sun sensitivity, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily to protect your skin during glycolic acid treatment.

Please always check the manufacturer's instructions for using the product, either on their website or product label.

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Essential to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Offers modest anti-wrinkle efficacy
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients like Niacinamide and Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Cons: 

  • May increase skin photosensitivity due to glycolic acid
  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol Denat.
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Arginine
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Function:
Origin:
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Function:
Origin:
Glycolic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Hizikia Fusiforme Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Maackia Fauriei Stem Extract
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Sucrose
Function:
Origin:
Glucose
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Cellulose Gum
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Molasses
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Caramel
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.4
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.4 10
10.0
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 11.4 10
10
All humectants
11.4
4
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 1.5 2.2
1.5 /10 5 0.3 0.1
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.3
Niacinamide
2.2
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
1.5
Glycolic Acid
0.1
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
6
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 11.6 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
11.6
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
6
Niacinamide
1.5
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
1.3
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
1
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
0.3
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
0.3
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract
0.3
Maackia Fauriei Stem Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 5.9 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
5.9
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) ExtractAn antioxidant extract from sugar maple bark and sap – the same sweet sap used to make maple syrup. It has a faint vanilla smell and is used in skincare for its exfoliating properties. This is because of the small sugar crystals present in the extract.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Alcohol Denat.
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains additives that make it unsafe to consume. It is mainly used as a solvent and an antimicrobial agent. A major drawback to alcohol denat. is that it dries out the skin.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Niacinamide
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem ExtractA soothing and antioxidant extract from prickly pear succulent stems. These stems contain a cooling and anti-inflammatory watery gel that is similar to aloe.
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) ExtractAn extract obtained from the twigs and/or leaves of witch hazel. It is one of the oldest skincare remedies known to man. It is astringent and sebum regulating, meaning that it controls the amount of sebum that the skin produces.
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) ExtractAn extract obtained from the whole German chamomile plant that contains nice-smelling chamazulene and bisabolol, as well as large amounts of soothing mucilage.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractDerived from Aloe vera leaves, this moisturizing humectant, soothing, and antioxidant extract is commonly used in products targeting eczema, sunburn, or dermatitis. It soothes the skin and reduces the signs of inflammation and sensitivity.
Arginine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ArginineA humectant amino acid used to attract water to the skin’s surface. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Arginine can also be used as a pH adjuster.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract

A fragrant extract from lemon peels that contains various antioxidant flavonoids, organic acids, and limonoids – which are currently under investigation as potential anti-wrinkle and anti-pigment compounds.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit ExtractAn extract derived from apple fruit that has humectant moisturizing and antioxidant properties, as well as gentle anti-pigment effects. It contains humectant sugars, anti-pigment organic acids, and flavonoids.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

An extract from the fruit of the sweet orange. It contains fragrant sweet orange essential oil, high amounts of antioxidant flavonoids (mainly hesperidin), and carotenoids – which give it the orange color.

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit ExtractA soothing extract obtained derived from the papaya fruit. It contains a skin softening and mildly exfoliating enzyme called papain, as well as various anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds that can assist in the wound healing process.
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilA white paste-like substance derived from castor oil that belongs to a group of ingredients called PEGs (polyethylene glycols). It acts as a perfume solubilizer that helps fragrance agents dissolve in water and as a cleansing agent.
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Glycolic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycolic Acid

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hizikia Fusiforme Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Maackia Fauriei Stem Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Maackia Fauriei Stem Extract
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Sucrose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SucroseThis ingredient is more commonly known as table sugar or saccharose and is derived from sugar beets or sugar cane. It is used as a humectant moisturizing ingredient in skincare products, as well as a sweetener.
Glucose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlucoseA simple sugar that is also one of two components of sucrose, or table sugar. It is used as a humectant in skincare products. Glucose is also used to flavor lip care cosmetics because of its mildly sweet taste.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Cellulose Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cellulose GumA polymer that is derived from its namesake, cellulose, which is plant-based. It has many formula-helper benefits, including thickening and product stabilization.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Sodium PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Molasses
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Molasses
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Caramel
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CaramelA natural ingredient that is derived from the heat treatment of table sugar. Caramel is used in skincare as a natural colorant that can create transparent, dark brown solutions. It also works as a fragrance, where it provides a sweet, sugary scent.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.