Payot Pate Grise Nuit Review

Payot Pate Grise Nuit
3.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
7.5 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
4.2Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Review

Does Payot Pate Grise Nuit Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Payot Pate Grise Nuit has to offer:
 
  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Payot Pate Grise Nuit has an anti-wrinkle rating of 4.2 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.

Key Benefits of Payot Pate Grise Nuit

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Payot Pate Grise Nuit:
 

Lightweight Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Payot Pate Grise Nuit is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.2 out of 10 and a high humectancy of 7.5 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈6.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It can also be a good option for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Considerable Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Payot Pate Grise Nuit has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 4.2 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Asiaticoside (est. ≈0.3%),
     derived from the plant Centella asiatica, an ingredient with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy, as confirmed by a single clinical study involving 27 participants (Lee et al.). This study demonstrated that a cream containing 0.1% asiaticoside reduced the average wrinkle depth by 8% after 12 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without asiaticoside).
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈4.0%),
     a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).
Among others, Payot Pate Grise Nuit also contains contains Madecassic Acid and Asiatic Acid, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Pros & Cons of Payot Pate Grise Nuit

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Payot Pate Grise Nuit to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing enhancement for any skincare routine
  • Provides considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy

Cons: 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Glycolic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-100 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder
Function:
Origin:
Smithsonite Extract
Function:
Origin:
Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Arginine
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Asiaticoside
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Madecassic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Asiatic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Isostearate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Fragrance
Function:
Origin:
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Function:
Origin:
Blue 1 (CI 42090)
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
7.5
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 7.5 10
7.5
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
0.3
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 7.5 10
7.5
All humectants
7.5
6
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
3 /10 0.1 0.3 3
1.5 /10 5 4 1.2
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
4.2
Asiaticoside
3
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
3 /10
when present at, %
0.1
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Glycolic Acid
1.2
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
4
Madecassic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Asiatic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
4.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.2 3 No
All antioxidants
1.2
Asiaticoside
0.3
Smithsonite Extract
0.3
Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Propanediol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Glycolic Acid
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycolic Acid

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
PEG-100 Stearate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PEG-100 StearateThis surfactant is more specifically classified as an emulsifier that produces oil-in-water emulsions. PEG-100 stearate can also be used as a cleansing agent.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA polymeric ingredient that creates lightweight and refreshing gel textures. It also works as a viscosity controlling agent.
Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder
Smithsonite Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Smithsonite Extract
Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract
Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lepidium Sativum Sprout ExtractA pungently fragrant extract derived from cress. It that is rich in sulfur and contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoids, carotenoids, and organic acids.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Arginine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ArginineA humectant amino acid used to attract water to the skin’s surface. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Arginine can also be used as a pH adjuster.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Asiaticoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiaticoside

A Gotu Kola or Centella Asiatica derivative with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Madecassic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Madecassic AcidAn isolated bioactive compound from Gotu Kola. It increases collagen and hyaluronic acid production in the skin and helps to treat wounds, scars, and burns.
Asiatic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiatic AcidA compound isolated from Gotu Kola, a promising anti-wrinkle medicinal plant from Southeast Asia. It is claimed to increase the production of collagen and help with the wound healing process.
Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Sorbitan Isostearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan IsostearateA mild yet powerful emulsifier primarily utilized to produce water-in-oil emulsions. It helps to create a particularly rich and substantial emulsion.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Fragrance
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FragranceUnder trade secret law, manufacturers have the right not to disclose what exactly went into the fragrance and use the unspecific word Fragrance or Parfum instead. Many fragrances are highly allergenic.
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)A bright yellow colorant that is often also listed as FD&C Yellow 5.
Blue 1 (CI 42090)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Blue 1 (CI 42090)A synthetic dye commonly known as Brilliant Blue FCF that produces rich blue colors for various cosmetic uses. FD&C Blue #1 can also be found in foods, medications, and dietary supplements, as it is considered non-toxic and safe for use.