Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel

Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
8.5 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.8 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
4Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel has an anti-wrinkle rating of 4.0 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.8 out of 10 and a very high humectancy of 8.5 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Lactose (est. ≈4.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 4.0 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈10.0%),
     a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).
Among others, Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel also contains Adenosine, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Adenosine provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
10
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycolic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Lactose
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Arbutin
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Ceteareth-20
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Function:
Origin:
Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Function:
Origin:
Plankton Extract
Function:
Origin:
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Triethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Isopulegol
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
8.5
4
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.6
3.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 8.5 10
8.5
4
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.6 20
1.8
3.0
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 8.5 10
8.5
All humectants
8.5
4
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 3.6 20
1.8
All occlusives
3.6
3.0
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
1.5 /10 5 10 1.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
4
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Glycolic Acid
1.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
10
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.5 3 No
All antioxidants
2.5
Arbutin
1
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
0.3
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 0.9 5 No
All soothing
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycolic Acid
Est. %10
Function
Origin
Glycolic Acid

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Lactose
Est. %4
Function
Origin
LactoseLactose is a sugar consisting of glucose and galactose and is commonly found in milk. It is used as a water-attracting, humectant moisturizing ingredient in skincare products that also absorbs unpleasant odors.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Propanediol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Neopentyl Glycol DiethylhexanoateNeopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate is a blend of neopentyl glycol, an organic chemical compound used in production of lubricants, and hexanoic fatty acid. The ingredient has similar properties to its brother - Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate. It also serves as an emollient or a formula thickness adjuster.
Glycerin
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Arbutin
Est. %1
Function
Origin
ArbutinOne of the few potent anti-pigment compounds found naturally in bearberry or cranberry leaves. When applied to the skin, this ingredient converts into hydroquinone, with tyrosinase inhibiting effects.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
PEG-40 Stearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-40 StearateThis PEG, or polyethylene glycol, is excellent at emulsifying water and oil together to form oil-in-water emulsions. Due to its water-loving nature, PEG-40 stearate can also act as a cleansing agent.
Ceteareth-20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceteareth-20A fatty alcohol emulsifier that helps to mix oil and water together, best for oil-in-water emulsions. It is also a cleansing agent. When combined with cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 forms a mix that, according to acne.org, can be comedogenic.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneA type of spherical powder that functions on a ball-bearing effect in which the tiny microspheres roll around on the skin and create lubricity. Polymethylsilsesquioxane offers extra slip to skincare products and makes the skin feel soft and smooth.
Plankton Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Plankton ExtractAn extract from a mixture of various tiny marine animals, algae, seaweeds, and microscopic organisms jointly called plankton. One patent refers to it as a moisturizing humectant ingredient.
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Cetyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl PalmitateA moisturizing occlusive and emollient wax ester that consists of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid. In nature, cetyl palmitate is found, and was first identified, in spermaceti, a waxy substance from inside the skull of the sperm whale.
Triethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TriethanolamineA clear, colorless, and highly viscous liquid, this ingredient is an excellent pH adjuster. When it is necessary to neutralize an acidic solution or to generally increase the pH of a product, triethanolamine is a common choice.
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Isopulegol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Isopulegol
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed ExtractAn antioxidant, soothing, and wound healing extract derived from soybeans. Soybeans are a famous source of phytoestrogens - plant compounds that have a similar effect to steroid hormones.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium Aluminum SilicateA naturally occurring clay that is hygroscopic, which means that it easily absorbs water. This ingredient is thus commonly used as an absorbent and emulsion stabilizer. It also modifies slip by improving the spreadability of the products it is used in.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) ExtractAn extract obtained from Giant kelp that is rich in gel-forming and thickening polysaccharides.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidA smaller-molecule version of the regular hyaluronic acid. It is a powerful humectant that absorbs into the skin and offers moisturizing, smoothing, and anti-wrinkle effects. It is also slightly anti-inflammatory and displays subtle antioxidant properties.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.