Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair

Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair
3.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
0.9 Humectancy icon Humectancy
6.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
0.6Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair:

  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.
  • Little anti-wrinkle effect: Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair has an anti-wrinkle rating of 0.6 out of 10, so you may expect a positive, although insignificant, effect on wrinkles.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Lightly moisturizing: Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair has a moisturizing rating of 3.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more occlusive. It has a low Humectancy of 0.9 out of 10 and a high Occlusivity of 6.6 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Dimethicone (est. ≈11.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair has a minimal anti-wrinkle rating of 0.6 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (est. ≈0.3%),
 the only derivative of Ascorbic acid with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy. This ingredient has below-average efficacy, proven by one study.
 
Among others, Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair also contains Ascorbyl Palmitate, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Ascorbyl Palmitate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Tocopheryl Acetate (est. ≈4.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
50
Cyclopentasiloxane
22
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
11
Dimethicone
6
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
4
Tocopheryl Acetate
1
Bisabolol
1
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
1
Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran
1
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil
0.3
Butylene Glycol
0.3
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
0.3
Glycerin
0.3
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
0.3
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
0.3
Pentylene Glycol
0.3
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
0.3
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
0.3
Emu Oil
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
0.3
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
0.3
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.3
Water
Est. %
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran
Function:
Origin:
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Emu Oil
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
13.2
11.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 0.9 10
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 13.2 20
6.6
11.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
3.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 0.9 10
0.9
All humectants
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
11
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 13.2 20
6.6
All occlusives
13.2
11.0
1.0
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
2 /10 1 0.3 0.6
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0.6
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2 /10
when present at, %
1
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
4
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 6.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
6.5
Tocopheryl Acetate
4
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
1
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
0.3
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 4.1 5 No
All soothing
4.1
1
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %50
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Est. %22
Function
Origin
Dimethicone CrosspolymerA group of ingredients that are typically added to skincare products to adjust the formula. Dimethicone Crosspolymers stabilize a formula, regulate its thickness and consistency and give the product a velvety feel.
Dimethicone
Est. %11
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl DimethiconeA powerful emulsifier with the unique trait of being able to work in both oil- and silicone-based formulas. It can also function as a thickener in low concentrations.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Bisabolol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
BisabololAn anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root ExtractA fragrant and anti-inflammatory extract derived from ginger roots. It is a major part of Chinese traditional medicine. In can increase blood circulation, which helps with skin healing and skin metabolism.
Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Avena Sativa (Oat) BranDescription is coming soon
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel OilDescription is coming soon
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Boerhavia Diffusa Root ExtractA soothing extract derived from punarnava, an Ayurvedic herb. It contains anti-inflammatory and wound healing rotenoids, terpenoids, and organic acids.
Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel ExtractA beneficial extract obtained from Oat groats popular in products aimed at eczema-prone skin. It contains skin healing beta-glucan, anti-inflammatory phenolic compounds, antioxidant flavonoids, various lipids, proteins, and moisturizing amino acids.
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Stearyl GlycyrrhetinateA plant compound obtained from licorice root. It is a powerful soothing ingredient that acts similar to steroid hormones and helps to treat inflamed and irritated skin.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic AcidDescription is coming soon
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) OilAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient fatty oil expressed from the seeds of a yellow-flowered plant which often opens its flowers in the evening (hence the name). It is light and suitable for problematic, eczematous, and inflammation-prone skin.
Emu Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Emu OilDescription is coming soon
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Borago Officinalis Seed OilA fatty emollient and occlusive oil expressed from the seeds of borage flowers. It has a uniquely high content of a rare gamma-linolenic acid and also contains squalene, phytosterols, and vitamin E.
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol EstersDescription is coming soon
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) is an oil-soluble derivative of ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, with studies supporting its collagen-boosting and anti-pigment effects.

Water
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.