Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum

Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum
5.5
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity

Review

Does Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.0 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Ethoxydiglycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica BioLumin-C Vitamin C Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Trehalose
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Methylpropanediol
Function:
Origin:
Chondrus Crispus
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Isostearate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
19.0
6
4
3
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 19.0 10
10.0
6
4
3
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 19.0 10
10
All humectants
19.0
6
4
3
2
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.7 3 No
All antioxidants
2.7
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
1.5
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Lactic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Salvia Hispanica Seed OilAn oil extracted from Chia seeds. It has a unique ratio of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, making it the richest source of polyunsaturated fatty acids. It also contains antioxidant phytosterols and tocopherols (vitamin E).
Sodium PCA
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphateOne of the most recent vitamin C derivatives. Although the manufacturer claims it has all the powers of ascorbic acid (e.g., it is collagen-boosting and able to treat hyperpigmentation), this has not been proven in scientific studies.
Trehalose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TrehaloseA sweet-tasting saccharide that can be found in various yeasts and fungi and that is manufactured from starch for cosmetic purposes. It is one of the most popular sugars in skincare and is mainly used for its humectant properties.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil

This oil is obtained from the peels of pink grapefruits. It contains fragrant limonene, which gives the oil a fresh and clean, citrusy scent.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Methylpropanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethylpropanediolMethylpropanediol is a unique glycol that contains two primary hydroxyl groups. That makes methylpropanediol a powerful humectant and an excellent solvent.
Chondrus Crispus
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chondrus CrispusAn ingredient obtained from the red marine algae Irish moss. It contains a gel-forming algal polysaccharide carrageenan and is a rich source of antimicrobial iodine and sulfur. It also offers various antioxidants.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl PolyacrylateA synthetic thickening polymer that can be used in a variety of product types. This polymer can feel lightweight but can also stand up to heavier ingredients in products like body butters.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Sorbitan Isostearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan IsostearateA mild yet powerful emulsifier primarily utilized to produce water-in-oil emulsions. It helps to create a particularly rich and substantial emulsion.