The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum

The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum
5.5
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.0 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Some anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinol (est. ≈0.1%), 
 the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
 
Among others, The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum also contains some ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Sodium Ascorbate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Ascorbate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Glycolipids
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Function:
Origin:
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
14.6
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 14.6 10
10.0
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
All humectants 14.6 10
10
All humectants
14.6
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Sodium Ascorbate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.8 3 No
All antioxidants
1.8
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract
0.3
Sodium Ascorbate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Propanediol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Dicaprylyl CarbonateA very fast-spreading emollient that gives a product an incredibly lightweight feel. Dicaprylyl carbonate works well as a solvent for suspending insoluble solids such as mineral sunscreens or iron oxide pigments.
Dimethicone
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) ExtractExtracted from soybeans, this ingredient contains antioxidant and soothing phytochemicals and is especially suitable for aging skin.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarbomerA synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Sodium Ascorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium AscorbateA well-researched sodium salt of vitamin C. It has antioxidant, collagen-boosting, and pigment-improving properties. It degrades very easily when exposed to air and needs careful packaging.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Glycolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycolipidsVarious lipids combined with one or more sugars. It can be used as an emulsifier or a very gentle cleanser.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateThe newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) SterolsA mixture of phytosterols isolated from soybean oil. Phytosterols, when used in skincare products, have emollient properties and can make the skin feel softer and smoother.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateA biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hyaluronic Acid

A potent, skin-identical humectant moisturizing ingredient that is able to bind water 1000 times its own weight. The anti-aging benefits of hyaluronic acid are due to its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

A synthetic peptide that mimics the activity of immunoglobulin G and signals to the skin to stop the inflammation. It has been shown in studies to reduce wrinkles and enhance collagen content.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

A small peptide consisting of three amino acids with anti-wrinkle effects. Together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, it is a part of the popular anti-wrinkle complex called Matrixyl™ 3000.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.