The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum

The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum
5.5
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.5Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
$$$$

Review

Results you may expect from using The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.5 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.0 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Propanediol (est. ≈3.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.5 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Retinol (est. ≈0.1%), 
 the most effective non-prescription ingredient with well-proven efficacy to reduce wrinkles.
 
Among others, The INKEY List Retinol Anti-Aging Serum also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Sodium Ascorbate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
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Ratings

All humectants
14.6
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 14.6 10
10.0
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
1.5
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
All humectants 14.6 10
10
All humectants
14.6
6
4
3
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
1.5
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 2.1 20
1.0
All occlusives
2.1
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.5
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Sodium Ascorbate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.5
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.8 3 No
All antioxidants
1.8
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract
0.3
Sodium Ascorbate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Propanediol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
An excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
A very fast-spreading emollient that gives a product an incredibly lightweight feel. Dicaprylyl carbonate works well as a solvent for suspending insoluble solids such as mineral sunscreens or iron oxide pigments.
Dimethicone
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
The most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
An emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
An emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Description is coming soon
Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Extracted from soybeans, this ingredient contains antioxidant and soothing phytochemicals and is especially suitable for aging skin.
Carbomer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic ingredient with the ability to gel water. When used in emulsions, such as lotions and creams, carbomer can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.
Sodium Ascorbate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A well-researched sodium salt of vitamin C. It has antioxidant, collagen-boosting, and pigment-improving properties. It degrades very easily when exposed to air and needs careful packaging.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Glycolipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Various lipids combined with one or more sugars. It can be used as an emulsifier or a very gentle cleanser.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A mixture of phytosterols isolated from soybean oil. Phytosterols, when used in skincare products, have emollient properties and can make the skin feel softer and smoother.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A biotechnological fermentation ingredient that is created by feeding radish root to Leuconostoc kimchii. It allegedly contains organic acids and a mixture of peptides known as bacteriocins – which have antimicrobial activity.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A potent, skin-identical humectant moisturizing ingredient that is able to bind water 1000 times its own weight. The anti-aging benefits of hyaluronic acid are due to its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A synthetic peptide that mimics the activity of immunoglobulin G and signals to the skin to stop the inflammation. It has been shown in studies to reduce wrinkles and enhance collagen content.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin

A small peptide consisting of three amino acids with anti-wrinkle effects. Together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, it is a part of the popular anti-wrinkle complex called Matrixyl™ 3000.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
The most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.