Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment

Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment
4.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
4.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
4.3 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.6Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.2 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.6 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Suitable moisturizer for normal skin with a relatively lightweight texture

According to CreamScan analysis, Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? This product has relatively comparable levels of humectancy and occlusivity: a moderate humectancy of 4.0 out of 10, entirely due to the substantial concentration of Glycerin (est. ≈4.0%), and a moderate occlusivity of 4.3 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (est. ≈6.0%).

This type of moisturizer can work well for people with normal skin. It combines a moderate amount of humectants and occlusive ingredients to provide dual-action moisturizing for normal skin.

However, it contains a moderate level of humectants, and people with normal skin would definitely benefit from adding more humectants to their moisturizing routine beyond what this product offers. If this is your only moisturizer, it may be worth including a humectant-rich product, such as a serum, in your skincare routine.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Some anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.6 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Retinol (est. ≈0.1%),
     the most effective non-prescription anti-wrinkle ingredient. Numerous clinical studies have shown its positive effects at concentrations as low as 0.1%. A study with 36 participants (Kafi et al.) confirmed that a lotion containing 0.4% retinol reduced wrinkle severity by 21% after 24 weeks of use, compared to the same formulation without retinol (vehicle).
  • Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈0.3%),
     or Vitamin C, a popular ingredient, yet with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy, as confirmed by a single clinical study involving 20 participants (Humbert et al.). This study showed that a cream with a relatively high concentration of 5% ascorbic acid reduced the average wrinkle depth by 7% after 6 months of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without ascorbic acid).
Among others, Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment also contains Ascorbyl Palmitate, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Ascorbyl Palmitate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Ricinoleate
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Benzyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Retinol
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Stearic Acid
Function:
Origin:
PEG-10 Soy Sterol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Function:
Origin:
Cyclohexasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Methylparaben
Function:
Origin:
Triethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Propyl Gallate
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
4.0
4
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
8.6
6.0
1.3
1.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 4 10
4.0
4
Occlusivity All occlusives 8.6 20
4.3
6.0
1.3
1.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
4.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
All humectants 4 10
4
All humectants
4.0
4
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
6
1.3
1
0.3
All occlusives 8.6 20
4.3
All occlusives
8.6
6.0
1.3
1.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
10 /10 0.4 0.1 2.5
2.5 /10 5 0.3 0.1
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.6
Retinol
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
10 /10
when present at, %
0.4
in this formula, est. %
0.1
Ascorbic Acid
0.1
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.5 3 No
All antioxidants
1.5
Ascorbic Acid
0.3
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
BHT
0.3
Propyl Gallate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Glycerin
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Est. %2
Function
Origin
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol EstersA mixture of lipids isolated from lanolin. They are similar to the lipids from the skin’s lipid barrier. It is a very good emollient and leaves a shiny and glossy finish on the skin.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Dimethicone
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Cetyl Ricinoleate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Cetyl Ricinoleate
Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Benzyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Benzyl Alcohol

A multifunctional ingredient that is supplied as a clear, colorless liquid. Its main function is as a flavoring agent and fragrance. It also acts as a broad-spectrum preservative, solvent, and viscosity-controlling agent that thins the product.

Retinol
Est. %0.1
Function
Origin
Retinol

One of the most famous and well-researched anti-aging ingredients with a maximum anti-wrinkle power of 10 out of 10. It is proven to decrease wrinkles and help the skin regain its thickness, firmness, and texture. Retinol is also effective in treating pigmentation issues such as dark spots and acne.

Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Stearic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Stearic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in vegetable butter and animal fats. It is an occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient and also helps to maintain the barrier function of the skin.
PEG-10 Soy Sterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-10 Soy Sterol
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium Aluminum SilicateA naturally occurring clay that is hygroscopic, which means that it easily absorbs water. This ingredient is thus commonly used as an absorbent and emulsion stabilizer. It also modifies slip by improving the spreadability of the products it is used in.
Cyclohexasiloxane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CyclohexasiloxaneA clear silicone fluid with very low viscosity that is commonly used as a solvent and emollient. It has excellent spreadability, rubs in quickly, and leaves a silky smooth after-feel on the skin.
Methylparaben
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethylparabenA preservative that keeps a product unspoiled. There has been a lot of controversy surrounding parabens, although the concentrations found in cosmetic formulations are generally considered to be safe.
Triethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TriethanolamineA clear, colorless, and highly viscous liquid, this ingredient is an excellent pH adjuster. When it is necessary to neutralize an acidic solution or to generally increase the pH of a product, triethanolamine is a common choice.
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Propyl Gallate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Propyl GallateA semi-synthetic antioxidant manufactured from plant-based gallic acid. It protects the oils in the formulation from degrading and going rancid.
Ascorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbic Acid

Also known as vitamin C, this multi-benefit ingredient has proven anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-pigmentation efficacy. It degrades easily when exposed to air and light, so it requires proper packaging to maintain its stability.