Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment Review

Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
6Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment has to offer:
 
✅ Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
✅ Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment is effective in minimizing wrinkles.
✅ Soothing: Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
✅ Antioxidant protection

  

Key Benefits of Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment:
 

🔵 Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Niacinamide (est. ≈20.0%), Pentylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

📌 Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

💧 A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

🟣🟣 Significant Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment has a high anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈20.0%),
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment also contains some ingredients marketed often as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.
 
While this does not categorically rule out the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were available to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.
 
Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

🍀 Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈20.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

🔴 Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈20.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

📌 Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment to your skincare routine:
 

⚠️ If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

🟩 Pros:

✅ When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
✅ As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
✅ Lightweight texture
Delivers signficant anti-wrinkle efficacy thanks to Niacinamide
✅ Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
✅ Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, specifically Niacinamide
 

⭕ Cons: 

⚠️ Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants
   

Summary: Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

 
Based on the ingredient list analysis, CreamScan AI suggests that Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment
 is specifically effective in treating wrinkles, containing ingredients with solid, robust evidence of anti-wrinkle efficacy.
 

When used alone, it delivers lightweight, humectant-rich moisturizing, making it ideal for oily skin. As part of a moisturizing routine, it provides a humectant boost, beneficial for all skin types.

Rich in antioxidants, Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment helps protect against free radical damage and offers multiple benefits for all skin types, including preventing premature aging, defending against environmental damage, and calming inflammation. This product is also formulated with a high concentration of soothing ingredients, offering the potential to calm and comfort irritated skin. Whether you’re experiencing redness, irritation, or general sensitivity, its soothing properties may help restore balance and provide relief.
 
That said, there are some things about Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment worth noting.
 
Looking at its moisturizing profile, we found that it doesn’t contain any occlusive ingredients, potentially allowing the moisture attracted to the skin by humectants to evaporate. Therefore, if it’s used as the only moisturizer in a routine, it’s recommended to pair it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones.
 
📌 Fact check. At CreamScan, we are committed to accuracy and fairness. If you spot any errors or something that doesn’t seem right, please click here to let us know. We regularly update the ingredient lists and monitor the latest research on ingredient efficacy to ensure that our information remains as complete and precise as possible. The information provided here is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional advice. We do not guarantee the efficacy or safety of any product, as individual results may vary.

 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
20
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Acetyl Glucosamine
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
Function:
Origin:
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Function:
Origin:
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Pullulan
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Silica
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Sclerotium Gum
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Phytate
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
32.1
20
4
3
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 32.1 10
10.0
20
4
3
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
20
4
3
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 32.1 10
10
All humectants
32.1
20
4
3
2
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 20 6
n/a
- 1.5 -
n/a
- 1.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
6
Niacinamide
6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
20
Acetyl Glucosamine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1.5
Ascorbyl Glucoside
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
20
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 23.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
23.5
Niacinamide
20
Ascorbyl Glucoside
1.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
1
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
0.3
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
0.3
Epigallocatechin Gallate
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
20
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 23.1 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
23.1
20
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Niacinamide
Est. %20
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Glycerin
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Acetyl Glucosamine
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Acetyl GlucosamineA body-natural amino-saccharide used in skincare as an anti-pigment ingredient. Some other benefits of acetyl glucosamine include decreased skin flakiness, improved wound healing, and even a slight reduction in facial wrinkles.
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl GlucosideA derivative of vitamin C. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. There are unfortunately no clinical studies on ascorbyl glucoside’s anti-pigment or anti-acne efficacy alone.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Spiraea Ulmaria ExtractA soothing and astringent extract derived from Meadowsweet flowers. It contains a plant version of anti-inflammatory salicylic acid - salicin.
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Portulaca Oleracea ExtractDerived from green or common purslane, this moisturizing extract is particularly rich in alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid, and contains antioxidant glutathione and vitamin E. As a herbal medicine, it is believed to treat headaches and inflammation.
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Japonica Flower ExtractAn extract obtained from the flowers of the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidant flavonoids and anthocyanins.
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Epigallocatechin GallateA bioactive compound isolated from green tea with numerous beneficial effects. It is an astringent and antioxidant and can help the skin to heal, reduce redness, and treat UV-induced damage.
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Boerhavia Diffusa Root ExtractA soothing extract derived from punarnava, an Ayurvedic herb. It contains anti-inflammatory and wound healing rotenoids, terpenoids, and organic acids.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
Pullulan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pullulan
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Silica
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SilicaA widely used cosmetic ingredient with the same chemical composition as the sand found on beaches. A common function of silica is its ability to control viscosity. In certain chemical forms, it can effectively thicken cream-style products.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclerotium GumA thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Sodium Phytate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PhytateSodium phytate is a chelating agent that serves to remove heavy metal ions from water. Removing metal ions helps other ingredients, such as antioxidants and preservatives, to perform better and keep products from separating.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.