Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
2.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
2.7 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers

Review

Does Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster:

  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 2.2 out of 10.
  • Soothing: Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

Slight Moisturizing When Used Alone

According to CreamScan analysis, Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 2.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? This product has relatively comparable levels of Humectancy and Occlusivity: a low Humectancy of 2.7 out of 10 and a low Occlusivity of 1.6 out of 10.

This type of product provides relatively light moisturizing on its own but can contribute to overall moisturizing efficacy when used as part of a skincare routine, alongside another moisturizer.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Adenosine, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Adenosine provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Skin soothing and calming potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Azelaic Acid (est. ≈10.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
10
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Cetearyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Stearate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Sclerotium Gum
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
2.7
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
2.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 2.7 10
2.7
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
3.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
2.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 2.7 10
2.7
All humectants
2.7
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
All antioxidants 0.3 3 No
All antioxidants
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
10
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 11.5 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
11.5
10
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %10
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Est. %4
Function
Origin
C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateA synthetic emollient ester. It works to improve the appearance of the skin by filling in the microcracks on the surface, thereby making the skin appear softer and smoother. It imparts a lightweight, velvety feel.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Methyl Glucose SesquistearateAn ultra gentle emulsifier that can be used in many products to blend oils and water together while providing a light film on the skin.
Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Cetearyl Alcohol
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Cetearyl AlcoholA blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohols that are derived from palm oil. It helps to create emulsions that give off a soft and silky emollient feel and also increase product thickness.
Glyceryl Stearate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Glyceryl StearateAn emollient and emulsifier typically derived from vegetable sources through a chemical reaction with glycerin. It provides stability, texture, and consistency to formulations. Its main function is to allow oil and water to mix.
Dimethicone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Boerhavia Diffusa Root ExtractA soothing extract derived from punarnava, an Ayurvedic herb. It contains anti-inflammatory and wound healing rotenoids, terpenoids, and organic acids.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclerotium GumA thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.