NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence Review

NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
0.4Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.
  • Slight anti-wrinkle effect: NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence has an anti-wrinkle rating of 0.4 out of 10, so you may expect a positive, although insignificant, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

Key Benefits of NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate (est. ≈22.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Slight Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 0.4 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%), 
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence also contains contains Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Adenosine, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Bifida Ferment Lysate (est. ≈40.0%) and Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate (est. ≈22.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine
  • Provides slight anti-wrinkle efficacy
  • Contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help reduce irritation and soothe the skin

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
40
22
11
6
4
3
2
1.5
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Function:
Origin:
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Function:
Origin:
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Function:
Origin:
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Function:
Origin:
Aspergillus Ferment
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Dipropylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Gluceth-20
Function:
Origin:
Water
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Trehalose
Function:
Origin:
Lactobacillus
Function:
Origin:
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Trideceth-10
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Tromethamine
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Tropolone
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Coptis Japonica Extract
Function:
Origin:
Arginine
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
Calcium Carbonate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Adenosine
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Dextrin
Function:
Origin:
Glycine
Function:
Origin:
Serine
Function:
Origin:
Glutamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Aspartic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Leucine
Function:
Origin:
Alanine
Function:
Origin:
Lysine
Function:
Origin:
Tyrosine
Function:
Origin:
Phenylalanine
Function:
Origin:
Proline
Function:
Origin:
Threonine
Function:
Origin:
Valine
Function:
Origin:
Isoleucine
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Histidine
Function:
Origin:
Methionine
Function:
Origin:
Cysteine
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
32.5
22
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 32.5 10
10.0
22
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
22
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 32.5 10
10
All humectants
32.5
22
3
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0.4
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Adenosine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.8 3 No
All antioxidants
1.8
Niacinamide
0.3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
0.3
Lactobacillus
0.3
Tropolone
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Cysteine
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
40
22
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 62.9 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
62.9
40
22
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Bifida Ferment Lysate
Est. %40
Function
Origin
Bifida Ferment LysateA mixture of probiotic bacteria. According to the patent holder, it contains enzymes that are able to repair damaged DNA in skin cells. A single study confirms that it is able to reduce skin sensitivity.
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Est. %22
Function
Origin
Saccharomyces Ferment FiltrateA yeast mixture that contains humectant moisturizing amino acids, nucleic acids (building blocks of DNA), peptides, various minerals, and vitamins.
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Est. %11
Function
Origin
Betula Platyphylla Japonica JuiceA fresh sap obtained from the Asian white birch. It contains various antioxidant compounds and is claimed to promote hair growth.
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Aspergillus Ferment
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Aspergillus Ferment
Glycerin
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Dipropylene Glycol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Dipropylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid that has several uses. One of its main functions is as a solvent. Dipropylene glycol is also used to reduce the thickness of skincare products.
Methyl Gluceth-20
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Methyl Gluceth-20A humectant synthetically derived from glucose. It takes on the form of a clear, syrupy liquid.
Water
Est. %1
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Betaine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

An antioxidant green tea extract. In the deeper layers, it slows down the destruction of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid – thus delaying the signs of aging. It also acts as an anti-acne, soothing, moisturizing, and emollient ingredient.

Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Trehalose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TrehaloseA sweet-tasting saccharide that can be found in various yeasts and fungi and that is manufactured from starch for cosmetic purposes. It is one of the most popular sugars in skincare and is mainly used for its humectant properties.
Lactobacillus
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LactobacillusA genus of probiotic bacteria. Lactobacillus bacteria are part of the human microflora and their ferment products contain antioxidants.
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilA white paste-like substance derived from castor oil that belongs to a group of ingredients called PEGs (polyethylene glycols). It acts as a perfume solubilizer that helps fragrance agents dissolve in water and as a cleansing agent.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Trideceth-10
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trideceth-10
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Tromethamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TromethamineAn ingredient based on amino acids that is commonly used as a pH adjuster. It has a high pH, which means that it is basic (alkaline), so adding tromethamine to a skincare product will increase its overall pH level.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Tropolone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TropoloneA naturally occurring ingredient with unusual molecular structure that fights free radicals.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Coptis Japonica Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Coptis Japonica Extract
Arginine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ArginineA humectant amino acid used to attract water to the skin’s surface. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Arginine can also be used as a pH adjuster.
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypropyl MethylcelluloseA natural viscosity controlling agent that is commonly used in skin cleansing products to thicken the consistency. It also functions as an emulsion stabilizing agent and binding agent.
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrogenated LecithinA version of plain lecithin that has been saturated with hydrogen atoms. This ingredient can be derived from plants, like soy or sunflower, from egg yolks, or made synthetically. Its major function is to emulsify water and oils.
Calcium Carbonate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Calcium Carbonate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Adenosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Adenosine

A key molecule responsible for energy transportation, signaling, and enzyme activity. Adenosine is a popular anti-wrinkle ingredient, however, the key study about its anti-wrinkle efficacy (1) does not meet CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards as it is not double-blind.

Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Dextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DextrinA partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.
Glycine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycineA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. Some recent studies suggest that it may have barrier repair properties.
Serine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SerineA non-essential amino acid, meaning that our body can produce it. It is the largest constituent of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and is used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient.
Glutamic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glutamic AcidA non-essential amino acid that serves as a building block for all proteins in the body. It is a moisturizing humectant and a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of amino acids in skin cells that keeps them hydrated.
Aspartic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aspartic AcidA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. It helps to retain water on the skin’s surface and is slightly acidic, thereby helping to balance the pH of a skincare product.
Leucine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LeucineA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. It helps to increase water content on the skin’s surface and is often used in conjunction with anti-pigmentation products.
Alanine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlanineA simple amino acid used in skincare as a humectant moisturizing ingredient. It is a part of the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor, a complex mixture of free amino acids and other water-soluble compounds found in skin cells.
Lysine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LysineA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. It is slightly alkaline and helps to balance the product's pH. It may have a slightly fishy smell.
Tyrosine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenylalanineAn essential amino acid used in the treatment of vitiligo and other pigmentation issues. It is considered less effective than other anti-pigment ingredients and is often used in combination with them.
Proline
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ProlineThe best humectant moisturizer of all the amino acids. It is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and increases hydration in the top layers of the skin. It also has antioxidant activity and helps to heal damaged skin.
Threonine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ThreonineAn essential amino acid that may play a role in collagen production. However, more research is needed in order to confirm or deny these claims.
Valine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ValineAn essential amino acid (meaning our body cannot make it on its own and we get it from food instead). Like some other amino acids, Valine is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor.
Isoleucine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
IsoleucineA humectant moisturizing, essential amino acid that is a part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. It helps to increase water content on the skin’s surface and can increase the barrier repair effects of ceramides.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Histidine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HistidineA humectant moisturizing amino acid with weak antioxidant effects that is a part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor. It can attract water to the skin’s surface and is slightly alkaline, thereby helping to balance a product's pH.
Methionine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethionineMethionine is a sulfur-containing amino acid that is a part of all the proteins in the body. It supports hair growth, but other than that there isn't much information about its functions in personal care products.
Cysteine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CysteineA multifunctional amino acid that acts as a reducing agent and an antioxidant.