Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment

Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment
5.4
/ 10
Moisturizing
9.1 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.6 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.2Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle

Review

Does Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment:

  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.2 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.6 out of 10 and a very high humectancy of 9.1 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Glycerin (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients. It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

Such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Some anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 2.2 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈1.5%), 
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment also contains Retinyl Propionate, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Retinyl Propionate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Isopropyl Myristate
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Cetyl Alcohol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Hexylresorcinol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Retinyl Propionate
Function:
Origin:
Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Palmitic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Phospholipids
Function:
Origin:
Lecithin
Function:
Origin:
BHT
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
9.1
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 9.1 10
9.1
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
3.0
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
All humectants 9.1 10
9.1
All humectants
9.1
4
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
3
0.3
All occlusives 3.3 20
1.6
All occlusives
3.3
3.0
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 1.5 2.2
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
2.2
Niacinamide
2.2
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
1.5
Retinyl Propionate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 2.7 3 No
All antioxidants
2.7
Niacinamide
1.5
Hexylresorcinol
0.3
Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
0.3
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
0.3
BHT
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
1.5
All soothing 1.5 5 No
All soothing
1.5
1.5
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Isopropyl Myristate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Isopropyl MyristateA fast-spreading, cost-effective, non-greasy emollient that is typically used for lubrication, spreadability, or to remove “tackiness” from a product. Isopropyl Myristate is listed as a common comedogenic ingredient by acne.org.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Glycerin
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Niacinamide
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Pentylene Glycol
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA synthetic ingredient that is used to thicken water and alcohol. It results in a more lightweight formula and is commonly found in gel products.
Cetyl Alcohol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cetyl AlcoholA waxy solid fatty alcohol derived from palm oil. It is most commonly used as a co-emulsifier and affects the final aesthetic of the product, leaving a soft and silky feeling on the skin. Cetyl alcohol is also used as a viscosity controlling agent.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Hexylresorcinol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HexylresorcinolA synthetic compound. It is an anti-pigment ingredient that has been shown to be effective in inhibiting tyrosinase activity.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Retinyl Propionate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Retinyl PropionateAn esterified vitamin A that has better stability and, according to studies, works just as well as retinol in anti-aging and acne-reducing products. It speeds up skin cell regeneration and boosts collagen production.
Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateAn antioxidant that protects vulnerable ingredients from the damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, which can also lead to the generation of damaging free radical species.
Potassium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium HydroxideA very alkaline ingredient, meaning that it has a high pH. Potassium hydroxide is therefore useful in bringing a low pH in a cosmetic product up to a more neutral, skin-safe level.
Palmitic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitic AcidA saturated fatty acid used in skincare as a strongly occlusive moisturizer and barrier repairing, emollient ingredient. It is a waxy-looking, white solid. Palmitic acid can be commonly found in animal and vegetable fats, notably palm oil.
Phospholipids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhospholipidsA large group of lipids that are an essential component of every single cell membrane in the body. They have excellent emollient properties. Phospholipids are also utilized in the manufacturing of ‘fancy’ formulations such as liposomes.
Lecithin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LecithinA humectant, emollient, and emulsifier best suited for water-in-oil emulsions. Lecithin can come from sunflowers, soy, and eggs. The downside to lecithin is that it causes an extra burden on the formula’s preservative because it is nutritious.
BHT
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BHTAn antioxidant ingredient that naturally occurs in green algae and some bacteria or fungi but, for commercial use, is created synthetically. BHT is also used occasionally as a fragrance, where it presents a sweet, camphor-like odor.