EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer Review

EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer
4.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
7.2 Humectancy icon Humectancy
1.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
6Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer has to offer:
 
  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.2 out of 10.
  • Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10, EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer is effective in minimizing wrinkles.
  • Soothing: EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer:
 

Lightweight Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 1.2 out of 10 and a high humectancy of 7.2 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It can also be a good option for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Significant Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer has a high anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%), 
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
Among others, EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer also contains contains Caffeine and Ascorbyl Palmitate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈4.0%) and Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract (est. ≈2.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Pros & Cons of EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of EltaMD, Inc AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing enhancement for any skincare routine
  • Delivers signficant anti-wrinkle efficacy
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution
  • Contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help reduce irritation and soothe the skin

Cons: 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Cyclopentasiloxane
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone
Function:
Origin:
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Chloride
Function:
Origin:
Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Caffeine
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Function:
Origin:
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Capryloyl Glycine
Function:
Origin:
Undecylenoyl Glycine
Function:
Origin:
Disodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
7.2
4
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
2.5
2.5
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 7.2 10
7.2
4
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 2.5 20
1.2
2.5
Moisturizing rating
4.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 7.2 10
7.2
All humectants
7.2
4
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
2.5
All occlusives 2.5 20
1.2
All occlusives
2.5
2.5
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 4 6
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
6
Niacinamide
6
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
4
Caffeine
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
6
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
4
1
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.6 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.6
Niacinamide
4
Sodium Hyaluronate
1
Caffeine
0.3
Ascorbyl Palmitate
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
4
2
0.3
All soothing 6.3 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
6.3
4
2
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Cyclopentasiloxane
Est. %9
Function
Origin
CyclopentasiloxaneA lightweight, fast-spreading emollient that leaves a very soft and silky after-feel on the skin. Supplied as a clear and colorless liquid, cyclopentasiloxane is often used as a solvent to dissolve other silicones in.
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Ethylhexyl IsononanoateA synthetic ester (simple oil) that does not feel greasy or heavy. It can also reduce the sticky or greasy feeling of other ingredients.
Niacinamide
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl DimethiconeA powerful emulsifier with the unique trait of being able to work in both oil- and silicone-based formulas. It can also function as a thickener in low concentrations.
Dimethicone
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
DimethiconeThe most common silicone in skincare. It forms a silky, smooth film on the skin’s surface and can help to prevent water loss. It also aids in wound healing and can treat and soften scars. Dimethicone is considered to be very safe for use.
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark ExtractA potent, soothing extract from the bark of the white willow. It has potent anti-inflammatory effects due to its salicin content. Tannins from the willow bark extract have astringent effects and can aid in the skin’s healing process.
Sodium Chloride
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Sodium Chloride

You’re definitely familiar with sodium chloride, even if you don’t think you are. It’s table salt! Salt works well with some cleansing ingredients (surfactants) to thicken them into gels. It also acts as a stabilizer for water-in-oil emulsions.

Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Caffeine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CaffeineAn antioxidant compound that is obtained from coffee and tea leaves. It increases the microcirculation of blood in the skin and is claimed to be able to reduce the appearance of orange peel skin (although the research is lacking).
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl PalmitateA form of vitamin C derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. It is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, Ascorbyl Palmitate lacks the studies to prove its anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 CrosspolymerA self-emulsifying surfactant, which means that it can help facilitate the formation of water-in-silicone emulsions. This results in lightweight formulas with a soft finish. It can also act as a film-former and thickener.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Capryloyl Glycine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Capryloyl GlycineA naturally-derived or synthetically produced multi-functional ingredient. As an anti-microbial it can act as part of a product's preservative system or reduce microbes on the skin that cause certain kinds of acne or dandruff.
Undecylenoyl Glycine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Undecylenoyl Glycine
Disodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium EDTAA synthetic chelator that helps to maintain the look and smell of a product by 'locking up' troublesome metal ions.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.