Dermarium Tricky Duet Review

Dermarium Tricky Duet
3.1
/ 10
Moisturizing
6.2 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Review

Does Dermarium Tricky Duet Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dermarium Tricky Duet has to offer:
 
  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 3.1 out of 10.

Key Benefits of Dermarium Tricky Duet

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermarium Tricky Duet:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizer Well-Suited for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermarium Tricky Duet is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 3.1 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a high humectancy of 6.2 out of 10, primarily due to Propylene Glycol (est. ≈1.9%), Betaine (est. ≈1.8%) and Sodium Lactate (est. ≈1.5%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is well-suited for oily skin, providing moderate hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Enhancement for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant enhancement will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dermarium Tricky Duet

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dermarium Tricky Duet to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using Dermarium Tricky Duet as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of Dermarium Tricky Duet

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dermarium Tricky Duet to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant moisturizing well-suited for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing enhancement for any skincare routine

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
80
6
2
1.9
1.8
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Alcohol Denat.
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Triethanolamine
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
o-Cymen-5-ol
Function:
Origin:
Menthol
Function:
Origin:
Methyl Lactate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
6.2
1.9
1.8
1.5
1
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
3.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 6.2 10
6.2
1.9
1.8
1.5
1
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
3.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
1.9
1.8
1.5
1
All humectants 6.2 10
6.2
All humectants
6.2
1.9
1.8
1.5
1
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
None
Total
0
None
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.3
0.3
All antioxidants 1.6 3 No
All antioxidants
1.6
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
1.3
o-Cymen-5-ol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
1.3
0.3
All soothing 3.6 5 No
All soothing
3.6
2
1.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %80
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Alcohol Denat.
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains additives that make it unsafe to consume. It is mainly used as a solvent and an antimicrobial agent. A major drawback to alcohol denat. is that it dries out the skin.

Salicylic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Propylene Glycol
Est. %1.9
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Betaine
Est. %1.8
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Sodium Lactate
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilA fragrant and antioxidant essential tea tree oil praised for its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. Tea tree oil helps to treat acne, inflamed skin, and small wounds. It might, however, cause allergies and skin irritations.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %1
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Triethanolamine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TriethanolamineA clear, colorless, and highly viscous liquid, this ingredient is an excellent pH adjuster. When it is necessary to neutralize an acidic solution or to generally increase the pH of a product, triethanolamine is a common choice.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
o-Cymen-5-ol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
o-Cymen-5-olA preservative related to chemicals found in the herb thyme. It has its own unique smell but is very effective even at small amounts.
Menthol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MentholA volatile compound isolated from peppermint oil. It causes a cooling sensation on the skin that can be very soothing. Menthol can also act as a topical painkiller. In more sensitive individuals, however, it may cause skin irritation or an allergy.
Methyl Lactate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Methyl Lactate