Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum Review

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.3 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants
Review

Does Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum has to offer:
 
✅ Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
✅ Antioxidant protection

  

Key Benefits of Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum:
 

🔵 Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.3 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Butylene Glycol (est. ≈4.0%) and Ethoxydiglycol (est. ≈3.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

💧 A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

🍀 Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract (est. ≈1.5%), Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate (est. ≈0.3%), Sodium Hyaluronate (est. ≈0.3%), and others.

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

📌 Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum to your skincare routine:
 

⚠️ If It’s an Exfoliator, It May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Lactic Acid

This product contains lactic acid, a popular AHA known for its ability to gently exfoliate and brighten the skin. It works by removing dead skin cells, revealing new, more delicate skin that is more vulnerable to sun damage.

In smaller quantities, lactic acid is often used as a pH adjuster and may not significantly contribute to exfoliation. However, at higher concentrations, it functions as an effective exfoliant with benefits and risks similar to other AHAs. Products with AHAs, including lactic acid, may increase skin sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

If this product is designed for exfoliation, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily is essential to protect your skin. Always check the label or the manufacturer’s website for specific usage instructions.

⚠️ Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy

If one of your main reasons for choosing Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, it currently has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, two ingredients often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.

While this does not categorically rule out the possibility that these ingredients may reduce wrinkles, their efficacy is not supported by convincing, vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical studies - at least none that were available to the CreamScan team at the time of publication.

Therefore, these ingredients do not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

📌 Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Pros & Cons of Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

🟩 Pros:

✅ When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
✅ As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
✅ Lightweight texture
✅ Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
 

⭕ Cons: 

⚠️ Questionable anti-wrinkle efficacy
   

Summary: Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

 
Based on the ingredient list analysis, CreamScan AI suggests that Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum
, when used alone, delivers lightweight, humectant-rich moisturizing, making it ideal for oily skin. As part of a moisturizing routine, it provides a humectant boost, beneficial for all skin types.
 
With its high antioxidant content, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum helps protect against free radical damage and offers multiple benefits for all skin types, including preventing premature aging, defending against environmental damage, and calming inflammation.
 
That said, there are some things about Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum worth noting.
 
If one of your main reasons for considering Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum is its potential anti-aging effects, please note that, according to CreamScan analysis, its anti-wrinkle efficacy is questionable. None of the ingredients in this product provide substantial evidence of their anti-wrinkle efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards.
 
📌 Fact check. At CreamScan, we are committed to accuracy and fairness. If you spot any errors or something that doesn’t seem right, please click here to let us know. We regularly update the ingredient lists and monitor the latest research on ingredient efficacy to ensure that our information remains as complete and precise as possible. The information provided here is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional advice. We do not guarantee the efficacy or safety of any product, as individual results may vary.

 

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Function:
Origin:
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Trehalose
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate-13
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Polyisobutene
Function:
Origin:
Methylpropanediol
Function:
Origin:
Carrageenan
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
20.2
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 20.2 10
10.0
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.6 20
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 20.2 10
10
All humectants
20.2
6
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.6 20
0.3
All occlusives
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
0
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 3 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
3
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
1.5
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
0.3
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
All soothing 0.3 5 No
All soothing
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Lactic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Salvia Hispanica Seed ExtractAn extract from Chia seeds that contains emollient seed oil and humectant moisturizing amino acids and polysaccharides. The latter forms water-binding mucilage. Organic acids and flavonoids have antioxidant properties.
Sodium PCA
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

A small synthetic peptide that signals the skin to produce more collagen. It has been clinically tested and proven to reduce skin roughness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphateOne of the most recent vitamin C derivatives. Although the manufacturer claims it has all the powers of ascorbic acid (e.g., it is collagen-boosting and able to treat hyperpigmentation), this has not been proven in scientific studies.
Trehalose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TrehaloseA sweet-tasting saccharide that can be found in various yeasts and fungi and that is manufactured from starch for cosmetic purposes. It is one of the most popular sugars in skincare and is mainly used for its humectant properties.
Polyacrylate-13
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate-13A synthetic, film-forming ingredient that creates a network around other ingredients in the formula and protects them from being easily washed away.
Propanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

A fragrant essential oil obtained from pomelo peels - sometimes mislabeled as grapefruit. The high limonene content is responsible for its citrusy scent. It may induce sun allergies in people sensitive to citrus fruits.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Polyisobutene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PolyisobuteneA highly viscous liquid that is used in lip gloss formulations to prolong wear time and add shimmer. Polyisobutene dramatically increases the thickness of skincare products it is added to.
Methylpropanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethylpropanediolMethylpropanediol is a unique glycol that contains two primary hydroxyl groups. That makes methylpropanediol a powerful humectant and an excellent solvent.
Carrageenan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CarrageenanA gum-like thickener derived from a species of red algae called Irish moss. It helps to form a soft film on the skin, and aids in stabilizing product forms.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl PolyacrylateA synthetic thickening polymer that can be used in a variety of product types. This polymer can feel lightweight but can also stand up to heavier ingredients in products like body butters.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Polysorbate 20
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Limonene

One of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.