Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum
5.4
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.9 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich
in Antioxidants

Review

Results you may expect from using Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.4 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.9 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈6.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%) and Butylene Glycol (est. ≈2.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum has a zero anti-wrinkle rating.

It contains Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, an ingredient marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not generate the anti-wrinkle rating.

Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Dermalogica Biolumin-C Night Restore Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (est. ≈1.3%), Hydroxyacetophenone (est. ≈1.0%), Ergothioneine (est. ≈0.3%), and others.

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
Water
6
Glycerin
4
Propanediol
3
Tranexamic Acid
2
Butylene Glycol
1.5
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1.3
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
1
Hydroxyacetophenone
0.3
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
0.3
Lactic Acid
0.3
Ergothioneine
0.3
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
0.3
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
0.3
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
0.3
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
0.3
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
0.3
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
0.3
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
0.3
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
0.3
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
0.3
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
0.3
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
0.3
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil
0.3
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Sodium PCA
0.3
Fructooligosaccharides
0.3
Bioflavonoids
0.3
Glycoproteins
0.3
Glycine
0.3
Squalane
0.3
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
0.3
Caprylyl Glycol
0.3
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
0.3
Cystine
0.3
Pentylene Glycol
0.3
Mannitol
0.3
Ergosterol
0.3
Xanthan Gum
0.3
Methylpropanediol
0.3
1,2-Hexanediol
0.3
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
0.3
Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer
0.3
Phytic Acid
0.3
Citric Acid
0.3
Sodium Hydroxide
0.3
Acacia Senegal Gum
0.3
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
0.3
Algin
0.3
Disodium Phosphate
0.3
Limonene
0.3
Citrus Species Peel Extract
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Tranexamic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Function:
Origin:
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyacetophenone
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Ergothioneine
Function:
Origin:
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
Function:
Origin:
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Function:
Origin:
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Function:
Origin:
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Function:
Origin:
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil
Function:
Origin:
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Fructooligosaccharides
Function:
Origin:
Bioflavonoids
Function:
Origin:
Glycoproteins
Function:
Origin:
Glycine
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Function:
Origin:
Cystine
Function:
Origin:
Pentylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Mannitol
Function:
Origin:
Ergosterol
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Methylpropanediol
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Function:
Origin:
Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:
Phytic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Citric Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Acacia Senegal Gum
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Function:
Origin:
Algin
Function:
Origin:
Disodium Phosphate
Function:
Origin:
Limonene
Function:
Origin:
Citrus Species Peel Extract
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
15.0
6
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
1.8
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 15.0 10
10.0
6
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 1.8 20
0.9
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.4
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 15.0 10
10
All humectants
15.0
6
4
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 1.8 20
0.9
All occlusives
1.8
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
n/a
- 1.3 -
Total
0
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 6.5 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
6.5
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
1.3
Hydroxyacetophenone
1
Ergothioneine
0.3
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
0.3
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
0.3
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
0.3
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
0.3
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
0.3
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Bioflavonoids
0.3
Glycoproteins
0.3
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
0.3
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
0.3
Cystine
0.3
Mannitol
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 1.2 5 No
All soothing
1.2
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Tranexamic Acid
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Tranexamic AcidA synthetic amino acid that is used as an astringent to stop the bleeding from small cuts. It also has proven anti-pigment and redness-reducing effects.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor oil-derived ingredient often used to incorporate small amounts of oil (such as a fragrance) into a water-based product. PEG-4 HCO is a gold-standard solubilizer and can be used in low amounts due to its ability to solubilize things so well.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphateOne of the most recent vitamin C derivatives. Although the manufacturer claims it has all the powers of ascorbic acid (e.g., it is collagen-boosting and able to treat hyperpigmentation), this has not been proven in scientific studies.
Hydroxyacetophenone
Est. %1
Function
Origin
HydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant compound that can be found in many plants, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It can boost the preservative action of other conservants.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Lactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Ergothioneine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ErgothioneineA naturally-occurring amino acid that functions as a powerful and versatile antioxidant.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilAn occlusive moisturizing oil expressed from soybeans. It does not leave an oily feeling on the skin due to its low content of saturated fatty acids. Glycine soja oil contains emollient fatty acids and a significant amount of antioxidants.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilA fatty oil expressed from sunflower seeds and one of the most commonly used oils in skincare. It has great emollient and occlusive moisturizing properties. Sunflower oil is one of the richest sources of vitamin E – an important skin antioxidant.
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel OilA fragrant essential oil expressed from the peels of mandarin. It contains up to 74% of limonene and other volatile compounds which create its sweet, mandarin aroma. It may induce sun allergies in people sensitive to citrus fruits.
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed OilA fatty oil extracted from the seeds of the castor bean plant with very unique fatty acid composition. It is used in skincare as an occlusive moisturizer and emollient that leaves the skin feeling soft and silky after application.
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chlorella Vulgaris ExtractA dried mass of tiny, single-cell green algae. It is widely used as a food source or dietary supplement since it is rich in proteins, amino acids, minerals, and vitamins. This dark green extract is used as an antioxidant agent in skincare.
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root ExtractAn antioxidant extract derived from carrots. It is a rich source of the orange-colored beta-carotene (pro-vitamin A). Carrot root extract is often added to skincare products that are aimed at providing a better suntan.
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Jojoba EstersAn occlusive moisturizing mixture of fatty acids and fatty alcohols obtained from jojoba oil. It is also used as a formula helper.
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root ExtractAn extract derived from chicory roots. It contains a large amount of humectant moisturizing polysaccharides and oligosaccharides.
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem ExtractA soothing and antioxidant extract from prickly pear succulent stems. These stems contain a cooling and anti-inflammatory watery gel that is similar to aloe.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit ExtractAn extract from the fruit of the sweet orange. It contains fragrant sweet orange essential oil, high amounts of antioxidant flavonoids (mainly hesperidin), and carotenoids – which give it the orange color.
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit ExtractA fragrant extract derived from grapefruit peels. It mainly contains essential oil and various antioxidant organic acids and flavonoids. Limonene is responsible for its citrusy scent.
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) OilA fragrant essential oil extracted from lime peels that is mostly comprised of limonene, pinene, terpinene, and terpineol - which give off a sweet citrusy scent.
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) GumA plant-based gum extracted from the seeds of guar or cluster bean. It is comprised of various polysaccharides and is used as a thickening and gelling agent.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Sodium PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Fructooligosaccharides
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
FructooligosaccharidesA derivative a fructose that moisturizes skin by drawing water to the surface of the skin.
Bioflavonoids
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
BioflavonoidsA mixture of plant-based compounds commonly referred to as flavonoids. Each flavonoid has slightly different properties, but overall they are potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds.
Glycoproteins
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycoproteinsA broad term indicating a specific type of proteins, most likely of animal origin.
Glycine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GlycineA humectant moisturizing amino acid that is a part of skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor. Some recent studies suggest that it may have barrier repair properties.
Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol PectinateDescription is coming soon
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-Carotene (CI 40800)An orange-red plant pigment with powerful antioxidant activity.
Cystine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
CystineA sulfur-containing amino acid with proven antioxidant and mild anti-pigment effects.
Pentylene Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Pentylene Glycol

A naturally or synthetically derived preservative that exhibits effective antifungal and antibacterial traits. It also acts as a booster for more traditional preservatives. Pentylene glycol can also serve as a moisturizing humectant and solvent.

Mannitol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MannitolA sweet-tasting, sugar-derived, humectant alcohol that can stabilize a skincare formula and offer some antioxidant and soothing properties.
Ergosterol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
ErgosterolDescription is coming soon
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Methylpropanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MethylpropanediolMethylpropanediol is a unique glycol that contains two primary hydroxyl groups. That makes methylpropanediol a powerful humectant and an excellent solvent.
1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateA biodegradable chelating agent that chemically captures the heavy metal ions naturally present in water and disarms their harmful effects.
Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Carbomer/Papain CrosspolymerDescription is coming soon
Phytic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phytic AcidPhytic acid is found in rice and is seen as a cousin of alpha-hydroxy acids. As a chelator, it can bind to certain metals that may cause discoloration in products or reduce the efficacy of other ingredients.
Citric Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citric AcidA gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Acacia Senegal Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Acacia Senegal GumA formula helper, also known as gum arabic, derived from the African Acacia tree. It is used in skincare formulas due to its good adhesive and film-forming properties.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A polymeric ingredient that works best in water-based formulas to create gel textures. It helps to stabilize emulsions and control viscosity.
Algin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AlginA plant-based ingredient that can form gels when added to water, so it can thicken water-based products. Algin serves as a binding agent, where it helps hold the other ingredients in the product together and prevents them from separating.
Disodium Phosphate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Disodium PhosphateAn inorganic ingredient primarily used in skincare products as a pH adjuster.
Limonene
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
LimoneneOne of the most used fragrances in skincare products. It is produced from the peels of citrus fruits and has a fresh, pleasant, citrusy smell. People who are sensitive to citrus should try to avoid it, or at least do a patch test before using it.
Citrus Species Peel Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Citrus Species Peel ExtractDescription is coming soon