Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster | Unbiased Skincare Efficacy Review by AI

Review

Does Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster work?

Based on the ingredient list analysis by CreamScan AI, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster:

Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. With an anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10, Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster is effective in minimizing wrinkles.

Soothing: Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

Antioxidant protection.

Lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin and a humectant boost for any skincare routine

According to CreamScan analysis, Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%), Glycerin (est. ≈3.0%) and Betaine (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Significant anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster has a high anti-wrinkle rating of 6.0 out of 10.

It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%),

one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in skin-protecting antioxidants

We estimate that Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin soothing and calming potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Balea Serum Beauty Expert Azelain Booster is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈5.0%) and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (est. ≈4.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Anti-Seborrheic
Fragrance
Preservative
Formula helpers

Other

Est. % The Estimated % is our algorithm-based assumption about an ingredient's concentration in a formula. Learn more The Estimated % is our algorithm-based assumption about an ingredient's concentration in a formula. Learn more	Ingredient	Origin	Functions
80	Water The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients. Water The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.	Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water. Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water.	Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Formula helper Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
5	Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Antioxidant, Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Antioxidant, Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Seborrheic Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Anti-Seborrheic Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis.
4	Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate A modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate A modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid.		Sebum Regulating, Sebum regulating agents reduce excess oil production in the skin. Sebum Regulating, Sebum regulating agents reduce excess oil production in the skin. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Anti-Pigmentation Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
3	Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
2	Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin. Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Formula helper Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
1.5	Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn. Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Formula helper Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Formula helper Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
1.3	Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin. Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
1	Xanthan Gum A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together. Xanthan Gum A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.	Formula helper Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Formula helper Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
0.3	Sodium Benzoate A preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective. Sodium Benzoate A preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Formula helper Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. Formula helper Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients.
0.3	Sodium Hydroxide An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin. Sodium Hydroxide An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
0.3	Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer. Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Moisturizing (Humectant) Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant) Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
0.3	Citric Acid A gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent. Citric Acid A gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.	Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Formula helper Chelating – deactivates harmful heavy metal ions. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. Formula helper Chelating – deactivates harmful heavy metal ions. pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.

Water

Function:

Origin:

Niacinamide

Function:

Origin:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Function:

Origin:

Glycerin

Function:

Origin:

Betaine

Function:

Origin:

1.5

Panthenol

Function:

Origin:

1.3

Lactic Acid

Function:

Origin:

Xanthan Gum

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Sodium Benzoate

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Sodium Hydroxide

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Pantolactone

Function:

Origin:

0.3

Citric Acid

Function:

Origin:

Ratings

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Betaine

Panthenol

1.5

Lactic Acid

1.3

Pantolactone

0.3

Benchmark

None

Benchmark

Moisturizing rating

5.0

Ingredient		Est. %	Benchmark Sciense based points to which we compare all humectants and all occlusives in a product to calculate its Humectancy and Occlusivity. Sciense based points to which we compare all humectants and all occlusives in a product to calculate its Humectancy and Occlusivity.	Raiting
Humectancy	All humectants	13.1	10	10.0
	Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	5
	Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	3
	Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin. Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.	2
	Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn. Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.	1.5
	Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin. Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.	1.3
	Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer. Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.	0.3
Occlusivity	All occlusives	0.0	20	0.0
	None
Moisturizing rating				5.0

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark According to various studies, a formula made up of 10% humectants will significantly increase skin hydration. Some studies also suggest that any further icrease in the consentration of humectants does not translate inty any more hydration and may even be dehydrating. To achieve maximum Humectancy, the product should have humectants with a total score of 10 and more. According to various studies, a formula made up of 10% humectants will significantly increase skin hydration. Some studies also suggest that any further icrease in the consentration of humectants does not translate inty any more hydration and may even be dehydrating. To achieve maximum Humectancy, the product should have humectants with a total score of 10 and more.	Humectancy
Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	5
Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective. Glycerin The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.	3
Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin. Betaine An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.	2
Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn. Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.	1.5
Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin. Lactic Acid The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.	1.3
Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer. Pantolactone A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.	0.3
All humectants	13.1	10	10

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Betaine

Panthenol

1.5

Lactic Acid

1.3

Pantolactone

0.3

Benchmark

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark The most occlusive product possible is 100% petrolatum (hello Vaseline Jelly). According to studies, hovewer, even 10% petrolatum can achieve almost the same mosturizing effect. The occlusive properties of petrolatum are at least twice as superior as other occlusive ingredients. This is why, in order to match the moisturizing efficacy of 10% petrolatum, a product needs to contain at least 20% of other occlusives. Our benchmark for maximum Occlusivity is 20 (and the petrolatum score is always doubled). The most occlusive product possible is 100% petrolatum (hello Vaseline Jelly). According to studies, hovewer, even 10% petrolatum can achieve almost the same mosturizing effect. The occlusive properties of petrolatum are at least twice as superior as other occlusive ingredients. This is why, in order to match the moisturizing efficacy of 10% petrolatum, a product needs to contain at least 20% of other occlusives. Our benchmark for maximum Occlusivity is 20 (and the petrolatum score is always doubled).	Occlusivity
None
All occlusives	0.0	20	0.0

None

Benchmark

Ingredient	Ingredient anti-wrinkle power Shows on a scale of 0-10 how effective an ingredient is at reducing wrinkles. Both the Reported Efficacy of the ingredient and the Strength of Evidence are taken into account. Shows on a scale of 0-10 how effective an ingredient is at reducing wrinkles. Both the Reported Efficacy of the ingredient and the Strength of Evidence are taken into account.	when present at, %	in this formula est. %	Rating
Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	6 /10	4	5	6
Total				6

Niacinamide

Ingredient anti-wrinkle power

6 /10

when present at, %

in this formula, est. %

Anti-wrinkle rating

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark It differs from one antioxidant ingredient to another, but, on average, the research suggests that topically applied antioxidants are effective in consentrations of 3% or above. Any product with a total antioxidant score of 3 or more is considered to be reach in antioxidants. It differs from one antioxidant ingredient to another, but, on average, the research suggests that topically applied antioxidants are effective in consentrations of 3% or above. Any product with a total antioxidant score of 3 or more is considered to be reach in antioxidants.	Rich in Antioxidants
Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	5
All antioxidants	5	3

Niacinamide

Benchmark

Ingredient	Est. %	Benchmark The effective concentration of soothing ingredients varies, but we consider a product rich in soothing ingredients if their estimated concentration is equal to or higher than 5%. The effective concentration of soothing ingredients varies, but we consider a product rich in soothing ingredients if their estimated concentration is equal to or higher than 5%.
Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy. Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.	5
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate A modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate A modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid.	4
Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn. Panthenol A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.	1.5
All soothing	10.5	5

Niacinamide

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Panthenol

1.5

Benchmark

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %	80
Function	Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
Origin	Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water. Naturally occurring These are ingredients initially present in nature, such as elements (Zinc, Gold, or Silver), minerals, or water.

The most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.

Niacinamide
Est. %	5
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Antioxidant, Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Antioxidant, Antioxidants reduce the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and prevent accelerated skin aging. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-wrinkle ingredients prevent the formation or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Anti-Acne, Anti-acne agents treat acne blemishes, blackheads, and whiteheads. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Seborrheic Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis. Anti-Seborrheic Anti-seborrheic ingredients help to treat seborrheic dermatitis.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Est. %	4
Function	Sebum Regulating, Sebum regulating agents reduce excess oil production in the skin. Sebum Regulating, Sebum regulating agents reduce excess oil production in the skin. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Anti-Pigmentation Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
Origin

A modified version of azelaic acid. It reduces signs of redness, hyperpigmentation, and stinging and burning, and is better tolerated, more effective, and more easily incorporated into creams than azelaic acid.

Glycerin
Est. %	3
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Emollient, Emollients fill the micro-cracks in the skin and leave it feeling soft and pleasant to the touch. Emollients are often mistakenly perceived as moisturizing ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent, Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Betaine
Est. %	2
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

An ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.

Panthenol
Est. %	1.5
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Soothing, Soothing ingredients reduce the signs of sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. This includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, anti-itch agents, and topical analgesics. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Barrier Repair, Barrier repair ingredients help to restore the healthy function of the skin’s lipid barrier. Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Antistatic, Antistatic – reduces electric charge buildup. Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients. Solvent Solvent – a liquid that dissolves other ingredients.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.

Lactic Acid
Est. %	1.3
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant), Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Anti-Pigmentation, Anti-pigmentation ingredients help to even skin tone by reducing the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic, All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.) Animal Ingredients derived from animals (including birds, fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects) or produced by animals (e.g. dairy- and egg-derived ingredients, bee products, silk, pearls, etc.)

The most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.

Xanthan Gum
Est. %	1
Function	Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Binding, Binding – bonds ingredients together. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsifying, Emulsifying – helps to mix water and oil together. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Emulsion Stabilizing, Emulsion stabilizing – increases the stability of a formula. Gel-Forming, Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Gel-Forming, Gel-forming – helps to create a gel by swelling. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product. Viscosity Controlling Viscosity controlling – changes the thickness of a product.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified. Biotech The biotech origin of the ingredient implies that it was made in a lab using cultured microorganisms (bacteria or fungi) and a substrate (e.g. through the fermentation process), and then extracted and/or purified.

A natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.

Sodium Benzoate
Est. %	0.3
Function	Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Fragrance, Fragrance ingredients add scent to a product or hide ('mask') the undesired aroma of other ingredients. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Preservative, Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in a product. Anticorrosive Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients. Anticorrosive Anticorrosive – softens the effects of harsh ingredients.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A preservative that usually works in combination with other preservatives. It has to be at low pH (<5.5) to be effective.

Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %	0.3
Function	Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. Denaturant, Denaturant – turns alcohol undrinkable. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Pantolactone
Est. %	0.3
Function	Moisturizing (Humectant) Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid). Moisturizing (Humectant) Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that draw moisture to the skin, either from deeper layers or from the environment (when it's humid).
Origin	Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A vitamin B5 derivative. Similar to panthenol, it has several benefits as an antioxidant and humectant. However, it is less reactive and therefore products can stay stable longer.

Citric Acid
Est. %	0.3
Function	Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Exfoliant, Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin via acid-based chemical reactions (e.g., AHA or BHA). Chelating, Chelating – deactivates harmful heavy metal ions. Chelating, Chelating – deactivates harmful heavy metal ions. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula. pH Adjuster pH adjuster – alters the pH level of a formula.
Origin	Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Botanical, Ingredients derived from plants, mosses, and lichens: extracts, oils, powders, juices and other types of processed plant materials. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure. Synthetic All kinds of ingredients formulated or produced by a chemical process, or those that have a chemical modification in their structure.

A gently exfoliating AHA that helps to remove the top layer of dead skin cells. In comparison to other AHAs, citric acid has been shown to be one of the least effective. It is also very commonly used as a stabilizing and pH-controlling agent.