Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum

Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum
5.2
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.3 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
3Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers

Review

Results you may expect from using Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum:

Based on the ingredient analysis by CreamScan, these are the key benefits you can expect from using Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum:

  • Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.
  • Some anti-wrinkle efficacy: Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 3.0 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

How moisturizing is it?

Quite moisturizing: Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum has a moisturizing rating of 5.2 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.3 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propylene Glycol (est. ≈6.0%).

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum has a slight anti-wrinkle rating of 3.0 out of 10. It contains one ingredient with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy: Asiaticoside (est. ≈0.3%), 
 derived from the plant Centella asiatica, an ingredient with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy confirmed by one study.
 
Among others, Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum also contains some ingredients marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles, specifically Centella Asiatica Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of these ingredients provide insufficient evidence of efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, these ingredients do not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, could deliver additional anti-wrinkle efficacy through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Antioxidant benefits

We estimate that Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Centella Asiatica Extract (est. ≈1.5%), Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract (est. ≈0.3%), Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract (est. ≈0.3%), and others.

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin soothing

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Azelaic Acid (est. ≈4.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
70
Water
6
Propylene Glycol
4
Azelaic Acid
3
Sodium Hydroxide
2
1,2-Hexanediol
1.5
Centella Asiatica Extract
1.3
Dipropylene Glycol
1
Butylene Glycol
0.3
Panthenol
0.3
Hydroxyethylcellulose
0.3
Glycerin
0.3
Ethylhexylglycerin
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
0.3
Salicylic Acid
0.3
Biosaccharide Gum-1
0.3
Allantoin
0.3
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Phormium Tenax Leaf Water
0.3
Succinic Acid
0.3
Totarol
0.3
Beta-Glucan
0.3
Dextrin
0.3
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract
0.3
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
0.3
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
0.3
Madecassoside
0.3
Asiaticoside
0.3
Asiatic Acid
0.3
Madecassic Acid
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Squalane
0.3
Zinc PCA
0.3
Chlorella Emersonii Extract
0.3
Ceramide NP
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
0.3
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Potassium Hyaluronate
0.3
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Propylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
1,2-Hexanediol
Function:
Origin:
Centella Asiatica Extract
Function:
Origin:
Dipropylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Function:
Origin:
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Phormium Tenax Leaf Water
Function:
Origin:
Succinic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Totarol
Function:
Origin:
Beta-Glucan
Function:
Origin:
Dextrin
Function:
Origin:
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract
Function:
Origin:
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Madecassoside
Function:
Origin:
Asiaticoside
Function:
Origin:
Asiatic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Madecassic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Tocopherol
Function:
Origin:
Squalane
Function:
Origin:
Zinc PCA
Function:
Origin:
Chlorella Emersonii Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ceramide NP
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Hyaluronic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Potassium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
11.5
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 11.5 10
10.0
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.6 20
0.3
0.3
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.2
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 11.5 10
10
All humectants
11.5
6
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
0.3
All occlusives 0.6 20
0.3
All occlusives
0.6
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
3 /10 0.1 0.3 3
n/a
- 1.5 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
3
Asiaticoside
3
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
3 /10
when present at, %
0.1
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Centella Asiatica Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
1.5
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Beta-Glucan
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Asiatic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Madecassic Acid
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.7 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.7
Centella Asiatica Extract
1.5
Asiaticoside
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
0.3
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Phormium Tenax Leaf Water
0.3
Totarol
0.3
Beta-Glucan
0.3
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract
0.3
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
0.3
Madecassoside
0.3
Tocopherol
0.3
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Hyaluronic Acid
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 8.2 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
8.2
4
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %70
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Propylene Glycol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Propylene GlycolA clear, thick, odorless liquid of synthetic origin. Its main function is to stabilize cosmetic products exposed to varying temperatures. It is also a moderately strong humectant with similar properties to glycerin.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

1,2-Hexanediol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
1,2-HexanediolA multi-functional formula helper. It is a well-studied preservtive against bacteria and can help pigments and fragrances disperse evenly in a formula.
Centella Asiatica Extract
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Centella Asiatica ExtractAn extract from the leaves of the Gotu kola. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It increases the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.
Dipropylene Glycol
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Dipropylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid that has several uses. One of its main functions is as a solvent. Dipropylene glycol is also used to reduce the thickness of skincare products.
Butylene Glycol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Butylene GlycolA clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melia Azadirachta Leaf ExtractAn antimicrobial and antioxidant extract derived from Neem leaves – an Indian traditional medicine. Neem leaves have been found to possess antibacterial and antifungal activity. It is also a prospective anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Biosaccharide Gum-1A polysaccharide with humectant moisturizing and soothing properties.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateA licorice root derivative with powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing activities. It is often used as a flavoring agent in lip products.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Melia Azadirachta Flower ExtractAn antioxidant extract derived from the flowers of the Indian lilac, also known as Neem. It is often used in traditional medicine in India. The Neem flower extracts contain limonoids, which are currently under research for their anti-pigment activity.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Phormium Tenax Leaf Water
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Phormium Tenax Leaf WaterDescription is coming soon
Succinic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Succinic AcidDescription is coming soon
Totarol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
TotarolAn effective antimicrobial and antioxidant bioactive compound that occurs naturally in cypress trees.
Beta-Glucan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Beta-GlucanA special polysaccharide obtained from cereals, mushrooms, yeast, bacteria, and some species of seaweed. It is a promising anti-wrinkle, wound healing, antioxidant, and moisturizing ingredient.
Dextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
DextrinA partially hydrolyzed potato starch, most commonly used as a viscosity controlling and binding agent. When dispersed into water, it can create textures ranging from a thick paste to a soft gel.
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract

An extract from cocoa beans or cocoa powder with lots of beneficial compounds such as stimulant caffeine, antioxidant and astringent flavanols, and tannins – which are responsible for its bitter taste.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Centella Asiatica Leaf ExtractA well-researched soothing, wound-healing, and promising anti-aging extract that is obtained from the leaves of the Gotu Kola.
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Centella Asiatica Root ExtractDescription is coming soon
Madecassoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MadecassosideAn isolated Gotu Kola compound. It helps to increase collagen and hyaluronic acid production in the skin and assists in wound healing.
Asiaticoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiaticoside

A Gotu Kola or Centella Asiatica derivative with confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Asiatic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Asiatic AcidA compound isolated from Gotu Kola, a promising anti-wrinkle medicinal plant from Southeast Asia. It is claimed to increase the production of collagen and help with the wound healing process.
Madecassic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Madecassic AcidAn isolated bioactive compound from Gotu Kola. It increases collagen and hyaluronic acid production in the skin and helps to treat wounds, scars, and burns.
Tocopherol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tocopherol

Simply another name for vitamin E. Tocopherol is a fantastic ingredient and especially beneficial for dry and inflamed skin. It has occlusive moisturizing, emollient, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties.

Squalane
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
SqualaneAn occlusive moisturizing and emollient compound that forms part of the skin’s sebum. The main source of squalane had always been shark liver. Now, however, it is manufactured synthetically or derived from plant oils, such as olive and peanut oil.
Zinc PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Zinc PCAA two-part ingredient: Zinc helps to control sebum and bacteria in acne-prone skin, while skin-identical PCA is a moisturizing humectant. Zinc PCA may even boost collagen production and so is researched as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Chlorella Emersonii Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Chlorella Emersonii ExtractDescription is coming soon
Ceramide NP
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ceramide NPAlso known as ceramide 3, it is the most common ceramide in our skin. It helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier and alleviate the symptoms of dry and cracked skin. Research has shown that skin suffering from conditions such as AD lacks ceramides.
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate DimethylsilanolDescription is coming soon
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidA smaller-molecule version of the regular hyaluronic acid. It is a powerful humectant that absorbs into the skin and offers moisturizing, smoothing, and anti-wrinkle effects. It is also slightly anti-inflammatory and displays subtle antioxidant properties.
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateA very small-molecule version of regular sodium hyaluronate. It is a powerful humectant skin-identical ingredient that absorbs into the skin and offers plumping, smoothing, and anti-wrinkle effects.
Hyaluronic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hyaluronic Acid

A potent, skin-identical humectant moisturizing ingredient that is able to bind water 1000 times its own weight. The anti-aging benefits of hyaluronic acid are due to its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

Potassium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Potassium HyaluronateDescription is coming soon
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronateDescription is coming soon
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerA modified version of regular hyaluronic acid. It attracts large volumes of water, thereby making it an effective humectant moisturizing ingredient.