Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial Review

Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial
5.1
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.2 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
5.3Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.
  • Considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy: Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial has an anti-wrinkle rating of 5.3 out of 10, indicating a moderate ability to reduce wrinkles.
  • Soothing: Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.
  • Antioxidant protection.

Key Benefits of Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial:
 

Lightweight Humectant Moisturizer Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.1 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Significantly more humectant. It has a low occlusivity of 0.2 out of 10 and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Glycerin (est. ≈9.0%), Propanediol (est. ≈3.0%) and Niacinamide (est. ≈2.5%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, offering significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with a minimal amount of occlusive ingredients.

It’s also a great choice for people with normal skin who prefer lightweight moisturizers.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Considerable Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial has a moderate anti-wrinkle rating of 5.3 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

  • Niacinamide (est. ≈2.5%),
     one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
  • Glycolic Acid (est. ≈6.0%),
     a highly effective ingredient in peelings but with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy in leave-on skincare products, as supported by a single clinical study. This study, involving 72 participants (Thibault et al.), demonstrated that a lotion with 5% GA reduced the fine wrinkling score by 6% after 34 days of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without GA).
Among others, Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial also contains Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, an ingredient often marketed as effective in reducing wrinkles. However, the studies supporting the anti-wrinkle claims of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate provide insufficient evidence of its efficacy according to CreamScan Research Evaluation Standards. Therefore, this ingredient does not contribute to the anti-wrinkle rating.
 
Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Niacinamide (est. ≈2.5%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Niacinamide (est. ≈2.5%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial to your skincare routine:
 

May Increase Skin Photosensitivity Due to Glycolic Acid

This product contains glycolic acid, a popular AHA known for its ability to exfoliate and brighten the skin. Its action works by removing dead skin cells, revealing new, more delicate skin that is particularly vulnerable to sun damage.

As a result, using products with glycolic acid, regardless of concentration, may increase the skin's sensitivity, making it more prone to sunburn or irritation when exposed to UV rays.

To counteract this increased sun sensitivity, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily to protect your skin during glycolic acid treatment.

Please always check the manufacturer's instructions for using the product, either on their website or product label.

Pros & Cons of Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of Allies Of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Provides considerable anti-wrinkle efficacy thanks to Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid
  • Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, specifically Niacinamide

Cons: 

  • May increase skin photosensitivity due to glycolic acid

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
60
9
6
4
3
2.5
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Glycolic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 20
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Butylene Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Silk
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Yogurt
Function:
Origin:
Lactic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Function:
Origin:
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Function:
Origin:
Honey
Function:
Origin:
Honey Extract
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3
Function:
Origin:
Physalis Angulata Extract
Function:
Origin:
Galactoarabinan
Function:
Origin:
Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract
Function:
Origin:
Dimethyl Sulfone
Function:
Origin:
Zymomonas Ferment Extract
Function:
Origin:
Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Function:
Origin:
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Function:
Origin:
Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Function:
Origin:
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Bisabolol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Function:
Origin:
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Caffeyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Gallyl Glucoside
Function:
Origin:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Lactate
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Gluconate
Function:
Origin:
Maltodextrin
Function:
Origin:
Sclerotium Gum
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Tetrasodium EDTA
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
22.2
9
3
2.5
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 22.2 10
10.0
9
3
2.5
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
0.3
Moisturizing rating
5.1
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
9
3
2.5
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 22.2 10
10
All humectants
22.2
9
3
2.5
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
0.3
All occlusives 0.3 20
0.2
All occlusives
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
6 /10 4 2.5 3.8
1.5 /10 5 6 1.5
n/a
- 0.3 -
Total
5.3
Niacinamide
3.8
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
2.5
Glycolic Acid
1.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
1.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
6
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
-
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
n/a
when present at, %
-
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
5.3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
2.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 5.2 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
5.2
Niacinamide
2.5
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Galactoarabinan
0.3
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
0.3
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
0.3
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
0.3
Caffeyl Glucoside
0.3
Gallyl Glucoside
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2.5
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 7 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
7
2.5
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %60
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Glycerin
Est. %9
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Glycolic Acid
Est. %6
Function
Origin
Glycolic Acid

The second most used AHA (after lactic acid) known for its potent exfoliating and smoothing effects. It increases skin cell turnover, which is beneficial for treating acne. When used in peels, glycolic acid has confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, though it is less effective in leave-on products like creams and serums.

Polysorbate 20
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 20A viscous, amber-colored liquid that functions as a solubilizer to disperse small amounts of oil into a large water phase. Polysorbate 20 is frequently used to solubilize fragrance oils into water-based emulsions.
Propanediol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Niacinamide
Est. %2.5
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Butylene Glycol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Butylene Glycol

A clear, colorless liquid humectant that draws moisture to the skin. The humectancy of butylene glycol, owed to its two hydroxyl groups, is quite considerable, although not as powerful as glycerin, which contains three hydroxyl groups.

Hydrolyzed Silk
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed SilkA moisturizing ingredient obtained from natural silk. Some studies have shown that hydrolyzed skin proteins have anti-inflammatory properties.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Yogurt
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Yogurt
Lactic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Lactic AcidThe most popular AHA in skincare and less irritating than glycolic acid. It can be naturally found in sour milk. It is a humectant moisturizing, pH stabilizing, and gently exfoliating ingredient, able to soften dry, cracked, and peeling skin.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A polymeric ingredient that works best in water-based formulas to create gel textures. It helps to stabilize emulsions and control viscosity.
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethyl IsosorbideA solvent for active ingredients that is claimed to help them better penetrate the outer layer of skin. It also helps to reduce the thickness of a product.
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea FermentThis is what you probably know as kombucha. It contains various B vitamins, organic acids, and phenolic compounds that have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Honey
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Honey

A supersaturated solution of sugars, proteins, vitamins, minerals, and bioactive compounds. It is used in skincare for its antimicrobial, emollient, moisturizing, and soothing properties.

Honey Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Honey ExtractAn extract obtained from honey that is comprised of proteins, minerals, and various bioactive compounds with antimicrobial, emollient, moisturizing humectant, and soothing properties.
Panthenol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Allantoin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3
Physalis Angulata Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Physalis Angulata Extract
Galactoarabinan
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
GalactoarabinanA plant polysaccharide with humectant moisturizing properties that is most commonly obtained from Larch trees. It consists of two simple sugars: galactose and arabinose.
Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract
Dimethyl Sulfone
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Dimethyl Sulfone
Zymomonas Ferment Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Zymomonas Ferment Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Ascophyllum Nodosum ExtractAn extract from brown sea algae, a rich source of gel-forming algae polysaccharides such as fucoids, alginate, and ascophyllan, as well as some antioxidant phenolic compounds and minerals.
Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Bisabolol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Bisabolol

An anti-inflammatory compound found naturally in German chamomile essential oil. It has a pleasant, sweet, and floral scent. Bisabolol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties but can cause an allergic reaction in more sensitive individuals.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateThe newest derivative of vitamin A with improved stability, less irritation, and (allegedly) direct vitamin A action. Studies recommend it for acne treatment and collagen-boosting effects.
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
Caffeyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caffeyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Gallyl Glucoside
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideA natural occlusive moisturizing and emollient ingredient, it is a blend of glycerin and two fatty acids, caprylic and capric acid. It creates an oil-based protective layer on the skin, thereby preventing water loss.
Sodium Lactate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium LactateA sodium salt of lactic acid. Its main function is as a humectant but it can also serve as a pH adjuster. Additionally, sodium lactate can also be used as a chemical exfoliant due to its close chemical relation to lactic acid.
Sodium Gluconate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium GluconateA chelating ingredient that ensures that the harmful metal ions in a formula are unreactive. It also protects other ingredients from degrading.
Maltodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MaltodextrinA formula helper manufactured from starch. It has a sweet flavor and is often used in rinse-off products to support their foaming structure. Maltodextrin is also used to stabilize emulsions and to absorb and bind other ingredients in the formula.
Sclerotium Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sclerotium GumA thickener with a silky, velvety feel that many manufacturers use as an alternative to silicones.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerA synthetic humectant moisturizer often paired with glycerin. It also functions as a viscosity-controlling agent that creates gel-like formulas with thicker textures.
Tetrasodium EDTA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Tetrasodium EDTAOne of the most common synthetic chelators. It can reduce the 'hardness' of water and so is often used in rinse-off products.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.