The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum Review

The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum
4.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
8.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
2.9Anti-wrinkle icon/ 10
Anti-wrinkle
Rich
in Antioxidants
Ingredients

The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum Ingredients

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Full Ingredient List (INCI):

Water, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Magnesium Sulfate, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Niacinamide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Sodium PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Review

Does The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum has to offer:
 
Moderate moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.
✅ Modest anti-wrinkle efficacy: The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum has an anti-wrinkle rating of 2.9 out of 10 so you may expect some, although limited, effect on wrinkles.
✅ Antioxidant protection

  

Key Benefits of The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum:
 

🔵 Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 4.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a very high humectancy of 8.0 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Ethoxydiglycol (est. ≈3.0%) and Panthenol (est. ≈2.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

📌 Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

💧 A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

🟣 Modest Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

According to CreamScan analysis, The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum has a modest level of anti-wrinkle efficacy, rated 2.9 out of 10.

It contains 2 active ingredients with proven anti-wrinkle efficacy:

1️⃣ Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈20.0%),
 or Vitamin C, a popular ingredient, yet with moderate anti-wrinkle efficacy, as confirmed by a single clinical study involving 20 participants (Humbert et al.). This study showed that a cream with a relatively high concentration of 5% ascorbic acid reduced the average wrinkle depth by 7% after 6 months of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without ascorbic acid).
 
2️⃣ Niacinamide (est. ≈0.3%),
 one of the most effective and well-researched anti-wrinkle ingredients. A clinical study involving 30 participants (Kawada et al.) confirmed that a cream with 4% niacinamide reduced the average depth of wrinkles around the eyes by 9% after 8 weeks of use, compared to a vehicle (the same formulation without niacinamide).
 
📌 Moisturizers, when used regularly, are proven to prevent wrinkle formation and even reduce existing wrinkles. Therefore, this product, like any other moisturizer, can deliver some additional anti-wrinkle effects through its moisturizing action.
 

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the anti-wrinkle rating calculation.

🍀 Rich in Skin-Protecting Antioxidants

We estimate that The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum is rich (> 3%) in antioxidants, specifically Ascorbic Acid (est. ≈20.0%) and Tocopheryl Acetate (est. ≈4.0%).

A key benefit of antioxidants is their ability to reduce oxidative stress caused by free radicals and therefore prevent accelerated skin aging. Studies also show that antioxidants can protect against environmental damage such as UV radiation and pollution, and help reduce inflammation and skin redness.

📌 Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum

 
CreamScan identified a few things to consider before adding The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum to your skincare routine:
 

⚠️ If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

🟩 Pros:

✅ When used alone: Provides humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
✅ As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing boost, beneficial for any skin type
✅ Lightweight texture
Offers modest anti-wrinkle efficacy
✅ Rich in antioxidants that combat oxidative stress associated with accelerated skin aging and defend against environmental damage
 

⭕ Cons: 

⚠️ Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants
   

Summary: The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum

 
Based on the ingredient list analysis, CreamScan AI suggests that The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum
, when used alone, delivers lightweight, humectant-rich moisturizing, making it ideal for oily skin. As part of a moisturizing routine, it provides a humectant boost, beneficial for all skin types.
 
The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum contains ingredients with proven evidence of anti-wrinkle efficacy that may provide a modest anti-wrinkle effect. As a result, you can expect a positive, though not very significant, impact on wrinkles.
 
With its high antioxidant content, The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum helps protect against free radical damage and offers multiple benefits for all skin types, including preventing premature aging, defending against environmental damage, and calming inflammation.
 
That said, there are some things about The Raw Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 20% Serum worth noting.
 
Looking at its moisturizing profile, we found that it doesn’t contain any occlusive ingredients, potentially allowing the moisture attracted to the skin by humectants to evaporate. Therefore, if it’s used as the only moisturizer in a routine, it’s recommended to pair it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones.
 
📌 Fact check. At CreamScan, we are committed to accuracy and fairness. If you spot any errors or something that doesn’t seem right, please click here to let us know. We regularly update the ingredient lists and monitor the latest research on ingredient efficacy to ensure that our information remains as complete and precise as possible. The information provided here is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional advice. We do not guarantee the efficacy or safety of any product, as individual results may vary.

 

Ingredient Breakdown

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
65
20
4
3
2
1.5
1.3
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Ascorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Tocopheryl Acetate
Function:
Origin:
Ethoxydiglycol
Function:
Origin:
Panthenol
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Magnesium Sulfate
Function:
Origin:
Ferulic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Niacinamide
Function:
Origin:
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Function:
Origin:
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Function:
Origin:
Sodium PCA
Function:
Origin:
Caprylyl Glycol
Function:
Origin:
Sorbic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
8.0
3
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
4.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 8.0 10
8.0
3
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
4.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
3
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All humectants 8.0 10
8
All humectants
8.0
3
2
1.5
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
2.5 /10 5 20 2.5
6 /10 4 0.3 0.4
Total
2.9
Ascorbic Acid
2.5
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
2.5 /10
when present at, %
5
in this formula, est. %
20
Niacinamide
0.4
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
6 /10
when present at, %
4
in this formula, est. %
0.3
Anti-wrinkle rating
2.9
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
20
4
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
All antioxidants 26.2 3 Rich in antioxidants
All antioxidants
26.2
Ascorbic Acid
20
Tocopheryl Acetate
4
Ferulic Acid
1
Niacinamide
0.3
Sodium Hyaluronate
0.3
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
0.3
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
All soothing 2.9 5 No
All soothing
2.9
2
0.3
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %65
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Ascorbic Acid
Est. %20
Function
Origin
Ascorbic Acid

Also known as vitamin C, this multi-benefit ingredient has proven anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-pigmentation efficacy. It degrades easily when exposed to air and light, so it requires proper packaging to maintain its stability.

Tocopheryl Acetate
Est. %4
Function
Origin
Tocopheryl Acetate

An antioxidant derivative of tocopherol (vitamin E). It helps to protect cells from free radicals and UV damage through the conversion to active vitamin E in the skin. It is more stable than tocopherol.

Ethoxydiglycol
Est. %3
Function
Origin
EthoxydiglycolA type of alcohol with humectant moisturizing properties. It also acts as a solvent, since it mixes well with a variety of other compounds, including water and even some oils.
Panthenol
Est. %2
Function
Origin
PanthenolA popular soothing and moisturizing derivative of vitamin B5. Panthenol is particularly beneficial for dry, flaking, burned, or damaged skin. It is used to alleviate the symptoms of a rash, dermatitis, eczema, chapped lips, and sunburn.
Glycerin
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Magnesium Sulfate
Est. %1.3
Function
Origin
Magnesium SulfateA naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used in skincare products as a bulking agent. It helps to control the viscosity of products by making them thicker.
Ferulic Acid
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Ferulic AcidA plant-based phenolic acid with powerful and scientifically proven antioxidant properties. It enhances the effects of vitamins C and E, as well as the UV protective effects of sunscreens.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Niacinamide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true superstar with confirmed moisturizing, anti-acne, hyperpigmentation, and antioxidant benefits. Two studies confirm its significant anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractAn extract from the licorice root. It contains a well-researched anti-inflammatory compound called glycyrrhizin that can reduce inflammation. Licorice root extract is also used for its powerful antioxidant effects and ability to treat pigmentation.
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Leontopodium Alpinum ExtractAn extract from a beautiful alpine plant called Edelweiss. It contains a rare compound called leontopodic acid with antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Sodium PCA
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium PCAOne of the most important parts of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, a mixture of various compounds that keeps the skin’s surface well hydrated. Sodium PCA is used in skincare for its fantastic humectant properties.
Caprylyl Glycol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Caprylyl GlycolAn emollient that improves product spreadability and offers a silky feel on the skin. It also acts as a preservative booster that improves the efficacy of other preservatives. According to the manufacturer, it is also a humectant moisturizer.
Sorbic Acid
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbic AcidAn organic acid that can be naturally found in the berries of the Mountain ash, although it is manufactured synthetically for skincare purposes. It is used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent, protecting a skincare product from spoiling.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.