The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Review

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum
5.0
/ 10
Moisturizing
10.0 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Review

Does The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum has to offer:
 
  • Strong humectant moisturizing. This lightweight, humectant-rich product, ideal for oily skin, has a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Key Benefits of The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizing, Ideal for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum is quite moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 5.0 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? It is purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a maximum humectancy of 10 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈6.0%) and Betaine (est. ≈4.0%).

This humectant-rich product, when used alone as a moisturizer, is ideal for oily skin, providing significant hydration in a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Boost for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - such a humectant boost will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer. This type of formulation is typically used in serums, where a light, fast-absorbing texture is key.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • Humectant-rich moisturizing ideal for oily skin
  • Lightweight texture
  • A humectant moisturizing boost for any skincare routine

Cons: 

  • Needs occlusives to seal in humectants if used as a standalone moisturizer

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
80
6
4
2
1.9
1.5
1
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Betaine
Function:
Origin:
Salicylic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hyaluronate
Function:
Origin:
Zinc PCA
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Function:
Origin:
Maltodextrin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Function:
Origin:
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
14.0
6
4
1.9
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 14.0 10
10.0
6
4
1.9
1.5
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
5.0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
6
4
1.9
1.5
0.3
0.3
All humectants 14.0 10
10
All humectants
14.0
6
4
1.9
1.5
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
None
Total
0
None
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
1.9
All antioxidants 1.9 3 No
All antioxidants
1.9
Sodium Hyaluronate
1.9
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
2
0.3
All soothing 2.3 5 No
All soothing
2.3
2
0.3
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %80
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Propanediol
Est. %6
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Betaine
Est. %4
Function
Origin
BetaineAn ingredient derived from the sucrose in sugar beets. It has a negative chemical charge and a positive chemical charge on the same molecule. This allows betaine to be hygroscopic or humectant and thus provide moisturization by drawing water to the skin.
Salicylic Acid
Est. %2
Function
Origin
Salicylic AcidThis effective peeling and anti-inflammatory BHA is used as an anti-acne agent and works by breaking down the junctions between dead skin cells. This results in the peeling of dead skin and the unclogging of pores.
Sodium Hyaluronate
Est. %1.9
Function
Origin
Sodium Hyaluronate

A sodium salt of famous hyaluronic acid. A potent humectant that hydrates the skin, supports collagen function, and fills out small wrinkles. Sodium hyaluronate also offers soothing and antioxidant properties.

Zinc PCA
Est. %1.5
Function
Origin
Zinc PCAA two-part ingredient: Zinc helps to control sebum and bacteria in acne-prone skin, while skin-identical PCA is a moisturizing humectant. Zinc PCA may even boost collagen production and so is researched as a potential anti-wrinkle ingredient.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Est. %1
Function
Origin
HydroxyethylcelluloseA naturally-derived thickener that can form clear gel textures without the slimy feeling, unlike some other natural gel-formers.
Maltodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MaltodextrinA formula helper manufactured from starch. It has a sweet flavor and is often used in rinse-off products to support their foaming structure. Maltodextrin is also used to stabilize emulsions and to absorb and bind other ingredients in the formula.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Biosaccharide Gum-1A polysaccharide with humectant moisturizing and soothing properties.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA chelating agent that disables harmful heavy metal ions present in skincare.