The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief Review

The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief
2.8
/ 10
Moisturizing
5.6 Humectancy icon Humectancy
0.0 Occlusivity icon Occlusivity
Rich Skin Soothing icon
in Skin Soothers
Review

Does The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief Work?

 
According to CreamScan AI's analysis of the ingredient list, here’s what The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief has to offer:
 
  • Light moisturizing. It has a moisturizing rating of 2.8 out of 10.
  • Soothing: The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, which may help to reduce irritation and calm the skin.

Key Benefits of The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief

 
These are the key benefits you can expect from using The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief:
 

Lightweight Purely Humectant Moisturizer Suitable for Oily Skin

According to CreamScan analysis, The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief is lightly moisturizing, with a moisturizing rating of 2.8 out of 10.

Is it more humectant or occlusive? Purely humectant. It has zero occlusivity (we didn't find any occlusive ingredients on the ingredient list) and a moderate humectancy of 5.6 out of 10, primarily due to the high content of Propanediol (est. ≈4.0%).

This product, when used alone as a moisturizer, can provide light humectant hydration in a fast-absorbing formula without any occlusive ingredients. This could work for people with oily skin who need a basic level of hydration.

Tip: Certain studies suggest that humectants alone may not effectively moisturize the skin. If you use this product as your only moisturizer, we recommend following it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients.

A Humectant Add-on for Any Skincare Routine

But it’s not limited to oily skin - since it contains a moderate amount of humectants, such a humectant add-on will also positively contribute to the moisturizing efficacy of any skincare routine when used as a step before applying the main moisturizer.

Please refer to the Ratings section below for details of the moisturizing rating calculation.

Skin Soothing and Calming Potential

Based on the ingredient list analysis, The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief is rich (> 5%) in soothing ingredients, particularly Azelaic Acid (est. ≈10.0%).

When applied to the skin, compounds of soothing ingredients, such as triglycerides, phospholipids, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants, work together to soothe the skin through various mechanisms: reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, repairing the skin barrier, and providing antimicrobial and antioxidant activities.

Please note that this is not a complete list of benefits. We are in the process of enhancing our AI model to incorporate anti-pigmentation, exfoliation and anti-acne ratings.

Things to Be Aware Of: The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief

 
CreamScan AI identified a few things to consider before adding The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief to your skincare routine:
 

If It’s Your Only Moisturizer, It Needs to Be Paired with Some Occlusives

While humectants are highly effective at attracting water to the skin, studies (J. N. Kraft, C. W. Lynde) suggest they may not be efficient when used alone.

One major drawback of purely humectant moisturization is that the water attracted by humectants to the upper layers of the skin can evaporate completely into the environment through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Adding occlusive ingredients helps seal this moisture into the skin and prevent further water loss.

If you’re using The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief as your only moisturizer, consider pairing it with one that contains at least some occlusive ingredients, such as oils, butters, or silicones. These work alongside humectants to create a protective barrier, locking in hydration and ensuring longer-lasting moisturization. The amount of occlusive needed depends on your skin type - the drier the skin, the more occlusives it requires.

If this product is used not as a standalone moisturizer but as part of your skincare routine, such as a toner or serum, it should be applied before your main moisturizer (unless it's a sunscreen), which will provide the necessary occlusivity on top of it.

Pros & Cons of The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief

 
Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of The INKEY List Azelaic Acid 10% for Redness Relief to help you decide if it’s the right choice for your skincare routine:
 

Pros:

  • When used alone: Provides moderate humectant moisturizing suitable for oily skin
  • As part of a routine: A humectant moisturizing enhancement, beneficial for any skin type
  • Lightweight texture
  • Potentially soothing, as it contains a high concentration of soothing ingredients, specifically Azelaic Acid

Cons: 

  • Only if used as a standalone moisturizer - it needs to be paired with occlusives to seal in humectants

Ingredients

Est. % Ingredient Origin Functions
75
10
4
3
1
1
1
1
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
Est. %
Water
Function:
Origin:
Azelaic Acid
Function:
Origin:
Propanediol
Function:
Origin:
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Function:
Origin:
Phenoxyethanol
Function:
Origin:
Acacia Senegal Gum
Function:
Origin:
Xanthan Gum
Function:
Origin:
Allantoin
Function:
Origin:
Glycerin
Function:
Origin:
Ethylhexylglycerin
Function:
Origin:
Polysorbate 60
Function:
Origin:
Sorbitan Isostearate
Function:
Origin:
Maltodextrin
Function:
Origin:
Sodium Hydroxide
Function:
Origin:
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Function:
Origin:
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Function:
Origin:
Polylysine
Function:
Origin:

Ratings

All humectants
5.6
4
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Moisturizing rating
2.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Raiting
Humectancy All humectants 5.6 10
5.6
4
1
0.3
0.3
Occlusivity All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
None
Moisturizing rating
2.8
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Humectancy
4
1
0.3
0.3
All humectants 5.6 10
5.6
All humectants
5.6
4
1
0.3
0.3
Benchmark
10
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark Occlusivity
None
All occlusives 0.0 20
0.0
All occlusives
0.0
None
Benchmark
20
Ingredient
Ingredient anti-wrinkle power
when present at, %
in this formula est. %
Rating
None
Total
0
None
Anti-wrinkle rating
0
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Antioxidants
0.3
All antioxidants 0.3 3 No
All antioxidants
0.3
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
0.3
Benchmark
3
Ingredient Est. % Benchmark
Rich in Soothing
10
1
All soothing 11 5 Rich in soothing
All soothing
11
10
1
Benchmark
5

Ingredients explained

Water
Est. %75
Function
Origin
WaterThe most used ingredient in skincare. Its concentration defines the product texture: rich creams may have about 50% of water while a light jelly about 90%. Water doesn’t moisturize the skin by itself and is used in skincare as a solvent for other ingredients.
Azelaic Acid
Est. %10
Function
Origin
Azelaic AcidA powerful dermatological ingredient that helps to treat acne and various pigmentation issues. It appears both in medicated creams and regular skincare. It reduces redness and inflammation but can be irritating in high concentrations.
Propanediol
Est. %4
Function
Origin
PropanediolAn excellent solvent capable of mixing water with normally water-insoluble ingredients. It also functions as a humectant due to its water-loving alcohol groups. Propanediol can control the viscosity of a product by reducing its thickness.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Est. %3
Function
Origin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAn emulsion stabilizer and thickener that helps to create a pleasant, satiny, and light formula texture. It works by forming a gel-like network within water or oil, which both stabilizes other ingredients and produces a thickening effect.
Phenoxyethanol
Est. %1
Function
Origin
PhenoxyethanolThe most frequently used preservative in skincare. It is a clear, oil-like liquid synthetic substance that protects products from harmful bacteria and yeast, whilst still leaving skin microflora unharmed. It is confirmed by research to be harmless.
Acacia Senegal Gum
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Acacia Senegal GumA formula helper, also known as gum arabic, derived from the African Acacia tree. It is used in skincare formulas due to its good adhesive and film-forming properties.
Xanthan Gum
Est. %1
Function
Origin
Xanthan GumA natural multi-functional ingredient that originates from fermented sugars. Xanthan gum acts as a viscosity-building agent to thicken skincare products. It is also an excellent stabilizer and works well to hold other ingredients together.
Allantoin
Est. %1
Function
Origin
AllantoinA fluffy, white powder that acts as a humectant due to its water-loving chemistry and as an exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. It has also been shown to be very soothing to irritated and inflamed skin.
Glycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Glycerin

The most popular moisturizing ingredient in the world. It is a powerful humectant – cheap yet very effective.

Ethylhexylglycerin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
EthylhexylglycerinA preservative booster derived from glycerin. It is commonly paired with other preservatives to improve their efficacy. Ethylhexylglycerin is also a humectant due to its chemical base of glycerin.
Polysorbate 60
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polysorbate 60An ester based on sorbitan. It is good for emulsifying water and oils together – specifically making oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 60 is also said to give a product a notable fragrance.
Sorbitan Isostearate
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sorbitan IsostearateA mild yet powerful emulsifier primarily utilized to produce water-in-oil emulsions. It helps to create a particularly rich and substantial emulsion.
Maltodextrin
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
MaltodextrinA formula helper manufactured from starch. It has a sweet flavor and is often used in rinse-off products to support their foaming structure. Maltodextrin is also used to stabilize emulsions and to absorb and bind other ingredients in the formula.
Sodium Hydroxide
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Sodium Hydroxide

An ingredient that is able to bring the pH of a product up, thereby making it less harsh on the skin.

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Gardenia Florida Fruit ExtractDerived from the dark orange fruits of a Chinese flowering shrub called Gardenia florida, this extract acts as a yellow pigment.
Polylysine
Est. %0.3
Function
Origin
Polylysine